Sunpilot's 4Runner Official Build Thread

[SunPilot]

Getting the new uniball uca in was not hard, but it was frustrating because I had no help. The problem was trying to hold the new uca down at the wheel well and trying to insert that long bolt (which would have been done easily from the engine compartment), through the bushings and the frame bosses. If I had three hands it would have been a picnic. I had enough room, however, for my left hand to hold and guide the bolt while my right hand jiggled the uca into place. It lined up and the bolt slid through... success!
The new Icon UCA ready to install

After I lined it up, the bolt slid through and the uca was in!

I installed the large nut and that was that


The new uniball spindle is tapered and will only fit into the knuckle a short distance. I assume this is where the extended length of travel comes from. The bolt is not tightened yet because I may need to loosen it and gain some clearance when I install the new coil overs.




Next... the coil over spring/shock assembly gets installed...

 

[alia176]

Sorry about this newbie question, but what was the reason you went uniball UCA vs BJ UCA that someone else makes?

 

[SunPilot]

Sorry about this newbie question, but what was the reason you went uniball UCA vs BJ UCA that someone else makes?

No problem... the uniball uca I installed gives more up/down movement to the suspension without the uca binding against the springs at droop. The uniballs have more range of motion than a stock ball joint. It compensates for the increased ride height. I believe it would be almost impossible to wedge the Icon coil-overs in their seats if the stock uca with ball joints were still there. Perhaps someone makes a uca with ball joints that allows for more lift. It also alters the castor in a more favorable way (lifting usually negatively affects the castor, and makes it almost impossible to get back in specs during an alignment.

 

[SunPilot]

Today I finished the install of the driver's side coil-over, and the passenger's side UCA.
The Icon coil-over was substantially longer than the stock unit, but it went in without a fuss. The uniball uca's allowed enough room and flex to make the installation painless.







The design of the Icon coil-over made it easier to get to the rear top mounting bolt that I had trouble getting off from the original shock. There seemed to be more room between the top of the coil-over system and the sheet metal.

 

[SunPilot]

Next, I jumped to the passenger's side. The uca install went much smoother, probably because I gained experience from the driver's side install. I did have clearance problems on this side also...remember, I had to remove the battery on the left side, the right side clearance problem was the power steering reservoir hose impeding the removal of the long top pivot bolt.


After moving the reservoir from it's holder, I was able to flex the hose enough to let the bolt pass. After that, the uca came right out. If you remember, I had some trouble holding the uca and lining up the long pivot bolt on the left side during installation (needed three hands LOL). I got a stroke of common sense today. I have a nice long 3/8" extension, which slid inside the bushing tube. I placed the uca in it's proper location and slid the extension through the bushings and frame bosses. It kept the uca in proper alignment and left me free to go into the engine compartment to start the long bolt easily. As I pushed the bolt into position, it pushed the extension out the other side...a piece of cake!!




The job only took about a half hour. I will do the coil-over on the passenger side in the morning, then re-torque everything, grease the zerks, and put the vehicle on the ground to see how she looks. I'll re-measure the clearances to compare against stock values.
Here are a few pics of the amount of adjustability on the Icons



BTW, I have my stock uca's with good bushings and ball joints...both sides are in good shape. If anyone needs them I would be happy to give them to you. If you live in the Phoenix/Mesa area, PM me and I'll give you my address. If you are an out-of-towner, I will send them to you if you pay shipping. If nobody can use them, they go in next week's trash!

 

[alia176]

BTW, I have my stock uca's with good bushings and ball joints...both sides are in good shape. If anyone needs them I would be happy to give them to you. If you live in the Phoenix/Mesa area, PM me and I'll give you my address. If you are an out-of-towner, I will send them to you if you pay shipping. If nobody can use them, they go in next week's trash!

Nice job. I can't recall, are you suppose to torque the hardware after the tires are fully weighed down?

 

[SunPilot]

Nice job. I can't recall, are you suppose to torque the hardware after the tires are fully weighed down?

I torqued the upper control arms before putting car on ground, but I did lift with a jack to center the suspension (as if it were on the ground). The other bolts, such as coil-over shocks (top and bottom mount) torques when they were installed, as was the tie rods, and anything else I disconnected. Icon does say to put the vehicle on the ground and then remove the bolt holding the top of the uniball spindle retainer, then to coat with provided thread locker and reinstall and torque. I guess one could do all torquing when vehicle is on ground, but I felt it was too easy to miss something that way.

 

[Jwm6]

So what are your plans for the rear bumper? The stock rear number is one of the things I dislike about the 4th gen and not a lot of good aftermarket bumper either. IMHO


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[SunPilot]

So what are your plans for the rear bumper? The stock rear number is one of the things I dislike about the 4th gen and not a lot of good aftermarket bumper either. IMHO


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I am thinking along the lines of a plate bumper with twin swing outs. One side will carry the spare, the other extra fuel, etc. I'll have to put some ideas on paper soon. My biggest concern is getting a nice lean bumper to enhance departure angle, and reduce weight. I will need to carry water with me also, and I have a few ideas along those lines.
My front bumper will probably end up as a bent tube design that protects the front end without being gaudy or extra heavy. I can't see throwing 175 pounds out front.

 

[BlairB]

I am thinking along the lines of a plate bumper with twin swing outs. One side will carry the spare, the other extra fuel, etc. I'll have to put some ideas on paper soon. My biggest concern is getting a nice lean bumper to enhance departure angle, and reduce weight. I will need to carry water with me also, and I have a few ideas along those lines.
My front bumper will probably end up as a bent tube design that protects the front end without being gaudy or extra heavy. I can't see throwing 175 pounds out front.

I think modeling something similar to a 4x4 labs is a great option. If you are confident that you won't be going back to stock cutting the rear cross member will gain you a bit of departure angle and will allow you to tuck a bumper much tighter.

Sorry for the bad photo, but it gives an idea.

 

[SunPilot]

I think modeling something similar to a 4x4 labs is a great option. If you are confident that you won't be going back to stock cutting the rear cross member will gain you a bit of departure angle and will allow you to tuck a bumper much tighter.

Sorry for the bad photo, but it gives an idea.

Thanks for the input...gives me something to think about

 

[SunPilot]

I finished the suspension this past week... The final thing was inserting new spacers under the stabilizer bar hold downs. They are simple blocks that lower the bar and move it a tad forward so it clears the suspension parts, probably mostly the tie rods.
Right side spring and uca installed

Here are the new stabilizer bar relocation blocks included with the shocks

The mounting holes from the original stab

The new blocks go back in the same place, but the new holes move the clamp and stab bar forward an inch or so



The bar installed on the new blocks. You can see how the bar is lowered and moved forward, giving enough clearance to prevent rubbing of suspension parts.



The bar was then tightened back in it's original position on the steering knuckle


Here are a few pics of the 4Runner after the suspension was finished. You can see the extra height I gained from the new front and rear springs.








I took the truck for a few short rides. I haven't done the realignment yet because I'm waiting to get new front and rear bumpers. The ride was better than expected, even though the truck is lighter than original. I feel that after the new spare tire is mounted, new bumpers, and assorted gear, the truck will sit at a nice level and give a decent ride on the highway, but also provide much more off road capability. Now, I am searching for some nice wheels that will look good. I have a new welder on order, and hopefully by next weekend I can start to fab the bumpers. I'll probably make my own rock sliders also. Stay tuned!

 

[ExCabSwap]

Great build so far! Can't wait for mine to get similar treatment!

The XREAS brackets only amount to less than 2 pounds. The shocks were the heavy items...

BTW, that's the truth... I put about 15K in a metal box and left it there until I found this 4Runner. It was hard to resist, but in some ways, I'm disciplined! LOL

Seems like an easy enough removal. Worth doing if you've got it (glad I don't ..) but I can't imagine it taking more than a couple hours..

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rAskv_pSmS0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[SunPilot]

Great build so far! Can't wait for mine to get similar treatment!



Seems like an easy enough removal. Worth doing if you've got it (glad I don't ..) but I can't imagine it taking more than a couple hours..

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I went to an Icon suspension, so I had to remove the XREAS. All the shocks were leaking slightly anyway. The lines and equalizers were easy to get off. Just a little mess with dripping oil. The shocks were the hardest part, but no worse that an ordinary shock setup once the hyd. lines were disconnected.

 

[SunPilot]

Front Bumper

I started on my front bumper today. Just removing the bumper and looking over the frame and attachments I have to work with. Tomorrow, I will start to formulate a bumper design.
20161109_115918 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_120304 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

I popped the plastic retainers on top of the bumper cover
20161109_112936 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

Then removed the bolts holding it on underneath
20161109_113616 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_113619 by sunpilot1, on Flickr


There are some hidden bolts...one on each side under the inner fender, I pulled the plastic fender back and easily removed the bolts
20161109_114256 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_114305 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

Then it was simply a matter of popping the bumper cover free from the tabs on the support arms
20161109_114619 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

Here's a pic of the tab...the slot in the bumper cover snaps into this tab...there are 4 on each side
20161109_114630 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_114646 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

Then it was a simple matter to remove the fog light bulbs and Voila...the bumper cover was on the ground
20161109_115918 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_115934 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

Next, I removed the upper bumper cover supports... there is one in the center and one on each side (3 all together)
20161109_120304 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_120558 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

20161109_120601 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_120735 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_121213 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

 

[SunPilot]

Finishing the bumper removal

How it looks with the bumper supports removed
20161109_121239 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_121536 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_121749 by sunpilot1, on Flickr


Next job was to remove the actual lower inner bumper. There are mounting studs pressed into the front of the frame that hold the unit on. They were easy to get to
20161109_130645 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_132645 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_132659 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

4 nuts on each side and the main bumper unit is on the ground
20161109_132856 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_132909 by sunpilot1, on Flickr
20161109_133157 by sunpilot1, on Flickr

The only thing left was to use a nice heavy hammer to knock out the pressed in studs. That way, I will have holes available for the mounting of the new bumper...I'll buy some appropriate bolts when the time comes.

 

[yotaguy674]

Still have those UCA's? How much shipped to 52165?

Thanks!

 

[SunPilot]

Still have those UCA's? How much shipped to 52165?

Thanks!

I'll get a shipping price for you and PM you later.

 

[TheFauxFox]

It looks absolutely immaculate! Can't wait to see it with the lift :bravo:

 

[SunPilot]

It looks absolutely immaculate! Can't wait to see it with the lift :bravo:

The lift is on. The pics of the 4R in my driveway are after the lift installation. It will be more apparent when I get the new wheels and tires and finish the bumpers. Getting the winch on Monday, then the front bumper fabrication will start.