Super-NooBIE question: changing interior dome-lights?

[ShooterMcGavin]

I have a '97 Runner and both of the interior "dome" lights are out. I have checked all fuses, with no issues there. I don't want to just pry on things until I break something, and all my searches have turned up results for LED dash lights replacements. I have pulled on things slightly with my fingers; didn't work.

The light above the back seats... do I just pry up the lens with a screwdriver?

The light above the cargo area... do I pry up on the lens or on the plastic surround piece?

Help?

 

[UnderFire]

The lenses will pop off of both of them, shouldn't take too much force with a really narrow ended flat screwdriver.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks. I put on my big girl panties and pried them both off.

Now, I've looked at both bulbs and each seems to be fine. With both switches turned to ON, I get an erratic voltage reading at the back seat light (sometimes 1-3v and rarely up to 12v) and I get a solid 12v at the cargo contacts. I've tried swapping builds. I still get no light from either one. Is this a common problem? Any ideas?

 

[TNRunner99]

You might want to unscrew the housing for the light and check the wiring coming in. Make sure the connection is good and not loose. But other than that I'm not sure what the problem could be if the fuses are good.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Ok. I've been testing for voltage at the contacts, but I could see if I get more consistent village at the source wires.

This is frustrating. I found on another forum that guys who have this problem have disconnected the key in ignition buzzer. Mine also is disconnected but I don't know how to plug it back in. Also, the car has an aftermarket alarm. When I move wires above the brake pedal, a light for the alarm system seems to turn on and off. I'm not liking this.

 

[1blink]

My dome lights get ground from the mounting screws, which loosened up once giving me intermittent light. Make sure the screws are in all the way.

 

[TheDurk]

My dome lights get ground from the mounting screws, which loosened up once giving me intermittent light. Make sure the screws are in all the way.

Actually, they don't, mostly. That screw ground only works when you use the switch on the light to turn it on continuously. Otherwise, they get ground from whatever door switch activated the lamp. They get 12V+ full-time and the grounds do the switching.

To the OP, I hope you have tried several doors to turn on the front lamp. If it has the same problem with all the doors, and the switch on the lamp, that ensures it is NOT a ground problem but a 12V+ problem. It sounds like the door switches are wired into the alarm, and that is almost certainly where the issue is. More than that, I don't think anyone help you as it is an after market mod. I'd try to find the alarm control box, find which wire feeds the dome light, and see what the voltage is. Then go from there.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks. That helps me track some things down and know what circuit to test.

I ran into a whole new problem last night. I checked each fuse (pulled, checked, put it back). I noticed that the fuse for the tail light circuit had a 15A in place where a 10A was supposed to be. I left it. I also fiddled under the dash, above the brake pedal, to see if any wires were loose or disconnected - nothing. Driving to work this morning, I had no stereo and no power locks. Leaving the car at work, I discovered that the 1 key I have is only good for the ignition. All doors won't unlock with the key. That means, my car is sitting at work unlocked I need to go back and check fuses.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks. That helps me track some things down and know what circuit to test.

I ran into a whole new problem last night. I checked each fuse (pulled, checked, put it back). I noticed that the fuse for the tail light circuit had a 15A in place where a 10A was supposed to be. I left it. I also fiddled under the dash, above the brake pedal, to see if any wires were loose or disconnected - nothing. Driving to work this morning, I had no stereo and no power locks. Leaving the car at work, I discovered that the 1 key I have is only good for the ignition. All doors won't unlock with the key. That means, my car is sitting at work unlocked I need to go back and check fuses.

I know this really neat site called 12volt.com. They have the info for wiring alarms for all cars. Here is yours:


1997 Toyota 4-Runner Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information

It looks like they intercept the door ground circuit. So does your light come on with the switch in the light?

Also, here is the dome light circuit from a 2002 4Runner. Yours should be close.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks. I will have to look into those diagrams.
Neither of the dome lights function at the ON setting or the DOOR setting.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks. I will have to look into those diagrams.
Neither of the dome lights function at the ON setting or the DOOR setting.

I would take those lights completely out of the truck and apply an outside 12v source and see if they go on. These things corrode and the springs get weak and I'd hate to tear into your chassis circuitry if you just have two hinky lights...that kind of crap happens all the time. It's definitely NOT a ground issue because DOOR and ON use different grounds.

Also confirm that the power supply wire is blue with a yellow stripe at both locations. And what are the colors of the door ground wire at each lamp? Do the map lights on your sunroof control and your vanity mirror work (if you have them)? How about the key cylinder ring?

 

[UnderFire]

The switch contacts on the dome lights honestly aren't very good, my rear hatch one is very picky, it doesn't work half the time and flickers all the time if it does turn on, that's most likely your problem.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks. I've made a little progress tonight. The dome light above the back seat works now. I took the switch apart and bent some of the contacts up, and then tightened everything up. Now, the switch works in all positions. I have diagnosed that 2 of the door ground switches need to be replaced. They work only if you fiddle with them. I want to order new ones. I can't get anything to happen with the cargo dome light. I might need to take the rear latch apart to find the ground and mess with it.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks. I've made a little progress tonight. The dome light above the back seat works now. I took the switch apart and bent some of the contacts up, and then tightened everything up. Now, the switch works in all positions. I have diagnosed that 2 of the door ground switches need to be replaced. They work only if you fiddle with them. I want to order new ones. I can't get anything to happen with the cargo dome light. I might need to take the rear latch apart to find the ground and mess with it.

Again, if the ON switch is not working, that's NOT your issue. It's either the lamp itself (as was the case in the front), or the 12V+ supply. The ON switch grounds right there at the mounting screws.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Also confirm that the power supply wire is blue with a yellow stripe at both locations. And what are the colors of the door ground wire at each lamp? Do the map lights on your sunroof control and your vanity mirror work (if you have them)? How about the key cylinder ring?

Good questions. I didn't record the wire coloring while I was in there, but I can do that later. I do remember that the driver's door ground wire was red and maybe with a black stripe.

The map lights work. I don't have mirrors on the sun visors. The light at the key ring cylinder does not work. I would really like that one to work

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Again, if the ON switch is not working, that's NOT your issue. It's either the lamp itself (as was the case in the front), or the 12V+ supply. The ON switch grounds right there at the mounting screws.

True.

Is the cargo dome light supposed to come on when front doors are open, or only when the lift gate opens? I suspect the former.

 

[TheDurk]

True.

Is the cargo dome light supposed to come on when front doors are open, or only when the lift gate opens? I suspect the former.

Nope. Only with the lift gate.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks Durk.

I figured I would add onto my old thread here, since this is related...
The front dome light does work now. I have discovered today that my door chime does work when the key is in the ignition or the headlights are on, when the door is open. Also, the ignition key ring glows. I definitely want the warning for leaving the lights on. The problem is the door switch grounds. I'm pretty happy to have resolved this issue!

Looking up some images, it looks like the door switches can be easily unplugged. Is that the case? Do I just need to pull more wire out of the door pillar, to reach the connector? Also, where should I buy these switches?

Eventually, I want to get the cargo light working again. I'll need to take the latch assembly apart to find the ground switch, I think. Otherwise, I might need to replace the switch, unless... Is there a way to clean/repair the cargo light switch, as I did by bending the contacts for the passenger dome light?

 

[4Runner4TW]

Thanks Durk.

I figured I would add onto my old thread here, since this is related...
The front dome light does work now. I have discovered today that my door chime does work when the key is in the ignition or the headlights are on, when the door is open. Also, the ignition key ring glows. I definitely want the warning for leaving the lights on. The problem is the door switch grounds. I'm pretty happy to have resolved this issue!

Looking up some images, it looks like the door switches can be easily unplugged. Is that the case? Do I just need to pull more wire out of the door pillar, to reach the connector? Also, where should I buy these switches?

Eventually, I want to get the cargo light working again. I'll need to take the latch assembly apart to find the ground switch, I think. Otherwise, I might need to replace the switch, unless... Is there a way to clean/repair the cargo light switch, as I did by bending the contacts for the passenger dome light?

I think I might be having a similar issue. I just replaced the Key Ring light and still nothing. Then I realized I have no chime when the key is in the ignition. Where can I locate the "door switch grounds" ?? Thanks for any help!!

 

[4Runner4TW]

OK figured it out. Went back out to the truck and discovered my door jamb switch is destroyed. I wiggled it around a bit and noticed the dome light came on and the key ring light for a second. Looks like O'Reilly's carries them so I'll go get one then found a write up on IH8MUD on how to replace it. Can't wait to get that key ring light back, never knew the dome light would come on when I open my drivers door so thats exciting.
96 4Runner door switch replacement | IH8MUD Forum

I'm sure this is a different issue but my key fob will lock the doors, but not unluck or open the back window. I had this function for about a year and its since been like this for over 2 now. Any suggestions? I tried to reprogram it but my actuators are shot.