Surf BS Thread

Avid snowboarder here. Just moved from CO to Charleston, SC so I'm hoping to hear some tips needed to start (like how to read waves, weather, etc). Supposedly, Folly Beach (The Washout) is a pretty solid surf spot. And I live less than 5 miles from it.

I have a pretty addictive personality, so my goal is to take a lesson or two, then buy a gently used board. I have 4 snowboards for different conditions; park (rocker), groomer/ bomber (a flat and a camber), and a pow board. All different profiles and lengths. Are surf boards the same regarding size? Obviously, the shorter ones are more maneuverable (and maybe less stable?)... but do you give up buoyancy? I see y'all have several surf boards too...



I just need to get on a board until I can get back to CO for a few weeks this winter. :crybaby:
 
theMayor said:
Avid snowboarder here. Just moved from CO to Charleston, SC so I'm hoping to hear some tips needed to start (like how to read waves, weather, etc). Supposedly, Folly Beach (The Washout) is a pretty solid surf spot. And I live less than 5 miles from it.

I have a pretty addictive personality, so my goal is to take a lesson or two, then buy a gently used board. I have 4 snowboards for different conditions; park (rocker), groomer/ bomber (a flat and a camber), and a pow board. All different profiles and lengths. Are surf boards the same regarding size? Obviously, the shorter ones are more maneuverable (and maybe less stable?)... but do you give up buoyancy? I see y'all have several surf boards too...
Click to expand...

The cheesy saying that surfing is a language is pretty valid. It takes time and the best way to learn is by immersion. With wave reading, you'll find that every break has its own quirks. Spent a LOT of time looking at waves. When you're tired and doing more sitting than surfing, sit and watch the waves. There is a great book called Surf Science. It does a great job at explaining all of the science variables. I highly recommend picking it up.

Your greatest hurdle will be paddling and catching waves. Your snowboarding background will give you good rail feel on a board. What is hard is getting used to rails that are significantly thicker and how to use boards with fins.

As far as boards, you are correct. There's really no such thing as a do everything board. And you know that's true in snowboarding as well. You've got the right plan. Get something with good length and volume and get in the water. While you may get to a point where you start to ride other boards, it's highly unlikely your skills will every outgrow the board. You can find footage of Jaime O'Brien ripping barreling Pipeline on a soft top Wavestorm.

https://www.amazon.com/Surf-Science...8&qid=1504284256&sr=1-1&keywords=surf+science
 
Man.. I need to get back out in the water. It's been about a month now.
It's possible I have forgotten how to swim it feels like so long ago. :(
 
Loving this season on the East Coast. Hurricane season is definitely in full force, heading down to Wilmington, NC to meet some buddies tonight, then heading further south to surf what Irma has to offer.

In other news, did a EuroTrip this July-August and got to surf in the Mediterranean. Surfed Barcelona, small but a few fun lines and it was my first time surfing the Eastern Hemisphere.
 
Anyone been getting any fun stuff? [MENTION=56396]Hepar[/MENTION] [MENTION=120445]genmarks[/MENTION] [MENTION=113035]BoarderDave[/MENTION]
Mid-Atlantic has been going crazy. Scored big time this weekend in Surf City, Emerald Isle, and Wilmington, NC.
Irma definitely did us right, praying for the Caribbean and Florida though. Looks like Jose is the next storm, been watching the charts and it looks like it'll circle around off the coast for a bit, hopefully producing some good swell.
Here's one morning at Masonboro. Super fun stuff, plenty of really good sections were to be had.
One small casualty Saturday night when the winds started picking up. Went for a risky section, wind caught the board and flipped it, fin to the leg. Sucks cause it was a new board but should have it repaired in no time.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/150884531@N04/37002923822/in/dateposted-public/" title="finbox"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/37002923822_dd626efd34_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="finbox"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Sounds like some fun crazy surf for yall..

Nothin to speak of for me. But that's summer 'round Los Angeles. :yo: Crowds get crazy, black ball flags start flying blocking all surfers into small areas, and swell starts to minimize.
And I'm too lazy of a surfer to travel down south (to Trestles and San Clemente area) for where it actually breaks. hah. I think the WSL is there right now tearing waves up.

Now that summer is closing out - we should start to see more swell hitting my local spots here and I'll get back out there. :cheers:
 

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MattJakobs said:
Anyone been getting any fun stuff?
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Haven't been in the water since August. My September is f'd as well as the beginning of October. Hoping to get into the water mid-Oct.

MattJakobs said:
Went for a risky section, wind caught the board and flipped it, fin to the leg. Sucks cause it was a new board but should have it repaired in no time.
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That sucks, but doesn't look too bad. I hate FCS fin plugs.

BoarderDave said:
Now that summer is closing out - we should start to see more swell hitting my local spots here and I'll get back out there. :cheers:
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Double over knee!
 
Hepar said:
Haven't been in the water since August. My September is f'd as well as the beginning of October. Hoping to get into the water mid-Oct.



That sucks, but doesn't look too bad. I hate FCS fin plugs.
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Got out of the water right after it happened. Just dropped it off at my shapers house so I should be up and running with that board this weekend.

I really like those fusion boxes. Hated their original plug though. The way it happened, I think it would've happened with a future box as well.
 
MattJakobs said:
Got out of the water right after it happened. Just dropped it off at my shapers house so I should be up and running with that board this weekend.

I really like those fusion boxes. Hated their original plug though. The way it happened, I think it would've happened with a future box as well.
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Definitely agree that the fusion boxes are better. Just not a fan of how they secure fins.

But I also don't have the best luck with Futures boxes either...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54400273@N03/37047070021/in/dateposted-public/" title="unnamed"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/37047070021_f6579a7722_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="unnamed"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
MattJakobs said:
Got out of the water right after it happened. Just dropped it off at my shapers house so I should be up and running with that board this weekend.

I really like those fusion boxes. Hated their original plug though. The way it happened, I think it would've happened with a future box as well.
Click to expand...

Hepar said:
Definitely agree that the fusion boxes are better. Just not a fan of how they secure fins.

But I also don't have the best luck with Futures boxes either...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/54400273@N03/37047070021/in/dateposted-public/" title="unnamed"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/37047070021_f6579a7722_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="unnamed"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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crazy stuff, i was gonna say Im all about futures, but the last picture would have put me to shame haha. I have always like the selection that futures had and well despite the last picture they have always seen stronger to me, as my fins tend to eat rocks and reef a whole lot.
 
Hepar said:
Definitely agree that the fusion boxes are better. Just not a fan of how they secure fins.

But I also don't have the best luck with Futures boxes either...
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genmarks said:
crazy stuff, i was gonna say Im all about futures, but the last picture would have put me to shame haha. I have always like the selection that futures had and well despite the last picture they have always seen stronger to me, as my fins tend to eat rocks and reef a whole lot.
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I actually like the way FCS secures fins. I hate digging futures out of there boxes if they've been in there for a while.

I like Julian Wilson's fins too much to switch to futures. They're my go to fin unless it's super big and punchy, then I ride Mick Fannings. They seem to hold better but aren't as forgiving as the JW's.

I really like John Johns fins for futures though. Ridden a buddy's board with them and they feel really good.
 
genmarks said:
crazy stuff, i was gonna say Im all about futures, but the last picture would have put me to shame haha. I have always like the selection that futures had and well despite the last picture they have always seen stronger to me, as my fins tend to eat rocks and reef a whole lot.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I'd say the issue in the pic was far more board construction related than fin box related.

MattJakobs said:
I actually like the way FCS secures fins. I hate digging futures out of there boxes if they've been in there for a while.
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I will agree with you there on how futures can get a bit sticky. Which is why I'm super anal about always removing my fins when not in use.
 
MattJakobs said:
I actually like the way FCS secures fins. I hate digging futures out of there boxes if they've been in there for a while.

I like Julian Wilson's fins too much to switch to futures. They're my go to fin unless it's super big and punchy, then I ride Mick Fannings. They seem to hold better but aren't as forgiving as the JW's.

I really like John Johns fins for futures though. Ridden a buddy's board with them and they feel really good.
Click to expand...

Hepar said:
Honestly, I'd say the issue in the pic was far more board construction related than fin box related.



I will agree with you there on how futures can get a bit sticky. Which is why I'm super anal about always removing my fins when not in use.
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This is true, once they sit for a while they suck to get out. I have had to pound them out before with shoes and things hoping it would not damage my board. My last board I got off craigslist had the FCS 2 system that pops in and I was very unfamiliar with it. I eventually lost two fins while surfing, and I was told after that I can still screw an allen into the spring side, wish I would have known that before haha.
I have ridden both the julian and jjf models and i must say they are both great!
 
Board dropped off at shaper's house. Been trying to work with him but his lead times suck. 10-14 days to fix that guy. Bummer as shit as it's been my primary good wave board. And Jose is off the coast producing swell.

Time to buy some more Mayhems!
 
Hepar said:
Honestly, I'd say the issue in the pic was far more board construction related than fin box related.

I will agree with you there on how futures can get a bit sticky. Which is why I'm super anal about always removing my fins when not in use.
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You sir, have far more patience than me. When driving around to different spots surfing all day. Taking fins in and out 5 times is just annoying. And on trips that we end up camping a few nights and having 6-8 little sessions, that salt gets in there and dries up a ton.
 
MattJakobs said:
You sir, have far more patience than me. When driving around to different spots surfing all day. Taking fins in and out 5 times is just annoying. And on trips that we end up camping a few nights and having 6-8 little sessions, that salt gets in there and dries up a ton.
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Oh I definitely don't remove them between sessions. Once they're in on a trip, they're in for the whole trip. I just never store them with fins in. I've never had an issued on them staying in for several days. I also think the Pacific coast has less of a salt issue than the Atlantic.
 
Hepar said:
Oh I definitely don't remove them between sessions. Once they're in on a trip, they're in for the whole trip. I just never store them with fins in. I've never had an issued on them staying in for several days. I also think the Pacific coast has less of a salt issue than the Atlantic.
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Down where I was this weekend, Emerald Isle and Surf City, the salt content was crazy. We surfed Surf City in the morning and then headed to Emerald Isle for a break that handled the wind better. When changing in the parking lot I checked my watch to see the time and it was glazed over with dried salt. Thought it was busted and filled with condensation but it was just salt dried up on the face.
 
Wow, yeah that does look fun..

I FINALLY got out for a paddle yesterday. Always love getting back in the water. We dont have swell right now.. but it was a sunny day 71* air, 69* water, and 1-3' waves.. So I played around for a couple hours. All in all - can't be mad at a fun Friday afternoon session in the water. :yo:
 
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