Superman3043's Build Thread

Looks great. I have a stock 2007sport v/8 2wd. Looking to do some modifications to her. Any suggestions? I will be needing tires soon and I found some 2012 4runner factory stock 20's . Will I need to lift if for the 20's?. Any suggestions on some mods would be helpful. Also I tow a a 5000 lbs boat year around. Was thinking about putting on a bigger transmission cooler maybe some drilled slotted brakes.also was thinking about getting one of those $99. Chips (any good ?) How about a cool air intake, maybe change out the muffler? She just rolled over 105k. I love her. This is my 6 Toyota wouldn't have anything else. thanks in advance:hatsoff:

Thanks man! Suggestions? Trade it for a 4WD, lol J/K. No, you don't necessarily need a lift to run 20's. It's not the wheel size that determines your lift needs, it's the tire size. So you'd be able to get away with running the factory tire size for the 20's, which is 245/60-20.

For towing, you might want to look into some Firestone airbags to help with the weight. Upgrading brakes would be a good idea. Not sure if a bigger tranny cooler is necessary, but probably couldn't hurt.

Stay away from the chips unless you just like throwing money away. Cool air intake and exhaust are good for making your truck louder, but I don't think will enhance your performance.

Glad you're enjoying her man. I feel the same way about mine. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
 
That's awesome. I'm about 30 minutes from lexington. Even if I don't have my set up by the time you're down here we should definitely meet up so I can see your setup.

Yeah for sure man we'll meet up either way i plan on being down there most of the week!
 
Front Suspension Upgrade

So first off, let me preface this post by explaining what prompted the upgrade, as I was very content with my old set-up and really wasn't looking to put any more mid-travel parts on the truck. A couple months ago I was contacted by a local member (@mcwalke2) that was interested in starting his build. After a little back and forth we started to kick around the idea that this would be a good way for us to help each other out in that he would be able to buy my current set-up from me at a great deal and that I could upgrade... Win, win. Thus the search began. Was already aware that my friend up north was selling a great rear set up, so that started the ball rolling. Just needed to figure out the front.

A few weeks ago, we had our first mod day on his truck that just consisted of a headlight restoration. His vehicle was involved in an accident that netted him a new driver side headlight, but also left him with a passenger side headlight that looked like garbage.

During photo (wish I would have snapped a before, but it slipped my mind, but trust me, it looked like ass):

QHfIIhK.jpg


Afterwards, it looked brand new:

8nR669L.jpg


So after a lot of research, here is what I came up with on the front.

For coil-overs, the brands on the table were Fox, King, and Icon. For styles I was looking at standard and remote reservoir flavors. Ended up buying the same thing that I already had on there, Fox 2.5" extended travel non-res. I decided against the reservoirs because I couldn't justify the extra couple of hundred bucks for what I do which is daily driving and slow rock crawling. Extra fluid capacity doesn't really help me as I've never experienced fade in the type of driving that I do. If I were doing high speed desert stuff, it'd be different. So the deciding factor basically boiled down to price. A common theme for my build has always been "budget conscious". I run a lot of used parts that I was able to find great deals on. I don't have the luxury of throwing an unlimited budget at my truck. I already loved my Fox's, so getting another set was really a no brainer.

After shopping around, I found what I was looking for for $1,009.95 SHIPPED at 4wheelonline.com. That's about a 22% savings off of the MSRP of $1295. I called them and their customer service was pretty good. They first told me 4-6 week lead time which I thought was a bunch of bologna. I ordered them anyway and they showed up in 6 business days.

Next to my old set:

0IN0e0a.jpg


A couple subtle differences I noticed right away. The old set up has an adjustment as well as a locking ring. The new set up only has the adjustment ring which was a new split clamping design, though you can't really see from this picture. I guess it's for quick adjustment and assembly/dis-assembly, but I'd hate to see what would happen if somebody loosened it while the coil was loaded. The new ones had a little more pre-load set from the factory then what I was running on mine currently. And the new ones were just a tad longer. Hard to tell from this angle, but I've got the top hats even, and you can see that the shock body is a little longer and coil and coil perch are just a little lower.

For upper control arms, I went with Tuff Country Uni-Ball UCA's from Suspension Connection for $450.96 plus shipping. You can actually get them at sdtrucksprings for $449.95 shipped! I knew that I wanted to upgrade to a uni-ball style arm from the ball joint set up. Other brands that were on the table were Fabtech, Camburg, Icon, All-Pro, Desert Products, Total Chaos, Readylift & Pro Comp. I'm really a big fan of the boxed style like the Desert Products and Readylift, but again the decision ultimately boiled down to price, and I was able to find these for just a little bit more than an SPC or Camburg with a ball joint type. I've not heard of these and don't know of anybody that runs them so I literally know nothing about them, but I was willing to roll the dice and be the guinea pig for this price. I figure if anything, I'll at least be doing the community a service by either being able to tell folks to steer clear of a bad product or be able to offer a more cost effective solution to the folks.

Next to my SPC Light Racing arms (These are not the same side):

B4ftNgx.jpg


These say they're designed for vehicles with 2-4" of lift.

My initial thoughts:

The Bad
- The finish wasn't what I'd call perfect. Just some weld spatter, surface imperfections and some areas where the powder coat was flaking off from either not adhering to the sharp edges or may have been damaged by pressing the uni-ball in. Doesn't bother me, since working with powder coat for pretty much my entire career, I understand the nature of it and I'm not a too picky about a fabricated part looking perfect, but it was worth noting.

- Suspension Connection says 3-8 days lead time. Mine made it in 7 which fell within that window, but I was banking on them making it in 6 business days, which ultimately caused me to push my install back almost a week. This really isn't a reflection of the product or even Tuff Country, more of the supplier I ordered the parts from, but I was kind of pissed by it.

- The inserts with the taper that mate to the spindle were very thin at the tip, so they were sort of deformed. Easy fix though, I just pounded the bolt through them from both sides to form them back to round.

The Good

- Grease fitting on the bushing rings. Not really sure who else does this, but it's a nice feature.

- These appear to have come with Total Chaos bushings because the had a TC-002 Part number on them. And I think these were actually Nylatron not Polyurethane.

- Uniball

- Price

- Don't know if they always do this or if it was a mistake during packing, but they sent me two complete sets of bushings, grease fittings and bushing sleeves. So I'll have an extra set if I ever need to rebuild the bushings and then some.

- They pivot very smooth after install. I remember the SPC ones binding from torquing... I think it was with the bad bushing set up though. Probably why some people had failures as well. I believe the update fixed it, but these did not have that issue at all.

-Gusseted connection from arm to bushing ring for added strength.

New parts installed:

j5Ti45V.jpg


First Impressions

- The UCA (uniball-cup) will smack the coil at full droop. These coil-overs have a lot of travel.

- The ride is a great deal softer than my old set up. Which confirms my thoughts that my blue coil-overs where valved very stiff as well as probably have heavier coils than these. This equates to these being a lot faster reacting and smoother, but I've got some added body roll for sure.

- They also seem to be quieter. The blue ones have that occasional "clunk" that is sometimes associated with coil-overs. Haven't heard it here yet.

- I believe these were set up from the factory for 3" of lift or so for a stock V6 FJ, Taco, or 4Runner, but not for a V8 with a bumper and winch. So I lost about 1" of height at the current setting, but I've also gained about 1-1/2" of droop from the lower ride height and slightly longer shock.

So that's it for now. Proper shake down will happen at the end of the month on our Uwharrie trip. Truck is getting aligned as we speak. Will probably try to live with the lower height/addition droop for now and see how I like it before any adjusting. Doesn't appear to be any additional rubbing (maybe even less).
 
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The headlights came out great!

Swapped from reg extended Fox to the extended travel version huh, Seems odd they're set at a higher preload and you lost lift height. Must be a big difference in coil rate. I think most Fox shocks are 600 lbs coils and tuned pretty soft. That would mean the ride will be very soft/plush with a lot of body roll and less stable at higher speeds in turns. :lookout: I would of went with a heavier coil but that's me. I'm sure the extra travel will pay off. Interested to see the specs on the new ones.

I like the uniball UCA upgrade. Never heard of the brand but the design seems similar as mention to others. Glad you got rid of the SPC light racing ones and hope these work out. :reddance:

Can't wait for the shake down URE run,

:bathbaby:
 
The headlights came out great!

Swapped from reg extended Fox to the extended travel version huh, Seems odd they're set at a higher preload and you lost lift height. Must be a big difference in coil rate. I think most Fox shocks are 600 lbs coils and tuned pretty soft. That would mean the ride will be very soft/plush with a lot of body roll and less stable at higher speeds in turns. :lookout: I would of went with a heavier coil but that's me. I'm sure the extra travel will pay off. Interested to see the specs on the new ones.

I like the uniball UCA upgrade. Never heard of the brand but the design seems similar as mention to others. Glad you got rid of the SPC light racing ones and hope these work out. :reddance:

Can't wait for the shake down URE run,

:bathbaby:

Actually my old ones are extended travel as well. I think they just had stiffer valving and 650# coils and these are 600#. If I feel like getting some heavier coils I will in the future. I know what you would have done Bobby, you've got the stiffest coils ever, front and rear, on your rig lol.

I like the new UCA's as well. Yeah they all seem similar to me spec wise, so I just decided to save some coin and try something that nobody else is running. I've heard of the brand, just never see Toyota guys run their products.

I can't wait to get my rear links finished AND to get to URE at the end of the month. So I hear we're hanging out with you guys tomorrow. Cool.
 
If that's what you wanted than rock on. :snacker:


I do have the heavy duty set up that was designed for my truck. I also weigh a great deal more than most rigs. With 200 lbs full length skids, 70lbs rock sliders, 200 lbs bumper/winch. 80 lbs roof rack. 280 lbs rear bumper (coming one day), with all of that said my rig rides very good and can handle extra weight during all coniditons. :D


Yep yep, guess i'll see you tomorrow for sure.


Bobby
 
Since the UCA is touching the coils during full extention/droop will you need to add limit straps or something to prevent them from hitting, and how does the cv axles look when fulling drooped? I would let them droop completely and rotate the wheel to see if the cv will have an issue fulling extended. They must have more travel then the old ones if you are hitting on the coils now or the UCA was not designed prperly for an extended version of coilovers.
 
I also weigh a great deal more than most rigs. With 200 lbs full length skids, 70lbs rock sliders, 200 lbs bumper/winch. 80 lbs roof rack. 280 lbs rear bumper (coming one day), with all of that said my rig rides very good and can handle extra weight during all coniditons.

Bobby

Now you just need some gears to help that V6 lug all the weight around lol.

Since the UCA is touching the coils during full extention/droop will you need to add limit straps or something to prevent them from hitting, and how does the cv axles look when fulling drooped? I would let them droop completely and rotate the wheel to see if the cv will have an issue fulling extended. They must have more travel then the old ones if you are hitting on the coils now or the UCA was not designed prperly for an extended version of coilovers.

No I don't plan on adding limit straps, just gonna let that joker kiss if it wants to. CV's look fine. And yes, they ARE a little longer than the old ones like I said, but it's just the nature of the Uni-ball bearing cup. It just takes up more space the the BJ set up when it is located where it needs to be for proper suspension geometry. Not gonna worry about it unless it becomes a problem. Longer shocks as well as the additional range of motion of the uniball vs the BJ just means that I'm getting everything I can out of the stock suspension geometry.
 
Word up, yeah gears & lockers are in my future but right now she pulls just fine. Slow and reliable :wink2:

Seems like something would bind if it's hitting the coils. Is the UCA spindle bucket or uniball hitting the spindle as well under full droop? That would cause stress on the uniball, or I would think it would as least.

Wish I knew about the upgrades. I could have tried to come give you a hand or at least watched and directed,lol. I have been doing some small things to mine in the dark lately. :lol:


Bobby
 
Seems like something would bind if it's hitting the coils. Is the UCA spindle bucket or uniball hitting the spindle as well under full droop? That would cause stress on the uniball, or I would think it would as least.

Wish I knew about the upgrades. I could have tried to come give you a hand or at least watched and directed,lol. I have been doing some small things to mine in the dark lately. :lol:


Bobby

What do you think would bind? No, nothing hit's the spindle, you can see the clearance in the picture, that's full extension. It's just a physical stop, that's all. Just like when the rear lower link stops on the axle, the reason the metal tech links are offset.

Yeah, I did it during the day yesterday so you were probably still at work. I've done front suspension enough to where I'm comfortable going at it alone, though Matt was there as a spare set of hands.

If you're really itching to get your hands dirty, we'll be doing his install at dad's on Sunday. Might be too many chef's in that kitchen though lol.
 
Enjoyed reading this thread... I live in the North Charlotte area, where are y'all located? I feel like your build is about 5 years ahead of mine. No rush.
 
The reason the Metaltech lower links are offset is so they do not hit the axle and bind. Binding would be the link hits the axle and the suspension continues to travel putting stress on the bushing and link mount. I would assume the same stress would translate into the uca hitting the coils.


In in the Charlotte area and PD is just south of me In the lake Wylie/ Clover SC area.


Bobby
 
Enjoyed reading this thread... I live in the North Charlotte area, where are y'all located? I feel like your build is about 5 years ahead of mine. No rush.

Thanks man! We're all in the Charlotte area. Man I had my truck for 5 years and 150,000 miles before I ever did any "building"... No rush at all.
 
The reason the Metaltech lower links are offset is so they do not hit the axle and bind. Binding would be the link hits the axle and the suspension continues to travel putting stress on the bushing and link mount. I would assume the same stress would translate into the uca hitting the coils.


In in the Charlotte area and PD is just south of me In the lake Wylie/ Clover SC area.


Bobby

Thank you for explaining "binding" bud.
 
I didn't know there were so many members local to Charlotte. I'm in the university area, we should plan a group trip out to URE sometime. I've been several times but stayed on falls damn, wolf den and rocky mtn loop. Not braze enough to face Daniel yet lol
 
I didn't know there were so many members local to Charlotte. I'm in the university area, we should plan a group trip out to URE sometime. I've been several times but stayed on falls damn, wolf den and rocky mtn loop. Not braze enough to face Daniel yet lol

Yup, lots of us on here. I've met some really good friends through this forum. Funny you mention it...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/off-r...-uwharrie-national-forest-run-11-29-14-a.html
[MENTION=100415]t4rghost[/MENTION], [MENTION=73475]DaChamp[/MENTION], and anybody else who reads this build, post there if you can make it.
 
Actually my old ones are extended travel as well. I think they just had stiffer valving and 650# coils and these are 600#. If I feel like getting some heavier coils I will in the future. I know what you would have done Bobby, you've got the stiffest coils ever, front and rear, on your rig lol.

I like the new UCA's as well. Yeah they all seem similar to me spec wise, so I just decided to save some coin and try something that nobody else is running. I've heard of the brand, just never see Toyota guys run their products.

I can't wait to get my rear links finished AND to get to URE at the end of the month. So I hear we're hanging out with you guys tomorrow. Cool.

how are the uca's in terms of added caster? alignment specs all good? these seem like an awesome option
 
how are the uca's in terms of added caster? alignment specs all good? these seem like an awesome option

Ah, GREAT question! So the alignment specs came in and it appears I lost a degree of caster taking me out of spec and that is with the 1" reduction in lift height, which to me would initially signify no bueno... Let's say I was at 2.5 deg caster (just within spec) at last alignment with my LR UCA's and this one I was about 1.5 deg even after having gone from say 3.5" to 2.5" of lift we'll just say for arguments sake (I could have gone from 3 to 2 or 4 to 3 but whatever it was).

So this would appear to be the first knock on the product, BUT tbh the truck drives great! Steering feel is the same, not any lighter or heavier. Vehicle tracks the same. Turning radius seems to have improved some and my body mount rubbing seems to have disappeared with the decrease in caster angle.

I'm in the process of contacting Tuff Country right now to see if they were actually supposed to add additional caster or see what they're supposed to do at all concerning the geometry because to me this would signify a pivot location close to stock. I do remember reading in my research of others putting other aftermarket uni-ball UCA's on their truck and it not improving caster numbers as well. We'll see.
 
Ah, GREAT question! So the alignment specs came in and it appears I lost a degree of caster taking me out of spec and that is with the 1" reduction in lift height, which to me would initially signify no bueno... Let's say I was at 2.5 deg caster (just within spec) at last alignment with my LR UCA's and this one I was about 1.5 deg even after having gone from say 3.5" to 2.5" of lift we'll just say for arguments sake (I could have gone from 3 to 2 or 4 to 3 but whatever it was).

So this would appear to be the first knock on the product, BUT tbh the truck drives great! Steering feel is the same, not any lighter or heavier. Vehicle tracks the same. Turning radius seems to have improved some and my body mount rubbing seems to have disappeared with the decrease in caster angle.

I'm in the process of contacting Tuff Country right now to see if they were actually supposed to add additional caster or see what they're supposed to do at all concerning the geometry because to me this would signify a pivot location close to stock. I do remember reading in my research of others putting other aftermarket uni-ball UCA's on their truck and it not improving caster numbers as well. We'll see.

well its a positive and a negative at the same time since your driving feel is no worse. i wonder what their reply will be, I'm curious to hear. I'm really hopeful that they have added caster built in so they can be a viable option!
 

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