Switched to synthetic and now burning oil.

[02SE]

I owned a '95 740iL with that engine. It purred on Mobil 1 15w50.

 

[LittleCaesar]

To each his own I guess. I usually find an oil that mates well with the engine and stick with it.

I have been using Mobil 1 since 96, when there was only one grade of synthetic and the caps were different colors. The oil was about $13 back then.

As far as M60 engines go, my uncle had a 740 with one in it. Beginning in 2001 his mechanic used only Castrol 0w-30 in it for 8,000 mile intervals. In 05 we pulled the valve cover and it was spotless. I love that oil, especially when it was green in color.

 

[02SE]

As far as M60 engines go, my uncle had a 740 with one in it. Beginning in 2001 his mechanic used only Castrol 0w-30 in it for 8,000 mile intervals. In 05 we pulled the valve cover and it was spotless. I love that oil, especially when it was green in color.

The so-called German Castrol. There were people that imbued that oil with mythical qualities.

Did your Uncle have any issues with the Nikasil bore coating? Mine was a '95, which I bought in '97 from the original owner, that had his engine replaced under warranty due to the problem with high-sulfur fuels.

 

[mxer]

The so-called German Castrol. There were people that imbued that oil with mythical qualities.

I guess you ignore actual data from UOAs.

 

[02SE]

I guess you ignore actual data from UOAs.

Nope, and I never said there was anything wrong with Castrol 0w30. It's a fine oil.

I just know from my time as an ASE Master Tech, and during and since that time having built hundreds of engines, and having studied Tribology fairly extensively to further my knowledge in that area, that there are soooo many variables, that a single or even multiple UOA's doesn't tell the whole story.

 

[LittleCaesar]

The so-called German Castrol. There were people that imbued that oil with mythical qualities.

Did your Uncle have any issues with the Nikasil bore coating? Mine was a '95, which I bought in '97 from the original owner, that had his engine replaced under warranty due to the problem with high-sulfur fuels.

I will have to ask him over Xmas time. I think he had it from 99 to 05. If I remember the sulfur in the fuels ate the coating, causing low compression, and ultimately the car not starting. He had an 850i previously, but it was on the verge of becoming an electrical nightmare.

I just remember how spotless the valve train was for 130k miles. And intrigued by the green tint of the Castrol 0w-30. Fun car to drive.

 

[02SE]

I will have to ask him over Xmas time. I think he had it from 99 to 05. If I remember the sulfur in the fuels ate the coating, causing low compression, and ultimately the car not starting. He had an 850i previously, but it was on the verge of becoming an electrical nightmare.

I just remember how spotless the valve train was for 130k miles. And intrigued by the green tint of the Castrol 0w-30. Fun car to drive.

Yep, that's basically what the issue was with the sulfur wearing away the Nikasil coating. I ran the Mobil 1 15w50, only because I had a bunch left over from the '95 M3 I owned previously.

BMW's are still fun cars to drive, and still seemingly prone to gremlins.

 

[T4R2014]

I owned a '95 740iL with that engine. It purred on Mobil 1 15w50.

I've thought about trying that grade but I never seem to come across it for M1. I have used Rotella T6 with great results in my M60 as well. For colder seasons the owner's manual states that 5W30 can be used. Hard to beat the $1/quart I can get on Pennzoil synthetic in that case IMO. The E38 is by far my favorite 7 series. My uncle's daily driver is an 01' 740i M-sport. It is approaching 200k at this point and runs flawlessly. He is not easy on it by any means either.

Yep, that's basically what the issue was with the sulfur wearing away the Nikasil coating. I ran the Mobil 1 15w50, only because I had a bunch left over from the '95 M3 I owned previously.

BMW's are still fun cars to drive, and still seemingly prone to gremlins.

I've thought about getting an E36 M3. They are great deals at this point. The styling never seemed to grow on me for some reason, though. I've been thinking of getting an E39 M5 as well. It has been one of those must-haves for me for quite a while. Decisions, decisions...

 

[MrRoo]

I swear by the Shell Rotela T6 synthetic. Used it for years in motorcycles and my cars. Its JASO MA certified for bikes. It's loved on many forums. For the price it cannot be beat. My LS3 in my G8 loves it.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I swear by the Shell Rotela T6 synthetic. Used it for years in motorcycles and my cars. Its JASO MA certified for bikes. It's loved on many forums. For the price it cannot be beat. My LS3 in my G8 loves it.

I use it in the Toy. As well as my 94 cummins, 1998 ZX9R, SL1 Saturn, 1970 Chevelle 396SS, 86 CJ7 4.2L. I'm thinking of switching over to in in the two 04 V8 Grand Cherokees too. Then only thing left not on it is the Sportster( which is currently using M1 15w50).

 

[Nunyabiz]

Pretty much ANY 100% synthetic is going to be better than ANY petroleum based oil.
The OP problem is no doubt the aforementioned VC gaskets and it is probably due to the synthetic oil cleaning up some varnish left by the petroleum.
May only need to tighten the covers down a touch and be fine.

Contrary to oil mythology this isn't all that common an occurrence and usually only happens to engines which were somewhat neglected got hot and roasted gaskets or let oil go a bit too far and gummed up the engine which dries out gaskets because oil cant get to it and keep it pliable.

I have been switching over to synthetic in every single car/truck even lawn mower and power washer every infernal combustion that I have owned since 1977 and have zero problems of any kind.

 

[poser]

You guys were right, valve cover is to blame. And like some of you said, the bolts were not tight at all. I snugged them down, to put a band aide on it until I can carve out the time to put on new seals.