Sub installation help

[Pill Clinton]

I just purchased a sub and amp that meet the requirements of my 2004 Limited 4Runner and followed the guides posted on this forum, and upon tearing it apart, I realized that I needed an RCA input into my OEM Nav unit, and a power line for it all. I know that I can dip in to my rear power outlet, but don't know how, and also, I don't have the slightest idea as to how I can get the RCA hookup without buying a new nav unit.

Anyone know how to get the sub to work with the stock nav unit, and how to dip into the rear power supply?

Sub & Amp I bought -
Amazon.com: JBL GTO804 Reduced Depth 8-Inch Subwoofer: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Boss Audio R1100M Mosfet Monoblock Power Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Level Control: Electronics

 

[sittinpretti03]

What do you mean by using the rear power outlet, to power the amp? You won't able to have enough power. I would buy a install kit like this for power. it comes straight from the battery. also keep the ground connection clean and as short as possible to eliminate engine noise.
Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics


Use a product like this to get a rca output with stock stereo. you just put it inline with the rear speakers wires. pretty simple and straight forward.
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

 

[Pill Clinton]

What do you mean by using the rear power outlet, to power the amp? You won't able to have enough power. I would buy a install kit like this for power. it comes straight from the battery. also keep the ground connection clean and as short as possible to eliminate engine noise.
Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics


Use a product like this to get a rca output with stock stereo. you just put it inline with the rear speakers wires. pretty simple and straight forward.
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

Would putting in the RCA output still be viable with an OEM nav system (2004), I grounded it to the bolt on the seats. The amp will sit right under the passenger seat with about an inch of clearance.

 

[sittinpretti03]

yes, no problem. the interface just give an output on the signal going to the rear speakers. I have the same interface in my duramax w/ nav and have no problem

 

[Pill Clinton]

yes, no problem. the interface just give an output on the signal going to the rear speakers. I have the same interface in my duramax w/ nav and have no problem

any idea as to where i would have to hook it in, regarding which wires to attach to? Would i have to solder it in or what?

Thank you for the help, I appreciate it

 

[kolelt]

Me and my dad installed two 12 subs with a mono d amp to stock headunit. in his Chrysler 300c. Pretty much you need tap into both rear speakers and connect it to a little RCA box. The rca will have outputs for the amp. And after that you just get power source for the amp. Car battery is the best source. If u want pics message me

 

[kolelt]

Tap into the rear speakers like that.

Then connect the amp to a converter. And the wires from the speakers also go into the converter. Then like I said connect amp to car battery

 

[Mont]

If your going to put subs in and want them to actually sound good, read up on it way more, watch youtube tutorials and whatnot. actually spend the money and time to do it well. Get a new headunit, i suggest JVC or Alpine, then get the RCA's get the amp wiring kit, and also, your amp is RMS : 250 watts, and your sub is RMS :400 watts, your going to probably blow your amp pretty soon because the sub is demanding more power than the amp can give. do it right, and youll thank yourself for doing it that way.

 

[Offroader5]

If your going to put subs in and want them to actually sound good, read up on it way more, watch youtube tutorials and whatnot. actually spend the money and time to do it well. Get a new headunit, i suggest JVC or Alpine, then get the RCA's get the amp wiring kit, and also, your amp is RMS : 250 watts, and your sub is RMS :400 watts, your going to probably blow your amp pretty soon because the sub is demanding more power than the amp can give. do it right, and youll thank yourself for doing it that way.

You need to read up more on the subject yourself. Start with what the RMS ratings of subs & amps means, then please tell me how you'll "blow your amp" because the RMS rating isn't as much as the sub.

 

[Mont]

You need to read up more on the subject yourself. Start with what the RMS ratings of subs & amps means, then please tell me how you'll "blow your amp" because the RMS rating isn't as much as the sub.

Lol its just not that good for sound quality, RMS is the optimum power you want to get the best sound, over powering isnt the best thing in the world, it puts strain on the amp, which in turn, will eventually burn it out faster than it would run normally, ive been down that road

 

[wsmc831]

Lol its just not that good for sound quality, RMS is the optimum power you want to get the best sound, over powering isnt the best thing in the world, it puts strain on the amp, which in turn, will eventually burn it out faster than it would run normally, ive been down that road

I don't believe one thing you stated is correct. No offense, but I've been doing this for 25 years.

 

[Offroader5]

Lol its just not that good for sound quality, RMS is the optimum power you want to get the best sound, over powering isnt the best thing in the world, it puts strain on the amp, which in turn, will eventually burn it out faster than it would run normally, ive been down that road

What? The way you word this, you believe the higher power handling of the driver is going to "overpower" the amp? The driver has NO power to begin with. The power comes FROM the amp to the driver. The driver is static until power is sent to it by the source...in this case an amplifier. If you've been down that road, then you are doing something wrong.

In terms of a driver, RMS is simply a recommended continuous rated power. If the RMS of a driver is 800w, that means that it CAN handle 800w continuously...not that it MUST have that amount of power to work correctly. It greatly depends on the enclosure and what environment it's installed into.

You could install a 15" sub RMS rated at 1000w in an IB (infinite baffle) setup using the entire trunk of a car as the enclosure, and it won't take nearly that much power before the sub reaches it's mechanical limits of cone movement. It may only require 100-200 watts to power for an IB installed sub to get the sound needed. On the opposite side of the spectrum, if you install the 15 into a small sealed enclosure, it may take every bit or even more of that 1000w to get it moving and sounding like it should, but having less power will just result in less SPL.

You won't hurt the amp by connecting it to a driver that can take more power than the amp can provide. Unless of course you do what you should NOT be doing...using the gain as a volume knob. If you have the gain turned up all the way thinking you're getting "more power" out of the amp, you could push the amp into clipping while even listening to music at normal volume levels. But still at that point, most amps will just go into protection mode and shut down when there is a problem. When pushed into clipping, the driver is still more at risk than the amplifier.

 

[VolksDragon]

Offroader and 831 are correct. The amplifier will only do what it is told from the input side, the only external factor on the ouput side is the resistance load, nothing else. The sub doesn't ask for or require any more or less signal than it is given, it is a totally passive part of the equation.

To Clinton, you can certainly add that sub and amp to your existing system by using a common line-level to RCA adapter, and example is listed HERE. That little guy should be hooked up to your rear speaker wires, and will allow that signal to be converted to RCA-level to plug into your amp.

You can accomplish that by removing your factory head unit and using wiretaps or careful splicing to the rear speaker leads, or you can locate the wires in the hatch area near the speakers, and convert the signal there. Realistically, for a subwooofer, you could get away with just using the right or left channel. The exact colors of the leads you need can be determined by pulling the speakers and looking, or by pulling the headunit and examining the harness.

For power, you'll need at least an 8-gauge wiring kit, available at any WalMart or Car Audio store. Run the fused power lead directly from the battery, and locate a ground source as close to the amp as possilbe. You'll also need to run a remote turn-on wire from an ignition-on source, and run it with the power wire to whatever location you choose for the amp.

PM me if you have questions, or if you need some tips on how to precisely determine the + and - speakers leads.

 

[earthrealm]

bought the boss monoblock amp...hooked it up ant the led protection light comes on..fiddle with it a few..it goes off...n then comes back a few secs after...dont know what is is the problem..have traced and removed the speaker cable, ground etc...still no dice...has anyone run into this problem b4>

 

[earthrealm]

ok, have solved the problem, my ground wire wasnt tight.
now new question: on the boss monoblock amp...is it best to leave it on full range or sub?......have been playing with the controls for some time now...am yet to get the sweet spot, bass isnt as tight as i want..i tapped off power from the rca out on my pioneer avh4400bh hu, nd i have a 10'' flat pioneer sub 200w rms 800w peak