Stuck! Can't get alternator back in.

[Monty87ls]

So I was going to replace the whole tensioner but I decided to just do the pulley and see if that fixed my issue, mainly because I currently can only work on a gravel driveway and its cold today!


Anyway I went to throw the alternator back in which is aftermarket and was replaced by the previous owner. It will not go back onto the tensioner. O even tried out of the vehicle and there is a little lip preventing it. I dont even know how the guy got it on the first place. What am I missing?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[FrothyLlama]

So I was going to replace the whole tensioner but I decided to just do the pulley and see if that fixed my issue, mainly because I currently can only work on a gravel driveway and its cold today!


Anyway I went to throw the alternator back in which is aftermarket and was replaced by the previous owner. It will not go back onto the tensioner. O even tried out of the vehicle and there is a little lip preventing it. I dont even know how the guy got it on the first place. What am I missing?

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

Install it from the top and give it a few love taps with a hammer? I'm not familiar with the alternator but I am a helicopter mechanic and that's what I'd consider doing if I ran into an issue like that. Looks like the lip on the left would allow the lip on the right to give a little and slide over.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[DMV4runner]

Gravel drive way

OP: If you regularly work on your vehicle on a gravel driveway and have to crawl under it, consider purchasing a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 in plywood and cut it length wise in half. You can put that down to lay on it and keep the gravel and some of the cold away.
Use the other half of the plywood sheet to cut some 2x2 ft squares to use up under your jacks for stability on the gravel.
Always think safety when working on gravel. It can unstable.

Sorry I can't give any help with the alternator.

 

[pauldub]

Is that lip part of a bushing that can be pressed further out?

 

[importman]

Is that lip part of a bushing that can be pressed further out?

Yes it is. You can take a plastic mallet and tap it and it will move. It's designed that way. Makes it easy to install and when you tighten it up it will slide back out until it makes good contact.

 

[Monty87ls]

ok so thanks for the advice on the driveway, see I usually use my neighbors driveway but he just sold his house and new people moved in so i was stuck using mine. I am moving in a month or so and won't have this issue, I will still need plywood for under the jack stands though.

I didn't plan on doing this job yet I was gonna wait until I moved but the power steering pump starting to get worse and I figured while I had the belt off do the tensioner.

I have now discovered prior to coming back on here that is s sleeve that is designed to move unfortunately for me mine wouldn't move back. I tried hitting, heating, spraying tapping. Those are what I tried prior to going to the parts store for a new alternator.

Then I had the bright idea of using cutoff wheel to get it out of there.... Little bit of burnt belt and a frozen pulley later I put the new alternator in and all is good.

Power steering noise gone but I'm gonna do the idler pulleys when they come since one is really bad. I got the tensioner at the dealer but ordered everything else online because they are easier to swap out and the price as better.

 

[Nahrah]

ok so thanks for the advice on the driveway, see I usually use my neighbors driveway but he just sold his house and new people moved in so i was stuck using mine. I am moving in a month or so and won't have this issue, I will still need plywood for under the jack stands though.

I didn't plan on doing this job yet I was gonna wait until I moved but the power steering pump starting to get worse and I figured while I had the belt off do the tensioner.

I have now discovered prior to coming back on here that is s sleeve that is designed to move unfortunately for me mine wouldn't move back. I tried hitting, heating, spraying tapping. Those are what I tried prior to going to the parts store for a new alternator.

Then I had the bright idea of using cutoff wheel to get it out of there.... Little bit of burnt belt and a frozen pulley later I put the new alternator in and all is good.

Power steering noise gone but I'm gonna do the idler pulleys when they come since one is really bad. I got the tensioner at the dealer but ordered everything else online because they are easier to swap out and the price as better.

Rock auto has a belt drive kit that includes tensioner w/pulley, two idler pulley and a serpentine belt for $150-190. I had the dreaded metal to metal screeching noise and thought it was the tensioner pulley or idler pulley, but turned out to be the alternator pulley bearing were going bad. Ended up just using the tensioner pulley and idler pulley and got a new alternator.

 

[Monty87ls]

Rock auto has a belt drive kit that includes tensioner w/pulley, two idler pulley and a serpentine belt for $150-190. I had the dreaded metal to metal screeching noise and thought it was the tensioner pulley or idler pulley, but turned out to be the alternator pulley bearing were going bad. Ended up just using the tensioner pulley and idler pulley and got a new alternator.

Yeah I was gonna go with the Gates kit from them but in the end decided to go with OEM. All the other pulleys and the other goodies i ordered will be here today from McGeorge and my friend at the local dealer gave me wholesale price on the belt and tensioner, Its not quite as good as employee price like I used to get but I appreciate him helping me out.

Since the alternator didn't have the spacer (since i cut it off) the pulley wouldn't spin freely once tightened down which burned a bit off the belt but it still looks ok so I'm gonna leave it. Hopefully that's not mistake lol Im gonna keep the old one and my ratchet in the back just in case.

The #2 idler pulley is screaming at me.

 

[Monty87ls]

I can return the old alternator for $35 but the way I see it is the thing is still good so maybe hold on to it. Thus one fails after warranty i can swap the case on it and save money.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Marianne W]

We had the same problem when we replaced our alternator. We just used a file and took a little off at a time until it fit.

 

[Monty87ls]

We had the same problem when we replaced our alternator. We just used a file and took a little off at a time until it fit.

Thats a good idea I didn't think about. I was a tad stressed since it was slowly getting dark out and I wanted to get it done. All better now and today I did the rest of the pulleys. So quiet!

 

[ktom3001]

Yeah I was gonna go with the Gates kit from them but in the end decided to go with OEM. All the other pulleys and the other goodies i ordered will be here today from McGeorge and my friend at the local dealer gave me wholesale price on the belt and tensioner, Its not quite as good as employee price like I used to get but I appreciate him helping me out.

Since the alternator didn't have the spacer (since i cut it off) the pulley wouldn't spin freely once tightened down which burned a bit off the belt but it still looks ok so I'm gonna leave it. Hopefully that's not mistake lol Im gonna keep the old one and my ratchet in the back just in case.

The #2 idler pulley is screaming at me.

I went with the continental kit from Rock auto and it came with all the pulleys as well as the tensioner. All the bearings are Koyo.
I was doing a water pump and elected to only swap the pulley on the tensioner because it looked like it added several hours to an already long job.