Subwoofer enclosure progress

Carl Fisher

New member
Just a few progress pics. Removed the original JBL sub and amp to make room for the new enclosure. This will house a JL 10TW3.

Traced out a cardboard template and cut until it fit the way I wanted. Then cut "rings" of 1/2" MDF and sandwiched them together to get an internal depth of right at 4". Just need to make the baffle for the front and get it mounted.

The original grill was removed by grinding down the plastic welds. I'm intending to keep the original panel in good enough shape to put it back to stock some day if I need to. The panel clamped up in the picture is the beginning of the new grill that will also be extended over the wheel well to mount the amp.
 

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Interested to see the finished product. I need yo come up with some solution for mine.

What is the benefit of your enclosure? More volume?
Obviously it's more rigid, but I doubt you're doing all that for strength.
 
Strength and rigidity are actually the reason for doing it. Sound quality suffers with a thin walled enclosure. When it comes to subwoofer enclosures, heavy and rigid are the main keys along with the obvious enclosure size and design. Since this is a sealed enclosure, all I had to do was hit a target air space and with the sub I'm using that's anywhere from .5 to .8 ideal. This should be somewhere in the .6 range less displacement of the driver. It'll give up a little bit of low end extension but that's alright for my needs to get it into the space.
 
Would it be easier to reinforce the existing box with fiberglass?

I'm sure you've thought of this, just wanted to get your thoughts.
 
Would it be easier to reinforce the existing box with fiberglass?

I'm sure you've thought of this, just wanted to get your thoughts.

building a new filberglass enlcosure would be alot easier, and the enclosure he built is overkill for the sub choice IMO. No sub or subs need more than 3/4 inch mdf or birchwood.

regardless, it looks to be a quality build and will definately last.

OP How do you plan on sealing the inside of the enclosure. Usually you want to seal all joining wood pieces with either silicone or glass resin. With that many joing pieces, you would need to "seal" the whole inside.
 
All valid quesitons.

I personally don't consider it overkill. It's really not much more than 3/4" in wall thickness. Maybe a touch more because I cut the original template a bit proud of my original scribe line. It's no different than using 3/4" flat stock on a square box, but in this case I stacked layers to conform to the irregular shape.

As for sealing the enclosure, I haven't had to add extra sealant to a box I've built in 20+ years now. If your joints are true and you glue and clamp properly, you don't have air leaks.

I've paid my dues with fiberglass and resins. Asside from this being a family vehicle that I don't want stinking of resin for weeks, my lungs and skin have paid the price from past years in the install bay doing custom work. When there are alternatives I use them which is what you see here.
 
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Would it be easier to reinforce the existing box with fiberglass?

I'm sure you've thought of this, just wanted to get your thoughts.

To directly answer this, if I had gone the fiberglass route, polyester resins will generally not bond to plastics. So I would have had to use the original enclosure as a plug to create a mold and then create a new enclosure out of that mold. Trying to get anything to permanently bond to the interior of the stock enclosure is just a failure waiting to happen. No matter how much you scuff up the plastic it will delaminate over time if you get it to stick initially at all.

Some will say epoxy resins bond to plastic, but as I noted in the post above above, if I have an alternative to fiberglassing I'll take it.

This is only a short afternoon worth of work so easier is not really an issue.
 
Epoxy Resin would work I think. Just curious. Thanks!

*edit*
FWIW I really dig what you've done. My questions were based around me trying to think of an easier way. Your box looks very sturdy and definitely more rigid than factory which will, as you said, provide tighter bass response. But with the tools I own, it would be a huge effort to create that. I.E. Jigsaws... It wouldn't be pretty.

Keep us updated!
 
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Yes, epoxy resin can work if prepped and applied correctly. You'd want to emory cloth or similar the entire surface and then degrease with something like denatured alcohol to remove any possible oils or release agents from the original casting of the part.

Then apply a bonding coat of resin before applying any mat. Then glass as normal.
 
Years ago I used to make a lot of subwoofer enclosures from MDF.....good choice. It was dimensionally stable, inexpensive, and easy to work with. Can't wait for you to post the finished product. Your glue-up looks great!

I had a buddy who owned a stereo shop and he always sprayed the inside of the enclosure with rubberized undercoating. This helped to absorb any vibrations plus it was an additional joint sealant. Also stuffing the enclosure with poly fill tricks the subwoofer into thinking it's in a larger enclosure.

While sealed enclosures provide pretty tight control of bass, a ported enclosure yields a significant increase in volume and bass thump. For years I ran two Kicker 12" subs each in their own sealed enclosure then changed out the enclosure to one 10" JL Audio 10W-3 sub in a one cubic foot ported enclosure and it was a night and day difference.

Look forward to seeing additional pics!
 
Hey all, I hope you don't think I'm coming off as a know-it-all. I'm far from it and I'll be the first to admit that there is so much that I don't know and probably never will. That said, there are hundreds of correct ways to tackle any problem. There are also countless incorrect ways.

If you don't mind me sharing a little of my background, I used to be a member of the Image Dynamics Elite team back in the mid to late 90's on the IASCA, USAC and SLAP circuits. I learned the bulk of what I know from the guys that ultimately became the heart of the Image Dynamics engineering team until the breakup a few years ago. I don't compete anymore and haven't since early 2000s but I still enjoy SQ competition level sound. My installs have definitely shifted to more of the stealth side than the flashy side though and are definitely not as complex as they used to be.

Over the years, I've done sealed, ported, bandpass of various orders, isobaric, aperiodic mats, you name it I've probably built it at one point in my life. I find that sealed is my overall preferred method. Affords better mechanical control of the sub, slightly higher power handling, smaller enclosures, and just easier to build and integrate.

Spraying the interior of the enclosure with undercoating used to be pretty common. It doesn't technically absorb vibration, but it lowers the resonant frequency of the enclsoure by adding mass. It's the same principal behind sound deadening mat and spray. Add mass, lower resonant frequency below a point where it is an issue. The up side is that it can help seal minor leaks.

The polyfill is also a great trick for small enclosures. General rule is to start somewhere around 14-16oz of polyfill for every 1cu ft of enclosure space. You can sometimes "gain" anywhere from 25-40% of perceived air space which really means you're altering the internal airspace in such a way that the mechanical properties of the sub alter and perform as if they were in a larger enclosure. The larger the natural air space of the box though, the less effective this becomes.

A half way decent sub in the right enclosure can sound better than the best sub in a poorly designed enclosure. I've seen people thrown money at the best equipment on the market only to skimp on the install and end up pissed off because it underperforms.

Hopefully I can get back in the shop one night this week to finish up the front baffle. If not, I'll see if I can squeeze it in between doing the bilstein/FJ suspension swap this weekend.
 
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Haven't made much progress other than to test fit the enclosure. I should be able to work on the front baffle tonight to button up the enclosure portion then on to the grill/trim panel work.

I'm expecting to need to fine tune the fit with a grinder to get all of the stock panel clips to reach where they need but I can't do that until I get the baffle on and set the final depth and secured in place.

I didn't really bother cleaning up the interior either. Once I seal it up and stuff it with polyfill it'll never been seen again :)
 

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That looks great. I'm super jealous. I recently gutted my JBL system, but the 8W1 I used just doesn't get deep enough. Keep up the good work and be sure to post pictures of the finished product.
 
Progress has slowed to non-existant at this point. Had a family vacation along with building a new shop at the house that have put the 4Runner mods on hold for a bit.

I have it installed and functional, but looks like crap until I can start working up the trim work the way I want. I think I'll end up breaking out the fiberglass for this one as I couldn't get any flat panel trim to look right when I left off and I want to relocate the amp over that wheel well so I'll integrate it all into the trim work.
 
How much would you charge to make another one of those after the finished product?

Unfortunately it's not a drop in solution that I could make and sell. I ended up having to cut up the factory panel to clearance the front of the sub once the final baffle was in place. I will be reworking the entire panel to integrate the sub grill and amp rack.
 

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