T4rchadly's "RADRNR" build thread (IFS wannabe rock crawler on 37s)

[T4Rchadly]

mini update: nothing too cool

well, just because lucy is for sale doesnt mean im completely abandoning her.. i went and did another ouray trip for my birthday and truck did awesome minus ripping both lower control arm bushings out completely.. from 5-30% throttle was an absolute death sentence to drive 6 hours back home because the rear end would GO RABID and swing side to side causing a near uncontrollable death wobble up until you let off throttle. and with me being at cruising speed on the freeway, this happened about every 4 minutes or so until it would reoccur.... it was scary. got it back home and a couple days after i snap my clavicle(collar bone) in two places in a really bad mountain bike crash prepping for a race so i havent done anything since the ouray trip, it still need lower links..

on the bright side i immediately finished the NWF dual case setup and is ready to go in whatever, along with me finishing the rebuild of the 1uz. not sure if im just going to suck it up and keep lucy, or stick with selling. i havent gotten too many hits as theres a lot of flakes these days but its definitely getting interest.



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ill post more updates when i have a more operable arm

 

[Black798]

Let me know when your ready to bring Lucy back up to bozeman so we can get a solid axle under that thing :thumb3:

 

[Iron duke]

I feel like heavily modded rigs don't do so well in the used car market. It's worth 20k just in parts and labor, but a lot of people who want to buy a 4runner don't want a LT rig on 37's and those who do want a LT rig on 37's want to build it themselves. It's just a narrow market unfortunately. But that's just my $0.02

 

[T4Rchadly]

Let me know when your ready to bring Lucy back up to bozeman so we can get a solid axle under that thing :thumb3:

biggest thing that needs to happen!!

 

[T4Rchadly]

I feel like heavily modded rigs don't do so well in the used car market. It's worth 20k just in parts and labor, but a lot of people who want to buy a 4runner don't want a LT rig on 37's and those who do want a LT rig on 37's want to build it themselves. It's just a narrow market unfortunately. But that's just my $0.02

i went in knowing that as ive "built" more than 10 cars, its always difficult selling them.. figured id have more interest from some guy that wants something turn-key after being in the van business... apparently not!

 

[rickashay]

Currently hunting for a 1UZ myself. Just missed a 95' last week. Curious if yours is VVTI or not?

Keep it!

 

[T4Rchadly]

Currently hunting for a 1UZ myself. Just missed a 95' last week. Curious if yours is VVTI or not?

Keep it!

mine if not the VVTI just because of my intentions and availability as well.. i plan on boosting it down the road and i wanted the thicker rods (89-94) because i think you know how i ride..:rofl: i wanted to run bigger boost and be able to bump the rpm higher with the standalone, i planned on putting in bigger valve springs and ARP bolts/MLS gasket so i can get the rpm to above 8400 reliably.. i also got the engine from a junkyard for $300 and you see 90-97 ls400's around me all the time so i figured it would be the safer play if something catastrophic happens..

the VVTI wouldve been the best route and more fuel efficient but theyre harder to find around me, and you basically need an entire donor car for the immobilizer, transponder, the key to the transponder, the VVTI harness & the ecu itself.. the wiring is a little more tricky but if you get to that point DM me on instagram and i have an abundance of gathered info on making the vvti stuff work.

heres a picture on the rod sizes, you can swap the non vvti rods into a vvti engine but its more work than what i would want to do, i want this a reliable setup rather than a setup that is focused to achieve numbers

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a huge reason i didnt want to even bother with a 2uz is the power/weight ratio (i dont want a iron block v8 if its not an LS/LT engine, it is a complete waste of time for the power gain), the rods are the smallest in thickness, the aftermarket support is a little more tricky to find, as you've seen a (few) 2uz swaps on these things, vs the amount of 1uz swaps people do on their vehicles & pickup chassis. a big argument is 2uz's have way more "low end power" but i dont need the low end power when i have a dual transfer case.. the power in lucy with the 37s is good enough, i want the mid to higher end power for towing with manual. the lower end power automatically comes with the swap of a v8 vs a garbage 300k mile 5vz so im not too worried. not to mention the better power/weight it evens out!! hope some of this info helped

 

[T4Rchadly]

progress is progress

my shoulder is healing good and have range of motion again so i can continue on with projects for lucy.. i sold the GS daily so now im stuck driving her for a little again.. heres 1uz and dual case updates. 1uz block all clean and ready for reseal. dual case ready to go in

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putting vin of the engine for reference later on and so i can gget accurate mileage changes from the engine swap. i may or may not rollback the mileage with how much stuff ive already replaced and the fact im putting in a different rear end. its still on the fence but i wouldnt have crazy differences if i do rollback. the engine had 160k and i purchased lucy with 200,000 miles? with as much driving as i usually do 50k miles is pretty achievable in two-three years..

 

[T4Rchadly]

everything is clean and ready for reseal. rebuilt the alternator, rebuilding starter & power steering pump right now with OEM/denso parts. rebuilt throttle body and new OEM TPS, along with custom paint job in the intake plenum. i sprayed everything with aluminum colored engine enamel and then i ran a dark metallic to black fade job on those lines. i probably wont use the intake setup because theyre unusable after you supercharge, but i can probably sell them for a descent amount of money with not a lot of money put into it.



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i also sold the GS430 i had in attempt for looking to find a black LS430 as a daily, so i unfortunately have to daily lucy in the meantime. looking to do a VIP daily setup, nothing too crazy other than an OEM celsior kit and coilovers. dont really want to deal with bags. the GS was a super fun car so im excited to get back into another lexus



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[T4Rchadly]

one of the biggest deals that needed to be fixed asap if i was going to drive this heffer again every day was it needs to drive without me wanting to commit.. (yes you know what im talking about) my rear lower links have been toast since my colorado trip and is TERRIFYING to drive with, hence i didnt drive it a single time up until i sold the GS. I went to the junkyard and talked the worker into saying these are swaybar links.. $9 later, i have two 350k mile lower links :crutch: the old ones were HAMMERED, the bushings werent even connected, and one was bent. it atleast drives like it doesnt want to kill me now but you can still tell the truck shifts and is extyremely loose.. whatever.


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I have better stuff to do.. my fender has been screwed up from various events and cant really open my door, my lower portion keeps ripping the sheet metal screws, i was tired of being janky. fixed the fender to be "acceptable" and installed a plus nut on the bottom so i can go back to bolting it in. from my tub job i had to cut the OEM lower mount off so i sheet metal screwed it in, What are plus nuts?? this is the comparion to a standard rivnut. it provides far more clamping force, but is a little bit bigger in surface area.


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Its clean... but somethings missing


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I took all my lights off and sold other than the XL80's, theyll be back, just not as a ditch light. i wanted to go back to the grandpa look as i realized i hate how this thing has been looking lately, and it was never my intended goal, so i put my self back on track. no projector, i am going back to blinding people with LED's in reflector housing (o well, srry people)

also finally mounted my fire extinguisher after months (5/16 plus nuts to mount)


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as said, lucy drives fat better, but theres still wacky shifts when braking, harder acceleration. I had to go to the junkyard to get some corner light stuff because mine broke from the amber halos, etc, i wanted everything to be factory. i ended up finding a boned 4runner with poly bushing entire rear end. i snagged all pieces and it came out around $110 i think, that specific junkyard screws people on price, but at the same time just the lower bushings alone were like $80 and i dont have to spend the time pressing everything. im happy enough & my upper 300k mile links were completely smoked and completely loose. heres some before and afters of everything. dirves fantastic now layball:


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A really annoying issue ive been having is my suction cup for my garmin is almost useless and falls off super easy after about 3 years of use. i ened up making a RAM mount setup and a 19mm to 1 inch ball adapter to physically mount the garmin. everything is rock solid and im super content. i will be adding cigarette lighters and two quick USB chargers ontop of the dash to clean wiring up and have more USB outles (i seem to run out of all my outlets constantly somehow) i will do a pretty in depth tutorial on how i did everything when i get it done, i dont really see anyone doing this


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[rickashay]

Stoked on the dual cases and motor swap updates.

How did you clean all the engine parts? Just good ol' wire brush and simple green or something more extreme? Taking notes...

 

[T4Rchadly]

Stoked on the dual cases and motor swap updates.

How did you clean all the engine parts? Just good ol' wire brush and simple green or something more extreme? Taking notes...

i have been using a steam cleaner with all purpose degreaser. its not ideal but it does a descent job and gets everything clean. i wish i had a parts cleaner because the steam cleaner takes a very long time in comparison. its not terrible but its not ideal if that makes sense

Amazon.com - McCulloch MC1375 Canister Steam Cleaner with 20 Accessories, Extra-Long Power Cord, Chemical-Free Cleaning for Most Floors, Counters, Appliances, Windows, Autos, and More, 1-(Pack), Black - Carpet Steam Cleaners

this is the specific product i use. i have it for random car detailing stuff for personal use, and decided to try it on the car parts and it worked pretty good so ive been running it since

 

[T4Rchadly]

Dashboard USB/Cigarette outlets

I have been trying to do this project thats been in my head for a little now, and i figured id do another tutorial while im at it. I've been trying to change my power location and add more USB power for awhile, but didnt want to see form my cockpit. My power wire has been getting pinched and my shit boot always pops out from the pressure and i want access to the main cigarette lighter for awhile now, and you guys know i hate messy wiring by now.. lets see if this idea works out..

tools used
-calipers
-sharpie
-screw driver #2 phillips
-90 degree drill
-1 1/8" hole saw
-knife

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remove main dash bezel


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remove HVAC face vent


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remove heating cable from the socket by pulling back, and then pull on the cable itself to give you slack to remove the actual hook. this will give you the room for your 90 degree drill and 1 1/8" holesaw bit


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looking inside out of the dash, theres a middle section thats flat, so i found the middle via calipers and ran a pilot bit and then the hole saw. this is just a test hit before i completely total out my dash


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Times for a second hole. i did this 1 1/4" to the side, eye to eye.


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At this point i have both outlets mounted, and im ready for wiring. my plan was splicing into the OEM cigarette lighter, and making a removable harness. so this is what i came up with. a main wire with a jumper to the other outlet. super clean


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I had to cut the vent so everything fite without bending. i dont notice and face vent loss of power, and i doubt it heats it enough to do damage.


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It turned out exactly how i imagined it. only has power on ignition, and i no longer see the wiring and have extra charge space now

 

[T4Rchadly]

more how-to stuff: rear hating

you guys know i have been on a tangent with "simplifying" lucy, deleting the most amount of stuff possible that i dont use or need, while still making everything comfortable. along with other things on the chopping block, lets just get this out of the way first. one time in moab alex, chase, hayden & i were messing around in the sand dunes one night and alex developed a weird leak.. we found that either his rear seating heater core or the line itself had cracked and was leaking coolant. we ended up bypassing the rear heating and got mroe coolant in the system. it spooked me out and ive seen it happen on a few different 4runners now. thus, another tutorial on how i completely deleted my rear heating. i do not have a lot of people sitting in the back, and i usually have the passenger seat blocked from my sleeping platform, so i dont think the rear heater does too much regardless. lets get on with it :drum:


1. these are your rear heating core lines, we'll name them O and G.


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2. you will remove the end of G where it mates to the heater core tube that goes underneath the vehicle. you will then remove O at the heater valve junction that is bolted to the firewall. remove the spring clamp and install into G. you will link G into that junction


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3. you now need to remove 3 10mm bolts. one half way down the firewall, one next to the catalytic converter, and one being the heater core "guard"


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4. you will remove O from the heater core. you will then remove G from the heater core tube, and link it into the heater core where O was. this will make a closed loop. remove heater core coolant tube (i cut the line in half to make removal fast)


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5. youve now removed the rear heating system of your 4runner. to take it to a further step, ive decided to remove the heater core and rear HVAC itself. i removed the seats, and center console. removed the 5 screws holding the HVAC in, and removed the grommet.


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6. take the control valve from center console out with the HVAC system


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7. OPTIONAL: install preferred sound deadening to decrease slight road noise decibel, and additional sound system acoustics.

 

[T4Rchadly]

dual transfer case

its been long overdue of getting this NWF case in, but i finally have everything done. i am super picky in terms of quality for parts, so lets see how this goes.

i decided to use 85-140 SAE gear oil to break things in for a couple thousand miles and then go to synthetic


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tom woods driveshatfs. both were the baddest units i could get in terms of tubing thickness. these things are hefty especially with the new 1310 joints


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getting the OEM case took approx 15 minutes or less. take out the outpu/input shaft adapter and install to new NWF input shaft


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heres when the first round of things gets frustrating..:mad2: you only hear the good things with these kits so far, and ill give my honest input. For $4,000, (including driveshafts) you get only what assembles the dual case kit, with the NWF case kit being around $3,000. you are given zinc coated hardware that rust over time, you are forced to ruin a 13mm wrench that they dont include ( you need to bend a wrench 90 degrees. my stubby wrenches and my snapon bent wrench set were too large ), the top two studs are near impossible to tighten, some of the shifters were pre-loose internally inside of the triple stick units (had to take them apart to loctite and tighten), my biggest gripe being you are given no gasket for the triple sticks and you are forced to use RTV. Inside one of the shifter plates, is a seal held in by a machined o-ring. NWF doesn't give you RTV, a gasket, and didnt machine an o ring to keep an oil seal onto of the shift plates. For $3,000, youd think you wouldnt have to use stone-age RTV when theres already machining done for o rings on other parts of that kit. theres more down the road but lets finish the install.


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i replaced a output seal they didnt include (again, im being whiney but for $3,000 i expected a little more) it was kind of weird the $25 oem seal was a different size than the original one that was in it. the space was SUPER hard to work with while the transfer case was clocked at 16 degrees, although you can see if pulls the drop pretty far up now. because of the casing fill and drain being parallel, i had to put lucy at a big angle to get all the gear oil in lol, i got a lil sketchy with it. at this point, first initial drive the transfer case smacks and vibrates on the trans tunnel immediately. i banged it with a hammer but wasnt good enough.

after about 20 minutes of driving, i took a double check on my work to find out it was PISSING oil out of 3 spots..:gun4::frusty: i dump oil, and take care of one. NWF doesnt state to use any sort of thread sealer on the lid, so i just tightened them down. i now know YOU NEED TO APPLY THREAD SEALANT on all thread ports of the lid. i find the second leak.. for some reason my RTV didnt work.. and lastly, the top right detent plug was leaking. i thread sealed the 19mm plug on the bottom, ill just do this top one. THE STUPID STUD IS BLOCKING IT.. super annoying, ill just take the stud out. THEY MADE IT TOO LONG and i cant remove the stud. so, time to drop the case again.:mad2:


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taking the case out, 2 cups full of gear oil spills out. the seal i got from toyota wasnt correct. so a full day of running to parts stores, i found that the seal from toyota is a new super-seeded PN for a "newer case" they said. i found the correct seal, and installed it. i will give all length dimensions of shafts, same with part numbers i had to use to install this case. again, NWF couldve easily supplied this $7 seal with the kit. these are the differences


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old, front & new, on the rear. the new correct seal is 5mm tall while the old OEM one being 2mm, not even sealing the input shaft

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the vibration with the transfer case clocked at 16 degrees was annoying so i changed it to 10 degrees. i also removed both stupid top studs. DO NOT INSTALL THE TOP TWO STUDS ON YOUR NWF CASE. serviceability is vital. i installed 2 Stainless steel torx bolts that are removable instead, it was a lot easier to install as well given theres no room. i also fixed the RTV leak on the rear-side triple stick unit. everything is finally fixed. man handled the beast back in and drove it.. ANOTHER LEAK from somewhere up top. super frustrated with how many leaks im having. my entire frame/ axle is soaked in gear oil


i know i am being very whiney and nitpicky. for a $4,000 install, id hope its a completely flawless setup in my mind. this is the most expensive case on the market, and i feel like they could've done more if im being honest in terms of serviceability and hardware. enough of the nagging

i am very insanely stoked on this dual case and 4 lo lo is ABSURD, it is awesome. my new crawl ratio is now at 123:1 ! this is something ive been wanting to do to lucy since ownership and im glad i finally got it done. i am trying to get a bunch of things done before one of my first trips set in april and this was the biggest piece i needed. the NWF lid/base setup is friggen BEEF and i have a lot of peace at mind with my input shaft being chromoly. it sounds like a lot of bigger tire people go thru input shafts with their marlin/TG setup.

 

[T4Rchadly]

asked a lot on instagram to post on here, these are my part numbers and dimensions used for the dual case swap. the national oil seal is the correct output shaft seal for the transmission. id prefer oem but national is a good brand. the "T type" seals are the front and rear output seals for the transfer case where it meets the companion flange, and lastly the hub transfer ring that i had broke during assembly. the driveshaft dimensions are circled red. but for your knowlegde, because the extension was 6.5", i got a 6.5 inch shorter rear shaft than oem, and added 6" to oem front shaft length. pretty simple


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[thezentree]

Is this the ecocrawler or something else? Have you got it buttoned up and no longer leaking or are you still fighting it?

I think I'd be well into the four letter word section of my vocabulary at this point too.

 

[T4Rchadly]

Is this the ecocrawler or something else? Have you got it buttoned up and no longer leaking or are you still fighting it?

I think I'd be well into the four letter word section of my vocabulary at this point too.

yes its the eco crawler !

i havent looked at the new leak yet. skiing has been more important now that my shoulder is finally good enough to "take it easy":crutch::banana:

 

[T4Rchadly]

new bumper day

ive been tired of no cleareance, approach, how heavy the ARB was, and the fact that the winch housing was too small for me to use the 100 foot winch-line, making my winch useless pretty much. knowing EVERYONE wants an ARB for some reason, i present you


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sold it within 30 minutes posting for a pretty penny... i didnt really lose any money buying vs selling :fro:


at this point, ive been wanting tube front bumper for awhile. there wasnt many options and i dont own a tube bender. my only option was addicted offroad which ive heard good things about, other than approach angle. thus, my journey on achieving better approach angle



the orignal way youre supposed to mount this, is the same way for an ARB. bolt thru the frame horn, two bolts on the bottom. after a test fit, the approach wasnt great, as expected upon purchase


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first set of trimming: i kind of had a guideline from a friend on how he pushed it back 1.5", but i ended up being able to take advantage of 2" somehow. i forgot to take before measurement pictures unfortunately otherwise id include before and after measurements. i cut 1.75" off my frame horn, followed by cutting about 1.25" off the side of the addicted offroad mounting crossmember. i had to cut out my original skid plate mount to do this


chopped frame, untouched crossmember

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sucked back in. at this point the framehorn wasnt flush with the crossmember end, so i cut more crossmember and pushed it back the last approx. 1/4 inch. again ive failed and forgot to take pictures


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test fits with the new 2001-2002 grille


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kinda looks good like this :smokin: welded the crossmember in along with a few gussets for bracing. i had to mount the skidplate to the bottom of the crossmember. i used two m10 bolts to secure the budbuilt crossmember. an issue is that its sucked really tight against the diff drop and its now spring-loaded. dont really know what to do about it i need to call some bigger offroad friends on ideas


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winter mode back in plus new bumper!! really excited on the new look. i will be adding headlight hoops in and i need to put in my XL80's and my winch in still. lastly, the before and afters of approach angle of pushing the crossmember back


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[T4topher]

[MENTION=373029]T4Rchadly[/MENTION] nice job on the bumper, looks great! I did the same thing with my hybrid AOR bumper. I think you got it sucked in just a tad bit more than I did though.