Sudden oil loss. UPDATE

[T4R2014]

Well, now we know what can happen when you overfill a 5VZ. I'm surprised the rear main didn't quit first.

 

[Houli]

Got her torn down, cam seals dry but the crank shaft seal was blown out about 3/16 from where it should have been seated and sitting at a slight angle. Now the question is what caused it. Would an extra 1/2 qt of oil do it? Unless my dipstick is wrong I always have to put in 7 qts to bring it to the full mark. Also I was able to push the new crank seal almost all the way in with my fingers and just a couple taps. Seems like it should be tighter.

Check your crankshaft for excessive end play. If there is noticeable end play in the crankshaft it can walk the seal out of the oil pump and cause the exact conditions you experienced.

Page EM-84 of the FSM gives the following information for crankshaft 'thrust clearance':

Standard thrust clearance: 0.020-0.220 mm (0.0008-0.0087 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance: 0.300 mm (0.0118 in.)

 

[alumarine]

Check your crankshaft for excessive end play. If there is noticeable end play in the crankshaft it can walk the seal out of the oil pump and cause the exact conditions you experienced.

Page EM-84 of the FSM gives the following information for crankshaft 'thrust clearance':

Standard thrust clearance: 0.020-0.220 mm (0.0008-0.0087 in.)
Maximum thrust clearance: 0.300 mm (0.0118 in.)

This is why you should have checked to see if the crank pulley wobbled.
It is large enough to give you an idea by eye.

You can still do it by putting the pulley back on and cranking the motor.
Might want to disable the injectors and spark.

Best way though is to use a dial indicator on the crank snout.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I don't quite see how an excess quart of oil in the crankcase can blow out the crank seal. Maybe if there enough oil to submerge the crankshaft in the oil, but I think it'd take more than one or two extra quarts?

My suspicion is that the seal blew out for reasons other than excess oil, but in either case it needs to be replaced.

OP, has the timing belt been replaced recently? The fact that you have a blown crank seal, and the crankshaft bolt was only handtight would suggest to me that someone messed with those parts and didn't do the job quite right. I think that's your culprit, not excess oil.

 

[sawguy]

When I bought it the PO said the belt had been replaced, but anyone can put a sticker on the timing cover and make it look that way. The belt didn't look bad (no cracks or fraying). When I removed the crank pulley it came off with a lot of effort with the puller so even though the bolt was loose I don't think it was wobbling. I'm going to replace the PCV valve just in case and only put in the amount of oil recommended instead of looking at the dip stick mark.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

When I bought it the PO said the belt had been replaced, but anyone can put a sticker on the timing cover and make it look that way. The belt didn't look bad (no cracks or fraying). When I removed the crank pulley it came off with a lot of effort with the puller so even though the bolt was loose I don't think it was wobbling. I'm going to replace the PCV valve just in case and only put in the amount of oil recommended instead of looking at the dip stick mark.

Good plan. My point about the previous TB job being the possible culprit is that given that they neglected to tighten the bolt properly, perhaps they also failed to install the crankshaft seal properly, causing it to pop out.

Anyway, sounds like you are on the right path, and good thinking about replacing the PCV valve just in case.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My vote is in the seal not being installed correctly or its fitment was crappy. The crank seal I got in my timing belt kit for the 96 I didn't like at all so I went to napa and got their crank seal. Was much happier with their quality.

Thrust of .0008 to .008 you will only see with a dial indicator. It's been my experience that if thrust is outside of those numbers the engine doesn't last too long.

If you had a fueling issue and it caused a lean backfire in the intake I can see that pushing out a seal also.


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[sawguy]

After reviewing a few videos I'm wondering if I shouldn't use a seal with a metal housing instead of rubber. I say this because of how easy it was to install. Any recommendations for brand? NAPA, felpro, etc. I'm just not having much faith in the Toyota seal.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

After reviewing a few videos I'm wondering if I shouldn't use a seal with a metal housing instead of rubber. I say this because of how easy it was to install. Any recommendations for brand? NAPA, felpro, etc. I'm just not having much faith in the Toyota seal.

I used an OEM Seal and it was fine. Why do you assume that the one that popped out was OEM?

 

[sawguy]

I wasn't assuming that, it's just that the new oem went in so easy with only a couple taps, mostly with just my fingers.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I wasn't assuming that, it's just that the new oem went in so easy with only a couple taps, mostly with just my fingers.

Ah, ok, got it.

 

[alumarine]

After reviewing a few videos I'm wondering if I shouldn't use a seal with a metal housing instead of rubber. I say this because of how easy it was to install. Any recommendations for brand? NAPA, felpro, etc. I'm just not having much faith in the Toyota seal.

Are you sure it isn't a rubber coated metal seal?
Using a sealant on the outside of the seal might help to keep it in place.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I wasn't assuming that, it's just that the new oem went in so easy with only a couple taps, mostly with just my fingers.

Exactly why I didn't use mine. Plus the inner sealing surface was dry. The napa was much tighter going into the hole plus it had a graphite lube on the inner sealing surface.


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[sawguy]

I think I'm going to go the NAPA route. I also read where sometimes people put weatherstrip adhesive on the outside rim of the seal.

 

[alumarine]

I think I'm going to go the NAPA route. I also read where sometimes people put weatherstrip adhesive on the outside rim of the seal.

Why not use a product that's made to resist heat and oil?
There's a ton if them. They would cost you $5 at an auto parts store?
You could also use it for other motor related things.