Stupid water, stupid salt...

[Master Yoder]

Ok, this is a general question that relates to any car. Is there some kind of product I can buy to treat the metal under my 4Runner that will protect it from water and salt? I know you can take it to the shop and have it treated but I am more of a doo it yourself type person so I would really like it if I could just buy something and spray it on.

Whats the best way to keep the paint job in good shape? Wax it every few months? Any spefic brands that work the best?

Thanks.

 

[msanta]

I saw once in Autozone, a local auto parts store in New York, an aerosol can of undercoating(it looked like the tar they put under the cars to prevent corrosion). I used it in several areas I had in an old Camry for rust and kind of sound proofing! Don't know the name...

 

[khaug]

I'd be very cautious about this. Traditional tar-based mastic undercoating is notorious for hardening, cracking and pulling water into the cracks through capillary action. This promotes rust.

Here in the heart of the Rust Belt, all the old-time traditional rustproofers have pretty well gone out of business. The last vehicle I had done (1988, by Ziebart) developed rust in the bottom of the doors in just four years.

Consumers Union advises that you steer clear of rustproofing. IMHO, that's good advice. In the worst of winter, I make a point to keep the bottom of the vehicle clean of snow accumulation at a quarter car wash. We've kept opur last two Toyotas 5-6 years each, with no visible surface rust.

 

[fireteacher]

search POR-15 here or on the web

 

[Falls]

I think corrosionX makes products like this.

Do a gooogle search for it or Rejex and you should find something.

 

[pat161]

I agree with just keeping it clean. Wash it every week or every other week and get the underbody when you do it, and I advise washing the frame rails, not just rinsing them. My 00 Runner which spent 6 years in central MA had almost no rust on the underbody, granted I have a nice heated garage to wash it in, but you do what you need to.

 

[greasefingers]

I place a garden water sprinkler under my vehicle a few time each winter to remove salt.

 

[toto]

Since the 4Runner is made in Japan, it has to travel by boat to North America. In order to survive the trip through the humid and somewhat corrosive air, most metal surfaces on the bottom of the car are covered. My 06 4Runner is the first car I've had from Japan where they didn't use as much undercoating material for that purpose - instead, a lot of parts were painted with a special paint. Even the exhaust system was covered with some sort of clearcoat that burned off in the first 1000 miles.

So when you buy a car that's made overseas, you're already one step ahead of the rust as opposed to a car made in North America. They don't do it as a feature, but as a necessity to get it here without any visible rust.

 

[boston_kevin]

I would highly advise against the tar/bedliner coatings on the underbody. These products are notorious for cracking or developing small tears in the coating (through normal use) that allow water to permeate the lining and hold that water (and salt) against the metal for extended periods of time which can actually make the vehicle rust faster.

Find yourself a good automated, brushless car wash and plan to visit every two to three weeks during the winter (I pre-pay in the fall for a 25 wash pass for 32 vehicles).

 

[ilocan]

You can also rinse down the underside of your truck with this when washing the salt off:

http://www.gowesty.com/Merchant2/me...duct_Code=GVW-32M&Category_Code=ac-e-saltaway

I used this every other week during the winter when I was living in the east coast and it worked great.

 

[Master Yoder]

Cool thanks for all the info. I will check everything out and go from there, a lot of the car washes stay open during the winter so I might just give a good wash once a week.

When you wash under the car do you use soap or just blast it with water? Thanks.

 

[boston_kevin]

Most undercarriage washes use only water (which is fine). Make sure you know the source of the water being used at the car wash. Some recycle the water, which means you could be blasting with salt water if you don't choose wisely. Call up the manager and ask what is the water source, how do they handle the waste water, and is there a system in place to make sure the water is filtered before rinsing your car.

 

[greasefingers]

Salt is highly soluble in plain water. It is not necessary to use anything else. In fact, the solubility will decrease slightly with anything else added to water.

 

[Northof49]

Undercoat can be awesome stuff if you use the correct products. I undercoat all my vehicles for both the sound proofing and protection advantages. In addition, I've sprayed probably 100 vehicles for others and worked at a shop that has sprayed literally thousands....no problems so far. Lots of weather around here, and the Toyota dealer undercoats all new vehicles right off the truck.

What you want is a product that remains pliable and soft after sprayed. I haven't used much off-the-shelf product tho, so I have no idea what's available in your area. We always used Diamond Kote's Premium Sound Shield at the shop.....but always bought it in like a 25 gallon drum. Not sure what other sizes are available, but I can vouch that it's good stuff. It never hardens no matter how long it's on the vehicle.

Rustproofing is a different issue. The traditional stuff is an amber mist that looks like tree sap, the new wave are electronic "rust modules." The mist is proven for many years, but the downsides are that it's messy, tends to kill those who spray it, and (some brands) require re-application ever year or so. I have installed a few modules, and according to the module companies they work great. The oldest one on a car around here is barely 2 years tho, so I can't tell you they work for 20 years.....in theory yes.

 

[rook]

Find an autobody supply store that carries Wurth products, they have a rubberized undercoat that works great as well as corrosion resistant products. Otherwise, try to find an epoxy type product , it will provide strong long term adhesion and you shouldnt have to worry about cracking

 

[Light_Mania]

and the Toyota dealer undercoats all new vehicles right off the truck.

I don't think many on these forums would consider that to be much of a recommendation, in consideration of the typical profit-enhancing low value "options" dealers are wont to slap onto new cars

I have installed a few modules, and according to the module companies they work great. The oldest one on a car around here is barely 2 years tho, so I can't tell you they work for 20 years.....in theory yes.

So the companies that sell these modules claim they work great? Thats some kind of recommendation for them? Actually, in theory they don't work at all. The theory they supply is pseudoscience at best. There is a role for electrical countercurrent corrosion protection in some applications, but it won't work on an automobile body.

 

[Northof49]

I don't think many on these forums would consider that to be much of a recommendation, in consideration of the typical profit-enhancing low value "options" dealers are wont to slap onto new cars


So the companies that sell these modules claim they work great? Thats some kind of recommendation for them? Actually, in theory they don't work at all. The theory they supply is pseudoscience at best. There is a role for electrical countercurrent corrosion protection in some applications, but it won't work on an automobile body.

All I can report are my personal experiences. I have driven and been under literally hundreds of brand new Toyotas with and without undercoat, and seen them after years of use. From what I have seen, if quality product is applied in the correct fashion, it works very well. Road noise levels are reduced, noise from tires kicking up crap is GREATLY reduced, and a very healthy amount of metal is covered that is exposed from the factory. If someone has as much experience in the negative direction, I'm all ears. If you're simply trying to call me dumb for stating that about the dealer, save it.

The dealership here charges $275, which is reasonable enough that you'd be nuts not to take it in a 4-season area IMHO. If you were intent on doing it yourself, you could cut costs somewhat, as with anything. Be sure you have access to a hoist, air compressor, pressure washer, undercoat gun, respirator or painter's mask, gloves, crappy clothes, laquer thinner, and a few hours if you've never done it before. Also, read up on what you can and can't apply it to under there and get ready to be covered in a tar-like substance for about 48 hours.

As for the rust modules, here's the Diamond Kote product:
http://www.diamondkote.com/dkgold_DK9000.htm

I was mearly stating that they're out there, and they're "supposed" to work. They haven't been on the market all that long, but if they work and I could avoid putting the gold goop in the vehicle, I would. If the module doesn't turn your crank, the mist is tried and true, albeit messy.

 

[Light_Mania]

I certainly respect your personal experience with regard to the effectiveness of undercoating, and was not calling that into question. Its noise muffling effectiveness is certainly well accepted.

I did want to make the point that the opinions of vendors of products of arguable value are not likely to carry much weight with thoughtful forum members. Is that calling anyone stupid? I don't think so.