Suspension Replacement - What new parts

[MDVDuber]

Hello, Just got a quote from a local shop for $851 for a strut/shock replacement - with bottom of the line Monroe shocks! Yikes - I figure a day (or less) of my time to do it myself makes good $ense!

I have a FJ replacement set up with about 6K on it, but was thinking about going with Bilstein HD's and the FJ springs instead of the stock "black" dampers.

I really don't want to lift it - this is a secondary driver that sees lumber and dump runs with a once a year beach trip where we drive on the beach occasionally.

Couple Questions

1) Is the only difference between HD's and 5100's the ability to get some height adjustment in the front? Or are the 5100's stiffer dampers?

2) What other parts should I consider replacing when I do the job. I don't want to have to stop halfway through and try to source parts at the last minute.

I already have spring compressors, air tools and a complete Metric wrench, socket etc. set. This won't be my first suspension install -just the first on the 4Runner.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Greg

 

[chaz]

5100s will be nice with the FJ coils. front 5100 r different than HD, rears r the same. this thread will give the compared rates of HD vs 5100. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspension/84359-hd-5100-5160-bilstein-valve-rates.html

 

[gm350reratliff]

Thats a pretty high price to pay. Is alignment included? Most of it is labor I bet. For a little under $400 you could have yourself Bilsteins all around. I run the 5100s + FJ springs and love the ride but I'm sure the same could be said for the HDs. Before you order your parts, crawl under the 4runner and check all the suspension bushings, rubber spring isolators, jack it up and check for bearing and balljoint play. Also, I see that you are from Maryland so I would start spraying any bolts and nuts that you would think you may have to remove with some penetrating oil now until you swap hardware. I would also check for any bolts/nuts that look like even with the oil they may be to far gone to reuse and source new ones to replace with. Don't forget you should get an alignment when you are finished.

 

[glock56534]

to add to what gm350reratliff said, I would have plenty of Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil and/or Marvel Mystery Oil on hand.

It will make your job much easier letting all of the nuts soak in some penetrating oil before trying to loosen them.

Also, this one is pretty obvious, but a few good jacks and jack stands are a good idea. The higher you get your truck, the easier your job will be.

Another good "tool" is a long pipe to go over your breaker bar to give your more leverage. Some of those nuts are damn near impossible to get loose.

Good luck!

 

[MDVDuber]

Thanks! - I've been here before on a couple of my VW's so yes Liquid Wrench is my friend - especially on an older one that I sourced back home from the Maine Seacoast - talk about RUST!

I'll take a look at the parts mentioned - thanks for the pointers.

Thanks too for the link to the 5100 vs HD info - I couldn't seem to come up with it in a search yesterday.

Funny part of the whole shop thing was that most of the cost was for the Monroe dampers! I'm tight for free time right now, but not so tight that I'll throw away good money on crap components. You should have seen my face when he quoted me the price!!!

Thanks again for all the input.