Stripped O2 sensor bolt. Suggestions?

amalik

Senior Member
Electrical clip came out OK. First bolt came off OK (The left one in the picture). But of course... why would a job on a 3rd gen go smoothly? The second bolt was either stripped before I started, or I stripped it. Either way, it doesn't want to turn at all.

IMG_0089.JPG


My plan is to try a pipe wrench I have, but I'm not banking on that too much as the length of the tool will make it difficult to even use given how tight the work area is when dealing with these bolts.

Any other thoughts? You can't really sawzall the damn nut off because the bolt thread is welded to the damn exhaust pipe. It would be much easier if it was part of the sensor itself.

Any creative thoughts?
 
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What are the odds of getting that whole exhaust pipe off? then you'd have access to do whatever you gotta do.

If you did sawzall the whole thing off, would there definitely be a big exhaust leak with only one fastener?

if you got the whole pipe off, you could do something like this?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqNcBkLvptg

good luck brother
 
Come to think of it... I actually have a Dremel 200 with a small metal wheel cutter. I might be able to cut off just the bolt without impacting the thread.
 
Electrical clip came out OK. First bolt came off OK (The left one in the picture). But of course... why would a job on a 3rd gen go smoothly? The second bolt was either stripped before I started, or I stripped it. Either way, it doesn't want to turn at all.

Those are not bolts holding the o2 sensor. They are nuts threaded onto studs that are integral with your exhaust.

If I was faced with this I would get out my cordless Dremel with a cutoff wheel and carefully cut the nut in half. Then, I would grab the appropriate die and clean up the threads before reassembling. You may want to consider purchasing a pair of copper clad nuts to use so the job will be easier next time.

Good luck!
 
Those are not bolts holding the o2 sensor. They are nuts threaded onto studs that are integral with your exhaust.

If I was faced with this I would get out my cordless Dremel with a cutoff wheel and carefully cut the nut in half. Then, I would grab the appropriate die and clean up the threads before reassembling. You may want to consider purchasing a pair of copper clad nuts to use so the job will be easier next time.

Good luck!

This is exactly my plan; except my Dremel 200 is not cordless ;) -- I will report back here when done trying.

Do you know what size copper clad nuts would work? Any reason I shouldn't go OEM nuts again? Definitely want to use new ones.
 
had that happen when i changed o2 sensor on mine. Used a fluted stripped nut/bolt extractor over nut and it came right off. Can pick them up at sears or someplace similar. replaced nut with new, some anti seize on it and good to go. No cutting required.

matt
 
Also had to deal w this. I sprayed down w liquid wrench and used the locking pliers to get them off. Pipe wrench would work but not enough space.
 
Electrical clip came out OK. First bolt came off OK (The left one in the picture). But of course... why would a job on a 3rd gen go smoothly? The second bolt was either stripped before I started, or I stripped it. Either way, it doesn't want to turn at all.

IMG_0089.JPG


My plan is to try a pipe wrench I have, but I'm not banking on that too much as the length of the tool will make it difficult to even use given how tight the work area is when dealing with these bolts.

Any other thoughts? You can't really sawzall the damn nut off because the bolt thread is welded to the damn exhaust pipe. It would be much easier if it was part of the sensor itself.

Any creative thoughts?
Apply "PB blaster" Penetrating Catalyst Lubricant , let it soak in deep for 30 min or so.
From there 1/4 inch wood chisel applied to corner of nut & some hammer taps will break nut free then finger spin

.
 
If the pair of channel locks or the chisel (I'd use a cold chisel instead of a wood chisel) suggestion don't do it, I'd try either this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=lp_2225074011_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1426613354&sr=1-3

Or a nut-splitter:
Amazon.com: OTC 4576 Universal C-Frame Nut Splitter: Automotive

Good luck!

Instead of channel locks I would go with a needle nosed vise grips and crank down on that sucker. Maybe heat the nut only with a torch first (before the highly flammable PB blaster)

Then I would try the dremel but you have to be careful not to jack up the threads on the stud.
 
If the pair of channel locks or the chisel (I'd use a cold chisel instead of a wood chisel) suggestion don't do it, I'd try either this: Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece: Power & Hand Tools

Or a nut-splitter:
Amazon.com: OTC 4576 Universal C-Frame Nut Splitter: Automotive

Good luck!
Both chisels will work.
Ive found Wood chisel to be more effective in past experiences. It has more tip give gripping into nut they become one.

+1 on nut-splitter

OP
99.0% chance PB Blast/Chisel combo will work.
 
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Instead of channel locks I would go with a needle nosed vise grips and crank down on that sucker. Maybe heat the nut only with a torch first (before the highly flammable PB blaster)

Then I would try the dremel but you have to be careful not to jack up the threads on the stud.

Vise grips is a good thought. A dremel would be really far down on my list of tools to try because of the likelihood of screwing up the threads. A nut splitter would achieve the same result with almost no chance of buggering up the threads.
 
The stud is a lot harder than the nut. I found using a mini-Vise Grip (5-inch?) to crush the nut and then bashing on smaller and smaller cheap Chinese sockets worked well to get it off in pieces. Then wire brush to clean up the studs. Confirm that nuts are stainless M8-1.25. Also clean the mating flange well, as a leak will pop codes. Mine were uglier and I got it done. Almost time for round 2 for me.
 
Appreciate all the feedback guys. I have a few different size chisel's in the toolbox. Will try it out with a hammer after PB-Blasting and report back. Can probably try tomorrow, a bit busy today.
 
I would not use a Dremel tool, as there is a good chance of screwing up the threads on the stud.

A little heat on the corroded nut from a torch, and then if it's in bad enough shape that a wrench or socket won't easily work, clamp some vise grips on it and try to turn it. Usually they will loosen and come off with that technique.
 
Vise grips is a good thought. A dremel would be really far down on my list of tools to try because of the likelihood of screwing up the threads. A nut splitter would achieve the same result with almost no chance of buggering up the threads.

I kept reading post after post with all these complex idea's and mean while my heads screaming VICE GRIPS. Glad someone saved me from going crazy.

Get some large vice grips and smash them on tight, if you cant do it by hand slide a bar over them and crank on it. It will come loose. pb blaster like other have said can help, spray every hour for a day lol
 
I've got one of those studs that's stripped. Any suggestions other than penetrating lube, a torch, and stud extractor?
 
I kept reading post after post with all these complex idea's and mean while my heads screaming VICE GRIPS. Glad someone saved me from going crazy.

Get some large vice grips and smash them on tight, if you cant do it by hand slide a bar over them and crank on it. It will come loose. pb blaster like other have said can help, spray every hour for a day lol

Yea, vice grips/locking pliers worked for me.
 

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