Switches 101

jross20

jross20

New member
Alright guys, I've been reading around and trying to figure out the best way to mount extra switches in my 4R.

I noticed that some people have their diff lock button to the left, vs behind the steering wheel. I also noticed that most of you don't seem to have this little... Toyota, alarm/security microphone/speaker looking thing? Can I simply swap those or will I blow up something?

Past that, what are you guys doing as of 2019 for more switches? What kind of switches do you all use?
 
Register to hide this ad
Timely thread and subbed.

I've been thinking about this for my yet-to-be mounted light bars.

Cannot seem to find a good mounting point for the ever popular switch panels like sPOD. Really like stock switches but not sure if they would work for my application.


Eddie
 
How many switches we talking here? 1 , 3, 10?

If 1 or 2 you might be able to find a few empty slots in the dash or the console between your 2 front seats.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Personally I am a big fan of mini toggles... they are small and easy to find a place to put them.

Good mechanical switch with no extras. Inexpensive, and easy to install.

Philmore Sub-Mini Toggle Switch SPST On-Off 3A @120VAC

Philmore-Mini-Toggle-Switch-SPDT-ON-OFF-ON-5A-120v.jpg
 
jross20 said:
How are you mounting these? I like th idea but want to make sure I can mount them nicely.
:artist:
Click to expand...

You literally just drill a hole and stick it in from the back and tighten the nut & washer over the top to hold it in place.

Its pretty easy... throw it anywhere you can drill a hole, or even make a switch panel if you were so inclined.

3221-02_2048x.jpg


img0006.png
 
I've got 4 here.

cIrK9VH.jpg



And another 4 and a volt meter/usb charger here. There's also a 300w inverter in this photo. It's not the best but enlarge it and you should see them. lol

tohZteO.jpg
 
theesotericone said:
I've got 4 here.

cIrK9VH.jpg



And another 4 and a volt meter/usb charger here. There's also a 300w inverter in this photo. It's not the best but enlarge it and you should see them. lol

tohZteO.jpg
Click to expand...

What did you do with the Toyota security thing? And... What is going on with your console? Haha
 
Kinda unrelated, but does anyone know of a momentary switch that would fit one of the factory slots for the AndyMod?
 
jross20 said:
What did you do with the Toyota security thing? And... What is going on with your console? Haha
Click to expand...

My rig doesn't have a security alarm so I never had to worry about moving it.

My rig is also dual cased so that's all the levers you see coming out of the trans tunnel. The rear two sticks are the stock case with a twin stick mod. You remove the interlock pin and grind down the shift rails in the stock case. That allows me to have hi/lo on the left stick and 2wd/4wd on the right stick. The stick coming up from the stock t-case location is for the crawl box. That allows me another 2.28 lo range.

The switch plate is something I made from a piece of 1/8" polycarbonate. I heated it and bent it to fit the contours of the console. Then cut in the openings for 5 switches and the 300w inverter. The inverter is wired to a relay that it wired to ignition. It has a separate power wire going from the relay to the battery. It's only hot when ignition is on. To mount it I just pulled out the ashtray and made some mounting brackets for it using the ashtray guide as a base.

All of my switches and relays go to a blue sea fuse box under the hood. That's run to a 100A breaker, then a 100A relay. The 100A relay is also run to ignition hot. As soon as I turn my rig off all my aftermarket accessories go dead. There's zero chance of parasitic draw they way the system is set-up.
 
theesotericone said:
My rig doesn't have a security alarm so I never had to worry about moving it.

My rig is also dual cased so that's all the levers you see coming out of the trans tunnel. The rear two sticks are the stock case with a twin stick mod. You remove the interlock pin and grind down the shift rails in the stock case. That allows me to have hi/lo on the left stick and 2wd/4wd on the right stick. The stick coming up from the stock t-case location is for the crawl box. That allows me another 2.28 lo range.

The switch plate is something I made from a piece of 1/8" polycarbonate. I heated it and bent it to fit the contours of the console. Then cut in the openings for 5 switches and the 300w inverter. The inverter is wired to a relay that it wired to ignition. It has a separate power wire going from the relay to the battery. It's only hot when ignition is on. To mount it I just pulled out the ashtray and made some mounting brackets for it using the ashtray guide as a base.

All of my switches and relays go to a blue sea fuse box under the hood. That's run to a 100A breaker, then a 100A relay. The 100A relay is also run to ignition hot. As soon as I turn my rig off all my aftermarket accessories go dead. There's zero chance of parasitic draw they way the system is set-up.
Click to expand...


:zoom:

Holy shit, haha
 
jross20 said:
What's the Andy mod?
Click to expand...

Kills TRAC and VSC so you can spin tires without losing power. I want to get an OEM-looking push button made that says ENGAGE PARTY MODE (or something equally as childish) instead of the cheap rocker switch I got at the parts store.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 285 (members: 0, guests: 285)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top