Symptoms of bad steering rack and/or bushings

JWaldz

JWaldz

Moderator
So this morning I was heading to work and noticed my steering was a little tight than usual. So I ditched off a side road before getting out of my neighborhood to do some further testing. When I turn, either directions, the truck kinda bounces and I can hear my mud tires grabbing the road a lot more. I got out and noticed my passenger cv axle was leaking. I immediately figured ok, well that could be it. I replaced the cv only to find it's still doing it. So on to steering rack. Both sides are ever so slightly leaking around the boot. Did the turn wheel test the best I could and didn't really notice any play. It moves just a tad but can't imagine that's causing what's happening. The best way I can describe it is if you've ever been in 4wd on the dry road and the tires up front grab more and it's a little more difficult to turn. The slight bounce or limp I cannot explain. I did test the 4wd and everything works fine.

So, my question is.. Do I replace the steering rack/bushings or do I need to look elsewhere?

Truck has 158k on it if that helps.
 
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A bad rack will bind up on you, especially when it's cold or if you're going lock to lock while not moving. It'll also whine and almost squeal if you hold it at one lick or the other. If you're seeing the rack move, most likely bad bushings. Could also be a bad guide in the rack.
 
Ive changed my steering rack, rack bushings, and the guide all myself. And my symptoms were the opposite. Loose sloppy steering, knocking noises, etc . . . yours has completely different symptoms. But I guess it could be seizing as well. How is your power steering fluid? Is the pump working?
 
I'd suggest changing the rack bushings. Probably 2 hours at most to change, and a great improvement to the overall steering.
 
Please explain the '4WD test' you did. I wonder if you could be in 2WD at the TC but with the ADD stuck engaged. Have you put the rig in the air to spin each wheel and run the steering rack-to-rack? Wheels should be independent with the ADD disengaged. Sorry if you ruled this out already, but I'd still put it up in the air and play with it. It's not the rack bushings, although it probably needs it.
 
TheDurk said:
Please explain the '4WD test' you did. I wonder if you could be in 2WD at the TC but with the ADD stuck engaged. Have you put the rig in the air to spin each wheel and run the steering rack-to-rack? Wheels should be independent with the ADD disengaged. Sorry if you ruled this out already, but I'd still put it up in the air and play with it. It's not the rack bushings, although it probably needs it.
Click to expand...

Durk, sorry if this obvious but what is ADD? Only reason I ask is that I'm starting to suspect that my poor gas mileage is driveline/drag/friction related as opposed to engine tune at this point. For the hell of it, I put mine in 4WD yesterday, drove about a block, put it in park, put the TC in Neutral, then back in High, turned the 4WD button off, then put it in drive and drove off. It seems to "roll" a lot easier now. (If that makes any sense at all.)

I have a '97 Limited if it makes a difference with what I wrote above.
 
PitbullRescuer said:
Durk, sorry if this obvious but what is ADD?
Click to expand...

"Automatic Disconnecting Differential (ADD): A 4WD system found on many Tacomas and 4Runners. Whereas traditional 4WD systems utilize manual locking hubs that must be locked by hand, the ADD system utilizes live hubs that are always locked. What this means is that even in 2WD, while moving, the driver-side and passenger-side axles and the differential are always spinning (the front drive shaft does not spin in 2WD). When in 2WD, although spinning, the driver-side axle is disconnected from the differential via a vacuum-actuated or electronically-actuated sleeve. When shifting the transfer case into 4WD, the front drive shaft is engaged, and the ADD actuator forces the sleeve toward the passenger side of the vehicle, effectively locking the splines of the driver-side axle with those of the differential."
 
TheDurk said:
Please explain the '4WD test' you did. I wonder if you could be in 2WD at the TC but with the ADD stuck engaged. Have you put the rig in the air to spin each wheel and run the steering rack-to-rack? Wheels should be independent with the ADD disengaged. Sorry if you ruled this out already, but I'd still put it up in the air and play with it. It's not the rack bushings, although it probably needs it.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking - what the OP is describing sounds exactly like his rig is stuck in 4wd.
 
I ordered some rack bushings from wheelers along with sway bar bushing kit just cus I know it needs it. I haven't put it in the air although I do know, cus of changing the cv axle, that it spins freely. I just hate to replace the bushings only to find out the rack is bad, having to do it all over again.

Testing the 4wd was just my way of saying I tested each mode from multi mode to 4wd low and drove around to make sure nothing was binding up. I did this mainly because the problem feels like its stuck in 4wd but clearly it's not.

I'll toss both sides in the air when I get home from work and test it further. I just don't know what else it could be.
 
IanB said:
"Automatic Disconnecting Differential (ADD): A 4WD system found on many Tacomas and 4Runners. Whereas traditional 4WD systems utilize manual locking hubs that must be locked by hand, the ADD system utilizes live hubs that are always locked. What this means is that even in 2WD, while moving, the driver-side and passenger-side axles and the differential are always spinning (the front drive shaft does not spin in 2WD). When in 2WD, although spinning, the driver-side axle is disconnected from the differential via a vacuum-actuated or electronically-actuated sleeve. When shifting the transfer case into 4WD, the front drive shaft is engaged, and the ADD actuator forces the sleeve toward the passenger side of the vehicle, effectively locking the splines of the driver-side axle with those of the differential."
Click to expand...

Ian, thank you. I think you may have just helped me solve my issue. Safe the assume that since the TC is in 2WD, the 4x4 dash light would not be on even if the ADD was engaged?
 
ARKRWLR said:
I ordered some rack bushings from wheelers along with sway bar bushing kit just cus I know it needs it. I haven't put it in the air although I do know, cus of changing the cv axle, that it spins freely. I just hate to replace the bushings only to find out the rack is bad, having to do it all over again.

Testing the 4wd was just my way of saying I tested each mode from multi mode to 4wd low and drove around to make sure nothing was binding up. I did this mainly because the problem feels like its stuck in 4wd but clearly it's not.

I'll toss both sides in the air when I get home from work and test it further. I just don't know what else it could be.
Click to expand...

Turn the front drive-shaft using your hand with the car on the ground in 2WD. It should rotate easily. If not, your ADD is still engaged and there is your problem.

If that is not it, get someone to work the wheel with the truck in the air while you eyeball the linkages, especially where you saw the oil. Something may be out of the correct geometry causing the wheels to fight each other on turns.
 
Last edited:
TheDurk said:
Turn the front drive-shaft using your hand with the car on the ground in 2WD. It should rotate easily. If not, your ADD is still engaged and there is your problem.

If that is not it, get someone to work the wheel with the truck in the air while you eyeball the linkages, especially where you saw the oil. Something may be out of the correct geometry causing the wheels to fight each other on turns.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips.. I'll definitely add it to the troubleshooting.
 
Here's my 2cents...

If your feeling like it's real tight turning then I wouldn't suspect bushings and whatnot. First thing I would do is lift the front, make sure the wheels are spinning freely, then try turning the wheel back and forth with the motor running. If it's still tight then I would suspect something in the rack assembly going bad or maybe in the steering shaft leading down to it from the steering wheel. If it turns like normal with the front lifted then maybe your PS pump is on the fritz, since there's no weight on the front tires it would be easy to turn without power assist. Maybe do some more checking and report back with the results and someone might have more insight.
 
So I feel like a complete idiot. I had my buddy that I work with swing by and help me troubleshoot. So I drove the truck like I did last time and he said it sounds like you're rear tires rubbing, not the front. I said you're right, hang on.. I flipped my elocker switch, which is a carling switch, heard the click and light came on, then disengaged it. Drove it and problem gone. So I guess my rear locker decided to half ass lock or lock in without the light being on. I never noticed it was the rear tires grabbing cus I was so concentrated on the front end. I must have bumped the switch when hooking up my compressor switch.

I still plan on changing my rack and frot sway bar bushings. This just pushed me to buy them sooner. I got a fresh new cv axle, too lol. :D

Thanks everyone for your tips, comments, and help. Not only I learned but hopefully others will learn as well.
 
I was leaving home and heard a whining with somewhat stiffer steering. I pulled in to my mechanic who noticed low power steering oil, he topped it off and notice right away leaks underneath. Still whining after topping oil. Put on the hoist and said lines leaking, I need new rack! 2017, 148k, not much rough 4wheeling with my toy. Could it be something else? Common or known issues? Recalls or service notices? Quoted 1500$ CAN. OEM rack is 1100$ CAN. Your advice and suggestions welcomed!
 
Leaking lines and leaking rack are two very different fixes. Verify if both are actually bad. I find it hard to believe a line gave out at the same time as the rack seals.
 
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