Suggestions on appraoching 4r issue

fourrunin

New member
ok, just about a year ago this month, came home from vegas to the fam and the 4r had a definite issue. To my memory it shuddered upon acceleration and had heavy resistance , mostly worse the cooler outside it got. it seemed to shake at 50-62 mph, like an outa balance tire- sort of, then in a *snap* it would be back to normal.
Took it in to get the tranny flushed, was told the fluid was burnt and hammered to water. May have damaged some vibrational dampers(?)
The fluid change help to soften the issue, but it came and went without consistency.
At some point the CEL came on, no. 5cyl not firing, but I could really feel this. It came and went too. The reason I could separate it was when it wouldn't fire for a period of time, the light would flash, as if re-entering the code (?)
Super jerky, felt almost like running outa gas etc...
3 weeks ago put in another injector and put in new Bosch +2's.(old plugs look good) seafoamed the intake, it was pretty clean anyhow.
No CEL and she starts alot easier and there is a little better response on the pedal.
BUT
the (suspected) tranny problem remains. If accelerating into the mid 50 mph the shudder starts, let off gas, tap it hard, readjust pedal, can find a sweet spot it doesn't do it. This is in the 50-62mph range.
It seems to me, jumping onto an on-ramp, shes got no giddy-up n go like I remember before the long lit 5th cyl failure light.
It reminds me of the old TPS problems on my 86's Ive had.
Are TPS probs common on these?
HOw do I separate a tranny problem from an intake prob with NO CODES???
I see a diagnostic plug attached on the driver side engine bay
I can sit in park and rev it with out hesitation or shaking
Idles nicely, especially with new plugs
I can cruise down the side streets without hesitation or "oddness"
I just get the shuddering at irregular intervals, the it "releases"
what I mean by that is it suddenly goes back to normal feeling.
Normal drivability, normal pedal response. But I know she doesnt have the proper acceleration when needed

How do I begin to diagnose this properly?
What can I expect for a bill to open the tranny to inspect??
 
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Your whole problem sounds like it's all about that miss on #5. Typically when trannies start to give out, you will get slipping (meaning the rpms will shoot up, but you won't go any faster). Your problem sounds like it's all hesitation and studdering which is more likely to happen with a miss rather than a tranny. I had a similar problem for about 2 years and I was going back and forth between the miss I had on cyl. #3, my sensors (like TPS, coolant temp sensor), my PCV valve, and I also thought maybe it was the tranny at points. Unfortunately for me I just could not find the problem.

Finally once the miss and studdering just got too bad, I had it rebuilt and found out why I could nver figure it out - cracked heads. I hope that's not your issue (and there are quite a few things that can cause a miss), but my point is.. I think everything you are feeling is that dead #5 hole. BTW, my CEL light would go on sometimes and not others so just because it doesn't turn on doesn't mean you aren't still missing.
 
I could believe its an ignition problem.
Of course I cringe at the cracked heads theory, sooo
How do I check for problem heads? Compression test?

So stick with the #5 not firing. DIDN'T replace the plug wires and didnt swap the coil packs.That was my next path as I remembered this site.

Whats a good free/affordable, real time OSBII to usb datalogger program? That SHOULD pin pint this yes??? If Im going to pay a shop, Id rather invest in me
 
I'm pretty new to the forum but was having an eerily similar problem on my 4R, thought it was trans, looked around on here and saw some similar stories and most people said after changing their plugs it went away. I just did my plugs 2 days ago and mine runs great now, problem solved. Maybe you should look into the plug wires and/or coil packs before you get more in depth, at least swap them out to see, you can always return them if they aren't the culprit.
 
Im thinkin coil packs too.
I've seen remanufactured FI's for $200 on Ebay, Id like to sawp those too, thatll be a month before I can afford that luzary

How many signals have to be sent fo rthe ECU to show a 5th cyl not firing? How does it determine that?
 
I could believe its an ignition problem.
Of course I cringe at the cracked heads theory, sooo
How do I check for problem heads? Compression test?

So stick with the #5 not firing. DIDN'T replace the plug wires and didnt swap the coil packs.That was my next path as I remembered this site.

Whats a good free/affordable, real time OSBII to usb datalogger program? That SHOULD pin pint this yes??? If Im going to pay a shop, Id rather invest in me

You're on the right track, I would start with replacing that wire and also swapping the coils pack. Bosch plugs don't do so well for a lot of people (including myself in the past). I doubt that the Bosch plug(s) are what's causing your miss, but OEM NGK or Denso plugs are the best to use in our engines.

My compression was good in all my cylinders when I tested it. It was as if the cracked heads sealed up as the engine warmed up. My biggest clue was that I was loosing coolant into the combustion chamber (because it wasn't leaking out anywhere else) and it would run really rough for the 1st 30 seconds or so after a cold start. I would have to fill up my overflow tank about every 2 weeks.

I'm not hip to the OSBII to usb datalogger program stuff. So I can't really help you there. I just used a normal OBDII scanner to read my codes so I knew it was a miss. As far as diagnosing it, I tried just about everything I could think of over that period of 2 years and didn't get any answers until they took the heads off. I suspected a HG leak since I was loosing coolant so I was close.
 

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