Tacoma front diff interchangeable with a 3rd gen?

[white_n_slow]

I may have a line on a cheap front differential already rebuilt and geared to 4.88. It is off a 1998 Tacoma. Is this interchangeable with a '99 runner diff?

I was thinking 5.29, but the cost savings may be worth going 4.88 instead if this deal works out

Thanks in advance

 

[Dous]

Absolutely. There is one stipulation though

You will need to swap your ADD tubes, not hard at all requires an E-Torx. Forgive me as I have forgotten he correct size. Your's will be mostly vacuum disco, while the newer Tacoma probably has the electrical disconnect.

BUT, the clamshell is exactly the same assuming it is a Tacoma with ADD. Make sure it came from a Tacoma without manual hubs, or else it won't have the needle bearings for the CV axle.

 

[SCRunner12]

Good to know as I'm looking into regearing right now as well. White, if you pass for some reason let my know as I'm currently looking for a front 4.88 diff.

BTW, have you seen this one? 5.29 and 4runner diff so no changing anything. 99 4runner front diff with 5:29 - TTORA Forum

 

[white_n_slow]

Thanks for the feedback. I went ahead and got it. At this price, I couldn't say no. Yukon gears and the whole thing is rebuilt with zero miles.

 

[Doc2012]

Or, if you're running manual hubs you can just make the ADD diff a manual. Look at my mod thread to see how. All you need are two hose clamps.

 

[SCRunner12]

Any way to make a manual diff to an ADD for cheap? Probably not, but figured I'd ask.

 

[Dous]

Any way to make a manual diff to an ADD for cheap? Probably not, but figured I'd ask.

By swapping your ADD tube is all.

But the Non-ADD clamshell does NOT have the needle bearings to support the CV's.

 

[SCRunner12]

By swapping your ADD tube is all.

But the Non-ADD clamshell does NOT have the needle bearings to support the CV's.

Ok so it wouldn't work unless I added the needle bearings? I'm assuming this means it's pretty cost/time ineffective then.

 

[xcmtb83]

By swapping your ADD tube is all.

But the Non-ADD clamshell does NOT have the needle bearings to support the CV's.

Dous can you expand on this as I would too like to know more.

Can you convert an ADD front diff to a manual hub setup by just swapping the side tube off of a manual hub diff over to the ADD diff? A that point manual hub CV shafts will have to be used and of course manual hubs, correct?

Please explain more about the needle bearings. Without the needle bearings what would happen while the CV is turning?

I wish there was a sticky that covered all of the possible scenarios for ADD system components mixed with manual hub system components and all of the requirements/benefits of using certain items from each system!

 

[Dous]

Ok so it wouldn't work unless I added the needle bearings? I'm assuming this means it's pretty cost/time ineffective then.

Your CV's will actually still work in that differential..but the needle bearing keeps some vibrations away. The inner CV is the same for both the ADD and NON-ADD trucks. But you would rather have that needle bearing.

Dous can you expand on this as I would too like to know more.

Can you convert an ADD front diff to a manual hub setup by just swapping the side tube off of a manual hub diff over to the ADD diff? A that point manual hub CV shafts will have to be used and of course manual hubs, correct?

Please explain more about the needle bearings. Without the needle bearings what would happen while the CV is turning?

I wish there was a sticky that covered all of the possible scenarios for ADD system components mixed with manual hub system components and all of the requirements/benefits of using certain items from each system!

Not quite look at Doc's build thread above, he covers converting the system to manual pretty well! The only difference with the manual hub CV's is the OUTER joint, the inner is the same.

Without the needle bearing there is less support for the CV, which is why folks with manual hubs from the factory may notice more vibes.

 

[Singtoe]

Your CV's will actually still work in that differential..but the needle bearing keeps some vibrations away. The inner CV is the same for both the ADD and NON-ADD trucks. But you would rather have that needle bearing.



Not quite look at Doc's build thread above, he covers converting the system to manual pretty well! The only difference with the manual hub CV's is the OUTER joint, the inner is the same.

Without the needle bearing there is less support for the CV, which is why folks with manual hubs from the factory may notice more vibes.

Do you have a picture of these needle bearings?

 

[Dous]

Do you have a picture of these needle bearings?

Sure do, pulled this off of 4x4wire

 

[danthemanx07]

Am I following correctly that it is the ADD vs. non-ADD front that is the pertinent inquiry and that the only relevance of the 4runner vs. Tacoma is that 4runners only came with ADD?

IE: if you picked up a front third from an ADD equipped Tacoma, no modification would be necessary. Is that correct?

I am in a similar situation as the OP. Looking at front thirds, tacoma/4runner.

Thanks!

 

[white_n_slow]

I'm gonna sound stupid for saying this, but what the heck is ADD? (I'm assuming some sort of acronym for our full time hubs?). I do not know what model of tacoma the diff came out of (manual hubs or permanent splined). Is there a way to tell by looking at it? I can post some pictures tonight if that would help.

 

[Singtoe]

Sure do, pulled this off of 4x4wire

That is awesome. It is a bearing inside a bearing. So, another reason for not having a diff drop, Those little needle bearings spin all the time and if the oil level is not at the level, then they will run dry.

 

[danthemanx07]

I'm gonna sound stupid for saying this, but what the heck is ADD? (I'm assuming some sort of acronym for our full time hubs?). I do not know what model of tacoma the diff came out of (manual hubs or permanent splined). Is there a way to tell by looking at it? I can post some pictures tonight if that would help.

I am generally mystified by the workings of the front diff, but, pretty sure ADD stands for automatic differential disconnect IIRC. Applies when you do not have manual locking hubs.

Someone correct me if that is wrong...

You could likely tell by looking for the spindle bearings that Dous posted above. Not sure where exactly those are located, but it sounds like they would be where the axle shaft enters the diff...

 

[white_n_slow]

OK, so I have needle bearings and a vacuum port. I don't see any place for an electrical connection of any kind. Does this mean this diff is 100% compatible, no changes needed?

 

[SCRunner12]

OK, so I have needle bearings and a vacuum port. I don't see any place for an electrical connection of any kind. Does this mean this diff is 100% compatible, no changes needed?

Needs a change of address to my house...:biggrin1:

 

[white_n_slow]

Lol. If my wife waves the ban-hammer, you're first on the list.

 

[SCRunner12]

Lol. If my wife waves the ban-hammer, you're first on the list.

Haha, what's your wife's number? May need to educate her on the $ that you will be embarking to get it installed...haha

I might have a proposition for you, PM incoming.