Stuck lower balljoint

cj80cruiser

Senior Member
Trying to remove my lower balljoints but having a little trouble. I broke my balljoint separator so I rented a heavy duty pulled from autozone. Besides adding some heat does anybody have any tips or tricks I can use?
 
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Get a 5lb sledge. I'm assuming you can't get it to release from the lower control arm. Mine had 340k on them and I had to beat it a few times with a heavy sledge to get it to let go.
 
Try using the floor jack under the stud and load it up with the weight of the truck. Then use a pickle fork to bust it open. Once it pops it will stop once it hits the jack pad.

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Or
Torch the stud and hammer it out. The heat will break the rust bond.
 
If the puller you rented is the same as mine then once you get the right socket just crank away. If its still stuck get a break over bar and crank it that way. And if its still stuck add a cheater bar to the mix and you'll get some good power. I had to use a breaker bar and a 2 foot piece of steel tubing to get a bolt off my old Chevy once.
 
If the puller you rented is the same as mine then once you get the right socket just crank away. If its still stuck get a break over bar and crank it that way. And if its still stuck add a cheater bar to the mix and you'll get some good power. I had to use a breaker bar and a 2 foot piece of steel tubing to get a bolt off my old Chevy once.

I bought one for $15 for general future uses like the one spongerx used in his balljoint replacement thread. But I rented a heavy duty one for $90 because I didn't want to play around with this thing tomorrow.
 
Unless you are reusing the LBJ you guys are way over-thinking this! Loosen the nut off a few turn, smack the hell out of the LCA, and it will come right out.
 
Unless you are reusing the LBJ you guys are way over-thinking this! Loosen the nut off a few turn, smack the hell out of the LCA, and it will come right out.

Mine are froze up really bad like my upper ball joint was. Had to cut the lip off the pressed in sleeve with a torch just to get a 5 ton puller to finally push it out. I think I would dent the hell out of my LCA if I hit it hard enough to get this out. However, I may resort to this if I get pissed off enough tomorrow. :rant:
 
You can also hit the nut if you have a new one with the new balljoint. That's what I did with my OTR's since I didn't have a puller on hand that would fit.
 
SPRAY it with PB Blaster. That stuff works wonders.

Get it all around the LBJ, let it soak on there for a little while, then it should come out by either hitting it with a hammer, or a press.
 
has anyone ever heard of an impact? thats what i use when i cant bust stuff loose. with the right ball joint separator and an impact, you should have no problems
 
Not everyone has access to the air supply for an impact, or an impact itself. Yeah, you can get one of the battery operated ones, but those are expensive as hell.

Most of us are shade tree mechanics. The stuff we have isn't a whole hell of a lot. So, the best way is to use basic tools, such as a BFH and some penetrating oil(Tehehehe)..
 
you'd be surprise at what an electric impact will accomplish. I acutally like those more than the air impacts.
 
I'm not saying they can't accomplish anything, I'm simply saying that the majority of people have no need for one of those, and should honestly use it maybe once or twice, or sparingly.

The only thing I would use it for is to take the lugs off, but a 21mm and half inch breaker works just the same.

Just my .01
 
I'm not saying they can't accomplish anything, I'm simply saying that the majority of people have no need for one of those, and should honestly use it maybe once or twice, or sparingly.

The only thing I would use it for is to take the lugs off, but a 21mm and half inch breaker works just the same.

Just my .01

I used to think that. But no, it's not the same! ;):

Nothing like zipping out all the lug nuts in about 10 seconds. Install takes a bit longer than that, and of course you have to torque them...but I wouldn't trade my IR impact for a wrench. In fact, it made my LBJ job much easier.

Plus get an air hammer! Damn, that thing was priceless when I replaced my steering rack. I intend to use that quite a bit more in the future.
 
Try using the floor jack under the stud and load it up with the weight of the truck. Then use a pickle fork to bust it open. Once it pops it will stop once it hits the jack pad.



Or
Torch the stud and hammer it out. The heat will break the rust bond.

Unless you are reusing the LBJ you guys are way over-thinking this! Loosen the nut off a few turn, smack the hell out of the LCA, and it will come right out.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/92427-ball-joints-6.html#post916778

Singtoe posted a vid awhile back... not sure if this is the part you're having trouble with.

SPRAY it with PB Blaster. That stuff works wonders.

Get it all around the LBJ, let it soak on there for a little while, then it should come out by either hitting it with a hammer, or a press.

Used everybodies ideas and it finally gave way.

Heated the bolt, jacked up the suspension on the bolt, and hammered away until finally it released.

Thanks!
 
SPRAY it with PB Blaster. That stuff works wonders.

Get it all around the LBJ, let it soak on there for a little while, then it should come out by either hitting it with a hammer, or a press.

I understand the OP finally got it taken care of, but for anyone that searches this in the future - HEED THE ABOVE ADVICE. After years of working on salt coated cars in New England, repeated cycles of heat and PB blaster in the days leading up to the swap could prove to crack the friction that is holding the parts together. Obviously you need to give the PB time to evaporate before you add heat so you don't start a fire. That, combined with the stuff above should help avoid hammering on the suspension. Not good for parts.
 

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