Thread update for documentation purposes 173K miles
Air Injection System Bypass
Background:
This fix/workaround has been in the works for a little while now. The truck developed an intermittent CEL which I initially attributed to a loose fuel cap since the truck was running great. After replacing the cap, I found out that it was due to something else. After scanning for codes, the ECU threw a P1445 which in Toyotas is a Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve No.2 Stuck Close Bank 2. After researching the issue, I found out that the air injection system is an emissions’ based system that basically diverts air during cold start to get the cats up to operating temperature more quickly. The system is notorious for failure on Toyota V8’s, especially among the Tundra crowd and it’s a very expensive fix because of the locations of the components that are prone to failure. It basically requires a top end tear down to get to the components because they’re located beneath the intake manifold and people say the dealership quotes them $2500-4000 for the job (not that I would have had a dealership fix it). There was even a campaign on the Tundra side to extend warranties in order to fix this issue, but of course the V8 4Runner crowd got no love.
A lot of Tundra guys unplug their air pumps as a preventative measure to guard against failure. They live with a CEL and plug it back in when they go in for inspection. I, being in the lovely “inspection free” state of South Carolina, could have cared less about a stupid, unnecessary, emissions based, California, tree hugging system, especially if I had to pay 3 grand to replace a $100 part. Apparently my valve was stuck in the optimal position though, because if it had failed in the other condition (stuck open?) it would have caused the truck to go into “limp mode”. I had a mind to leave it be and live with the light, but I’m pretty anal. Further research led me to some user based work-arounds that some of the Tundra guys developed. Which led me to this thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/problems-warranty-issues/66938-air-injection-system-2.html
I used this fix found within the above link:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...p-simulation-circuit-diy-aip-override-1.1.pdf
The basics of it are you use a relay and resistor to fool the ECU into thinking that it’s in a condition where the AIP does not need to engage, which happens to be below 41° intake air temperature at cold start. After that, everything goes back to normal.
After scrounging around the office, I managed to dig up everything I needed. You’re basic parts list is:
- 4.7KΩ resistor
- Automotive relay with both 87 (N/O) and 87a (N/C) terminals, without a diode across the coils
- Some splice connectors
- Cutter, strippers, crimpers
- Tape, heat shrink, solder, wire ties
After the install my CEL did not go off. I drove on it for a few days to see if it would re-calibrate itself. It didn’t. I guess it stored the code. So I reset the system by disconnecting the battery and voila, no more lights! Drove on it a few days to see if it would come back and it hasn’t. Scanned for codes and it shows no codes. So far so good. I’m very happy with this fix. Just another issue to add to V8 owners lists to look out for. Also, I believe this is only applicable to the vvti equipped 2UZ’s (05’ and above). 03’s and 04’s do not have the Air Injection Pumps (don’t quote me on that). If this helps anybody, then good.
Here are some pictures of what it looks like. It’s still just rigged up right now to validate that the system works. Eventually I’ll go back and do a nice and pretty harness with soldered connections and what not:
My relay and resistor spliced into between the MAF sensor and ECU:
Coming across to the starter relay in the relay box:
Another look at the rig:
SPC Upper Control Arm Update
Background:
As you all know, the more poly bushings that you introduce to your truck, the more squeak prone they tend to become. I’ve had a rear suspension squeak that I’ve been trying to chase down for some time now and I’ve still not nailed it. Thought it was coming from the poly bushings I put in the panhard bar, but it wasn’t (well, not all of it). The front was starting to squeak as well, and it really could only be one thing, since I’ve removed my sway bar and the poly bushings along with it. My UCA’s. This was my fault since I failed to grease my driver side bushings at install, so it was inevitable that I was going to be doing it again. I had the issues with the nuts backing out on these and saw that SPC had a design update, where they went from a 4 washer design to a 2 washer design. I emailed them and they sent an update kit out to me right away. The kit consists of 4 longer pivots sleeves and 2 packs of grease:
While I had them off to do the update I made sure to grease everything really well as well as take the time to rectify some issues I had. The first was to drill and re-tap out a screw that I snapped off in the passenger side arm (the one that mounts the ABS sensor bracket). What a PITA! Be careful when you put these little screws in. The second issue was a little spot repair to the finish that was scrubbed off during the last wheeling trip when the UBJ nut came loose and the tire fell in and scrubbed the finish from the end of the arm. That was our visual indicator as to what the issue was when it happened on the trail.
Upon install, I did not torque the nuts down to spec. Instead I left the arms fairly free pivoting and locked the nut in place with a redundant nut. I’m now squeak free, in the front at least.
Front Brake Upgrade
I had to do my front brakes, not because they were due, but because of a bonehead mistake on my part that occurred during a reinstall after doing some recent work up front. That being said, I’d like to testify to the quality of Toyota OEM brake components. I did the front brakes for the first time at 75,191 miles (fresh pads, turned rotors). She’s currently at 173K, so that’s 98k miles on these pads and 173k on original rotors. Stopping 33x12.5 meats wrapped around 20” wheels, a V8, armored with a winch. At the time of this brake job the pads were still over 7mm (min spec is 4mm) and the rotors were ~ 27.25mm (min spec is 26mm), so I’m positive I could have gotten well over 100k miles on this set of pads easily. I’ll let that sink in for minute. I’m also on original calipers, knock on wood. I got over 90k miles on my first set of rear pads and the current ones are sitting @ ~ 80k miles (original rotors). My only complaint is that initial squeal you get during that first sweep in the morning. Not a huge deal, but it was sort of loud and embarrassing.
With a success story like that, I’d be best served to stick with what I know works… But alas, I decided to try the aftermarket to see what they have to offer. I went with the ever so popular EBC USR Series Sport Slotted Rotors matched with EBC 6000 series Greenstuff Pads.
We’ll see how they do.
I gave the Hi-Lift a go. Tried lifting it from the shackle. A safety tip: Always chock your tires when using these things and I would recommend not using it on a smooth surface like a shop floor. Basically this thing let go on me. Which is twice out of the 3 times I’ve used it. Floor jacks have the ability to shift with the load due to the casters. These do not because of the stationary base plates. I’ll limit my Hi-Lift usage to emergency off-road use, which it worked amazing when the situation actually arose. I’m just trying to get more comfortable with it. I also prefer to jack straight from my bumper cutout as opposed to the shackle.
Hanma Light Bar
A quick update on this, now that it’s been on the truck for almost half a year:
- The metal strips at the front top & bottom have changed to a sort of bronze color.
- The black finish has sort of dulled and faded
- It still puts out a shit-ton of light
- I’m still happy with my purchase and happy to have dealt with [MENTION=50591]gaterose[/MENTION]
Just wanted to provide a little update and info on these.
Sorry for the monster post. If anybody got anything from it, then good. I'm more or less just documenting these things for my own purposes. Off to Uwharrie this weekend with a few of my T4R guys. Thanks for looking!
But that is what sharing our mods is all about. Motivating each other to spend more money!
Hope y'all enjoyed.
