Surf BS Thread

[Hepar]

Wow, yeah that does look fun..

I FINALLY got out for a paddle yesterday. Always love getting back in the water. We dont have swell right now.. but it was a sunny day 71* air, 69* water, and 1-3' waves.. So I played around for a couple hours. All in all - can't be mad at a fun Friday afternoon session in the water. :yo:

Nice! I was finally able to get into the water too. Been way too long. Amazing evening session. You can just see a few bodies in the water. Fun morning session too, but not as good.

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[BoarderDave]

We're supposed to be seeing an uptick tonight through early next week. Should make for some real fun surf this weekend! Something like 3-5' and Fair-Good conditions.. :nod:

Hoping to report back next week about the fun I had! :yo:

 

[MattJakobs]

Well September was a pretty great month haha. 5 storms bringing lots of fun. Not sure if I’ve ever been this surfed out, and that includes going on trips. Feels good haha.
Surfline did a feature on it HERE. Spent all my time in North Carolina.

We're supposed to be seeing an uptick tonight through early next week. Should make for some real fun surf this weekend! Something like 3-5' and Fair-Good conditions.. :nod:

Hoping to report back next week about the fun I had! :yo:

And???

holy crap that looks super fun! worst thing to see while in class haha!!

It sucked but I got my fair share of waves. There may have been a few waves where I yew'ed under my breath watching that.

Stoked for winter?

 

[genmarks]

Stoked for winter?

Cant wait for winter! it has been one of the slowest summers ever over here so I am just dying for good waves. I am also in desperate need of a bigger board. Without surfing I get fat and definitely could use some more volume

 

[Hepar]

Last weekend saw the perfect swell to get inside our Strait. Super clean and fun. Headed back out this weekend. Swell report looks meh, but just want to get back into the water.

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[MattJakobs]

Cant wait for winter! it has been one of the slowest summers ever over here so I am just dying for good waves. I am also in desperate need of a bigger board. Without surfing I get fat and definitely could use some more volume

Been thinking about upping my volume, especially with winter coming. 200lbs plus a 5/4/3 doesn’t float well on 28L. Want to push it up to 30L but I’m afraid it’ll be too much

Last weekend saw the perfect swell to get inside our Strait. Super clean and fun. Headed back out this weekend. Swell report looks meh, but just want to get back into the water.

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Looks fun enough for me.

Wearing a suit yet?

 

[Hepar]

Looks fun enough for me.

Wearing a suit yet?

The only time I don't wear a suit is when I go to Mexico. It's just a matter of if it's a 4/3 or a 5/4. For me on a standup, it's actually more on if I need to wear booties or not.

 

[Hepar]

Not to mention that break is at the mouth of a river that is all glacier runoff, so the water temps are FREEZING.

 

[MattJakobs]

The only time I don't wear a suit is when I go to Mexico. It's just a matter of if it's a 4/3 or a 5/4. For me on a standup, it's actually more on if I need to wear booties or not.

Damn. I hate anything above my 2/2 short-sleeve full. Couldn't imagine being in at least a 4/3 year round. Ever get colder than 5/4 weather where you just deem it not worth it or is 5/4 weather the coldest it gets.

Has to be pumping or a solid winter storm for me to suit up in my 5/4/3 with booties and gloves.

 

[Hepar]

Damn. I hate anything above my 2/2 short-sleeve full. Couldn't imagine being in at least a 4/3 year round. Ever get colder than 5/4 weather where you just deem it not worth it or is 5/4 weather the coldest it gets.

Has to be pumping or a solid winter storm for me to suit up in my 5/4/3 with booties and gloves.

I've never needed anything more than my 5/4. It's a Rip Curl Flash Bomb, so it has the fleece lining, which I think helps. But my favorite piece of winter tech is my headed wetsuit vest. It's amazing. I'll even wear it in the summer. With that on I can usually drop a mm in suit for whatever the conditions may call for.

 

[BoarderDave]

And???

So awesome to hear of your great month of surf. Ive been seeing plenty of pics coming from over there through the surfing channels online.

I've only been getting surf time the last three Fridays (which isn't as great as I want, but 3 more times than I was getting before! hah).
1st Friday (Sept 29th) - small and smashing on the inside. Not much to ride and short rides when I got em. Meh.. It was a pretty day in the water though so I'll take it.
2nd Friday (Oct 6th) - larger and still smashing on the inside. The insiders I caught were fun - but mostly the big cleanup sets on the outside were just damaging me. hah. Paying more than I was playing.
3rd Friday (Oct 13th) - medium sized and fun. Tide was filling in so longer I was in the water the better it was getting. Corners here and there and some enjoyable ones in between pitching walls. hah. Starting to get my sea-legs back.

Oh and just to scale - I'm not a big wave surfer so my scale is: Sml 1-3', Med 2-4', Lrg 4'-6', 7'+ I'm watching from shore. hah

Last weekend saw the perfect swell to get inside our Strait. Super clean and fun. Headed back out this weekend. Swell report looks meh, but just want to get back into the water.

That vid looks like fun! Crazy to hear how cold it is.. haha. But without thinking of the cold - it looks like a blast! I'd surf it for sure.

 

[JohnWilson]

Cool video, thanks for posting.

 

[Hepar]

Has anyone ever surfed in Peru? May try to head down there in May-ish and would love any inside information.

 

[Hepar]

PNW coast has been getting hit with its largest swell in 3+ years. Coast proper is completely unsurfable (first pic is off the coast of La Push, WA) but if you know the right spot, amazing...



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[BoarderDave]

Wowww.. I've been seeing some incredible shots of this latest west coast thing. Sooo cool.
I have not been in the water. It's over my abilities/current physical fitness.. hah


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[Hepar]

Wowww.. I've been seeing some incredible shots of this latest west coast thing. Sooo cool.
I have not been in the water. It's over my abilities/current physical fitness.. hah


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Anything specific keeping you out of the water? For me it's the temps. Extra motivation is needed when dealing with the chilly temps.

 

[BoarderDave]

Anything specific keeping you out of the water? For me it's the temps. Extra motivation is needed when dealing with the chilly temps.

Yeah.. it's a combo of the current air temps (water temp isn't too horrible here even in the dead of winter) plus increased work-life. Took on new responsibilities at work so my Mon-Fridays are a bit more busy/stressful so far this year, so come Saturday morning - my eyes open and I'm like... Do I REALLY want to go out in the cold and surf... or catch up on rest and stay warm? Okay. Zzzzzzzz.. :biggrin1:

Plus all my surf buddies who usually text me and badger me to come out all had their 2nd kids this year. So none of them are currently surfing either.

:smow:

 

[Hepar]

[MENTION=150371]Wavechaser[/MENTION], you still around? I've got a few questions for you if you are. Last year I bought a JP Surf Slate 7'2"x26" 91l. I love it. It's a perfect summer PNW board as the swells are usually quite small. I've been wanting to find the 7'6"x28" for a buddy of mine, but have had little luck tracking one down. Another option is the Simsup S5. Any experience with them?

 

[BoarderDave]

Finally got out to surf yesterday after a longggg dry spell. Last time was the Thanksgiving weekend.

Anyways.. was only like 1-3' waves but it was 75* air and sunny.. buoys called it 62* water.. glasssssy smooth and great water visibility. All around a wonderful condition to be paddling out in for the first time back in way too long.
Scored a bunch of fun little waves, saw a few dolphins, minimal crowd traffic.
Had a blast. I'm all sore today so that's a good sign that I was working the right muscles. Stoked.

Hope everyone else is out there getting some too.

 

[Hepar]

Finally got out to surf yesterday after a longggg dry spell. Last time was the Thanksgiving weekend.

Anyways.. was only like 1-3' waves but it was 75* air and sunny.. buoys called it 62* water.. glasssssy smooth and great water visibility. All around a wonderful condition to be paddling out in for the first time back in way too long.
Scored a bunch of fun little waves, saw a few dolphins, minimal crowd traffic.
Had a blast. I'm all sore today so that's a good sign that I was working the right muscles. Stoked.

Hope everyone else is out there getting some too.

Sounds like a great re-entry! Just got back from Mexico. Waves were definitely on the small side. But no complaints. Especially with the price of tequila...