Strong fuel smell from under hood and blower vents, see no leak.

[89FourRunner]

My 89 3.0 is rather stinky these days. It seems that I can smell furl through the blower when the vent is set to open, also, especially when the truck is shut off - I can smell fuel from under the hood (through the gap in the hood and fender). I see no leaks. I cant see any fuel on the injectors on the drivers side, but the passenger side is covered up by the plenum of course, cant see those. Fuel lines look dry, what else should I be looking for? Is there a common area for leaks or anything?

 

[91'4bee]

My guess is to pull the plenum and have a look see on the passanger side injectors. Gas though evaporates rather quickly in a hot engine bay so there is that to consider.

Gas mileage been any worse?

Good luck

 

[89FourRunner]

My gas mileage has always been pretty bad. Seems about the same though.

 

[NJshadow93]

My 89 3.0 is rather stinky these days. It seems that I can smell furl through the blower when the vent is set to open, also, especially when the truck is shut off - I can smell fuel from under the hood (through the gap in the hood and fender). I see no leaks. I cant see any fuel on the injectors on the drivers side, but the passenger side is covered up by the plenum of course, cant see those. Fuel lines look dry, what else should I be looking for? Is there a common area for leaks or anything?

Just went through this with my '86 MR2. Check the vapor canister/charcoal canister. That's where the fuel tank vents to. If any of the lines are disconnected or blocked, it won't work as it should and the raw fuel vapor will leak. If they don't leak out and the canister or hoses are blocked, it will likely build positive pressure in your fuel tank so it's a good idea to check the canister and any associated lines/hoses.

 

[89FourRunner]

Just went through this with my '86 MR2. Check the vapor canister/charcoal canister. That's where the fuel tank vents to. If any of the lines are disconnected or blocked, it won't work as it should and the raw fuel vapor will leak. If they don't leak out and the canister or hoses are blocked, it will likely build positive pressure in your fuel tank so it's a good idea to check the canister and any associated lines/hoses.

I'll check thanks.

 

[89FourRunner]

So i checked all the fuel lines running from the tank to the engine, and cannot seem to find a leak. I did a sniff test and the entire gas smell seems to be coming from behind the battery in the engine compartment, or at least on that side of the engine (passenger side) above the fender well. The charcoal canister is right there, but I have no experience with it.

Also, where is the fuel filter location on the V6?

Any ideas?

 

[NJshadow93]

So i checked all the fuel lines running from the tank to the engine, and cannot seem to find a leak. I did a sniff test and the entire gas smell seems to be coming from behind the battery in the engine compartment, or at least on that side of the engine (passenger side) above the fender well. The charcoal canister is right there, but I have no experience with it.

Also, where is the fuel filter location on the V6?

Any ideas?

The charcoal canister has a valve inside that opens and closes to vent the fuel vapors. If that valve fails you would likely experience here symptoms. There are easy ways to test the canister, or at least just pull the rubber hoses to make sure there's no blockage in them. Sometimes dirt, bugs, or rust can build up and block the hoses. If they're clean then I would look into testing or replacing the canister. In my case the valve in the canister likely failed so rust built up where the main vent hose attaches to the nipple on the canister. Found a used one for $30 in good working condition, cleaned the hose and popped the new one on, problem solved in about 20 minutes.

 

[opennotajar]

check the fuel pressure pulsation damper. Just had to replace mine. have to remove upper plenum and some fuel lines to remove it. part is around $100 depending on where you get it from.

 

[89FourRunner]

check the fuel pressure pulsation damper. Just had to replace mine. have to remove upper plenum and some fuel lines to remove it. part is around $100 depending on where you get it from.

I was afraid that it might be this, but I cannot tell as I cannot see it. Easy way to see or feel it with plenum on?

 

[89FourRunner]

The charcoal canister has a valve inside that opens and closes to vent the fuel vapors. If that valve fails you would likely experience here symptoms. There are easy ways to test the canister, or at least just pull the rubber hoses to make sure there's no blockage in them. Sometimes dirt, bugs, or rust can build up and block the hoses. If they're clean then I would look into testing or replacing the canister. In my case the valve in the canister likely failed so rust built up where the main vent hose attaches to the nipple on the canister. Found a used one for $30 in good working condition, cleaned the hose and popped the new one on, problem solved in about 20 minutes.

The canister's "from tank" line, the soft part of the line that connects to the top of the canister seems to be under pressure. The bottom vent line seems clean and fine, I checked its end that goes into the frame too.

When I remove my gas cap I get a lot of suction or hiss. Even if I take the cap off, and put it back on and run the truck for just a minute, and take the cap off again it has a heavy hiss from suction.

Does any of this help?

Its a cheap auto zone gas cap, Ive been running it for a year. Ive always had a check engine light - so I'm not sure if it contributes to this problem.

i'm taking a good look at everything because both the canister and the PPD are really expensive.

 

[opennotajar]

I was afraid that it might be this, but I cannot tell as I cannot see it. Easy way to see or feel it with plenum on?

if you reach up the middle part of the plenum and slide your hand underneath it, in between the fire wall, you should see if its leaking gas. or get your phone and take a video from the passenger side to look at the part.

I attached a photo pointing to where it is if it helps.

 

[89FourRunner]

if you reach up the middle part of the plenum and slide your hand underneath it, in between the fire wall, you should see if its leaking gas. or get your phone and take a video from the passenger side to look at the part.

I attached a photo pointing to where it is if it helps.

I tried to reach down in where the arrow is but there is no way I can feel or see anything in there. I don't know what I'm feeling around for, I can't even find the fuel rail but thanks. I am going to try again, pic is very helpful.

 

[89FourRunner]

Okay I got my fingers on the dampener…and it is leaking…. yippie.

No way I am spending $150 on this thing from toyota, I have to take my chances on the aftermarket..

 

[NJshadow93]

The canister's "from tank" line, the soft part of the line that connects to the top of the canister seems to be under pressure. The bottom vent line seems clean and fine, I checked its end that goes into the frame too.

When I remove my gas cap I get a lot of suction or hiss. Even if I take the cap off, and put it back on and run the truck for just a minute, and take the cap off again it has a heavy hiss from suction.

Does any of this help?

Its a cheap auto zone gas cap, Ive been running it for a year. Ive always had a check engine light - so I'm not sure if it contributes to this problem.

i'm taking a good look at everything because both the canister and the PPD are really expensive.

Exactly what happened with my car, it would hiss when I took the gas cap off, I could even hear my gas tank popping because of the release of pressure. When I took the top hose off of the canister (and gas cap back on) the pressure was also released, indicating excessive build up. Haven't had a problem since I replaced the canister.

 

[89FourRunner]

The big problem is, this is my daily driver - and I am losing money until the part arrives and is installed.

It's not leaking fuel or dripping fuel, its just wet with fuel.

Could I still drive the thing? Has anyone taken that chance? I'd hate to burn this truck to the ground as I put a lot of time and effort into it bringing it back to its former glory. hahahahaha.

 

[junkyardbiker]

yeah i dont know about driving it, a member on here not too long ago had a first gen burn to ground when he drove it home from buying it. better safe than sorry!

 

[91'4bee]

My buddies datsun had a leaking #2 cylinder. He told me its been smelling like fuel since he got it (less than a year ago) and thought it was normal for an old car. It was dumping fuel on the intake manifold bad...it didnt light before I fixed it but then again I personally wouldnt chance it for a LONG while. I think you be ok for a bit (I understand it being your daily).

Good luck

 

[89FourRunner]

The job is done.

The part I used was Standard Motor Products Part # FPD6 and it worked out really well and was a little over $75, as opposed to the Toyota OEM which was $150.

I was able to avoid damaging that green part that the vacuum lines go into behind the damper, and I had just enough clearance to remove the damper by simply removing the top vacuum hose from that unit.

The standard motor products replacement was only slightly different in design, as the bolt head did not have an elevated step for the crush washer as the OEM one does, but the crush washer still aligned itself well, and the truck is leak free and running great.

My intake plenum gasket was in good shape so now I have a spare as I did not use the new one. I did have to get some gas line crush washers for that cross line above the damper, as it needed to be removed. If anyone ever needs the part # for those I have it handy.

You guys have all been a great help in this. Trucks running great.

 

[RiFF RaFF]

The job is done.

The part I used was Standard Motor Products Part # FPD6 and it worked out really well and was a little over $75, as opposed to the Toyota OEM which was $150.

I was able to avoid damaging that green part that the vacuum lines go into behind the damper, and I had just enough clearance to remove the damper by simply removing the top vacuum hose from that unit.

The standard motor products replacement was only slightly different in design, as the bolt head did not have an elevated step for the crush washer as the OEM one does, but the crush washer still aligned itself well, and the truck is leak free and running great.

My intake plenum gasket was in good shape so now I have a spare as I did not use the new one. I did have to get some gas line crush washers for that cross line above the damper, as it needed to be removed. If anyone ever needs the part # for those I have it handy.

You guys have all been a great help in this. Trucks running great.

I love a happy ending, but where's the pictures?

:gossip: