Tachometer/Speedometer Not Functioning

Blu42

Member
Hi guys, I am a long time lurker ( I made an account here before I even owned a 4Runner) and I don't tend to post much. I like to search the interwebs until I can solve issues on my own but this one has me stumped.

I decided to swap out my cluster leds and they look fantastic. When I started to reassemble the cluster I found that my tachometer and speedometer are no longer working. Odometer, temp, and fuel gauges are working normal.

I tried to readjust the needles by changing the stop (thinking that I had somehow moved it and this was my issue) while unplugged. In each case, I would get different results. I mainly fiddled with my tach as it was easier to check for functionality. Sometimes it would move with the throttle but not very well and would stick wherever it was at. Most the time it just would do nothing. Every so often after unplugging it the needle would run through some sort of self check and would swing around depending on where I left it before plugging it back in. This leads me to believe the stepper motors are working, at least kind of. Most of the time the needle just did nothing. The speedometer just twitches while I'm driving.

I had PM'd emelianenkov, and he suggested that my needles where too close to the face and were binding. I pulled them way back and still had the same issues. I found a place that sells the motors for $19 and it would be an easy swap if that is looking like the issue. Any advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated.

Needle twitch video
Needle forward movement video
The needle will swing around if I leave it between the stop before plugging it back in. That subtle twitching is what my speedometer needle does while I'm driving. If I leave the tach needle stop at ~3000rpm(per the gauge face numbers) the needle will move with the throttle, barley, while rotating around the entire face. If it does move with the throttle, it will only move in one direction.

2007 4Runner SR5 4WD

edit: added videos of current tachometer activity

edit: 12/3/2015 wanted to update this post in case someone else came across it. My final solution was to replace the cluster assembly and have the mileage programmed. I could have driven around with the broken cluster, or none at all, but I wanted everything to function. Having someone program the cluster locally was way too expensive and found that service to be much cheaper online.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
i dont see the pdf there, but i posted this before
INCLINATION SENSOR ZERO DEGREE
CORRECTION
NOTICE:
• When replacing or removing/installing the
combination meter assembly and inclination
sensor assembly, be sure to perform zero degree
correction of the inclination sensor.
• When performing zero degree correction, install
the combination meter assembly and perform it in
level surface.
• Also perform zero degree correction when the
body level setting is inclined because of vehicle
height adjustment.
(a) Turn the ignition switch off.
(b) While pressing the RESET switch, turn the ignition
switch on.
(c) Within 5 seconds after the ignition switch is turned
on, repeat pressing and releasing the RESET
switch 3 times and keep holding the last press for
more than 5 seconds. (Buzzer sounds for a second)
NOTICE:
If the buzzer does not sound, perform this
procedure from the beginning.
(d) Release the RESET switch when buzzer sounds.
(e) Press the RESET switch again and keep pressing
for more than 5 seconds. (Buzzer sounds for a
second again)
HINT:
• When the buzzer sounds twice, reset operation is
completed.
• The buzzer sound of the first and second time is
the same.
NOTICE:
If the buzzer does not sound or keep sounding
for more than 1 second, perform the procedure
from the beginning.
 
Yes, those are the steps laid out in the service manual. I ran through it twice properly but it didn't seem to have an effect on the situation.

edit: Service manuals These are the manual pdf's that I am using.
 
Last edited:
i also did pull my dome fuse for 30 mins to help discharge stored electricity.

Can you elaborate on this a bit more?

I will double check the wiring for the sensor. In the videos I put up, the cluster is obviously disassembled but the the behavior is the same as when it is fully assembled and the zero calibration is done. Thanks!
 
you might want to pull the dome fuse out for 30 mins and then reinstall it, the dome fuse do send power to cluster displays.
 
I will give that a try right now and then redo the calibration afterwards.

Last night I put an oscilloscope on the C9-6 pin for the tachometer per the SM. I have never used an oscilloscope before so Im not sure about what I'm seeing. It looks like the waveform is correct. I don't know if horizontal shift makes a difference but I believe it does. If that is the case, the pattern is correct but is shifted. Again I've never used a scope before so hopefully someone can clarify this for me.

Tested @ 5v/10ms
 

Attachments

  • 20150802_212005c.jpg
    20150802_212005c.jpg
    132.5 KB · Views: 1,738
Last edited:
Pulled the dome fuse for a while. I reinserted it then preformed the calibration on the combination meter. No luck, I'm still having the same issues.

I'm starting to think this is a lost cause and I should just fork over for a new/used cluster.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,305
Messages
3,554,042
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top