Tacoma Manual Hubs

mien4x4

New member
Hey everyone i came across some tacoma hubs and spindle for sale on CL the guy wants $400 do you'll think thats a good price? and is that all i need for the swap except the cvs? and what do i do with my abs? thanks
 
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Hey everyone i came across some tacoma hubs and spindle for sale on CL the guy wants $400 do you'll think thats a good price? and is that all i need for the swap except the cvs? and what do i do with my abs? thanks

I bought mine for about that price with cv's. they were arising at that.. As for abs I just unplugged it and tied it up,a lot of other guys take it all out. I can remember the pros or cons of taking it out/ unplugging it. When I did mine I think big fish did an awesome write up on how to swap them out and make the abs fit in. Do a search something might come up.
 
I bought mine for about that price with cv's. they were arising at that.. As for abs I just unplugged it and tied it up,a lot of other guys take it all out. I can remember the pros or cons of taking it out/ unplugging it. When I did mine I think big fish did an awesome write up on how to swap them out and make the abs fit in. Do a search something might come up.

if i decide to not use my abs i can just use the taco spindle right? and do you think i should just change the bearing an seals since its apart so i dont have to worrie about it failing anytime soon
 
The odds of the spindle failing is probably unlikely, ild imagine the ball joints going first. But to answer your question you can just slap in the taco spindle with taco ball joints and leave the abs tied up and run fine. That's what I did, but I'm kind of lazy and didnt have access to a press and stuff.
 
i've seen units go for $500 and they include cv's. i would personally ditch the ABS. 4runner ABS blows. if you're wheeling you don't need it. when you check them out just rotate the spindle and make sure it's smooth. if it's not, like the ones I have now, you're gonna have to rebuild them. bearings, seals, lock nut, and press work all add up so just make sure they're in good condition. if they're not, hassle the guy for a lower price. make sure the lockouts turn smoothly too. those are a lot easier to rebuild. and make sure all the cone washers, nuts and bolts are included.
 
if i decide to not use my abs i can just use the taco spindle right? and do you think i should just change the bearing an seals since its apart so i dont have to worrie about it failing anytime soon


If you don't care about ABS, then use the taco spindle assembly. If you want to use ABS, the 4runner hub will have to be pressed out and replaced with the taco hub.

Unfortunately, the bearing will have to be replaced as removing the hub destroys it.

Seals should be fine to reuse.
 
I got one side with a frozen bearing for 40$, with good bearings they run at about 130$ a side here, and can be found closer to 100$.
 
Why do you need taco hubs?

weel I want the hubs for 1.I plan on a locker up front 2. less strain/wear n tear on front end 3. so if I break a cv n dnt hav a spare I still can drive home & 4. one of my lower ball joint bolt is kind of striped on the passenger side spindel and I cant replace it with a new one only that same striped bolt will go in n it wont tightn up it just turns in n sits there loose so I put a bunch of lock tught n its been holding up but id rather change it n in this situation I get that fix + all the above
 
[MENTION=81615]mien4x4[/MENTION]

Speaking from experience, because I did it.

You can use the manual hubs and spindles. There's no problem with that.

Replace the LBJ and UBJ while you're doing it. Best time to do it.


As far as the ABS: You can just disconnect it. BUT, doing so MIGHT cause your speedo to go wacky. When I did mine, if I hit a big bump, i.e pot hole, speed bump too hard, ect, the speedo would shut down. I would have to stop, put the truck in park, shut it off, turn it back on, and then the speedo would be fine.

These rigs use the ABS for the Speedo. Don't ask me why, but they do. I'm going to be doing a write up here soon about how to fix that problem using a Taco speed sensor.

You will ALSO need to make the front diff into a "Manual Diff."

You are completly right as far as being able to drive home if you break a CV. You don't have to worry about it at all. Just pull the CV out, cover the holes, and go on your way.

As far as "being less strain", there you're right and wrong.

As far as an every day standpoint, you're right. The fact that the the driver side CV, the diff, and the shaft aren't spinning does save them a little bit.

BUT, the fact that you're wanting to put a locker in there is going to be hell on them.

IMHO, I would run a selectable locker. I'm running an ARB with 4.88 front and rear. I ONLY use the front when I HAVE to. And, honestly, that's not too often. Hell, I went to Uwharrie in the beginning of Dec and was able to make it around in 2WD locked. (My t-case wouldn't engage. Went up Daniel, not the first ledge, but from the "S" on up. Got stuck in the rock garden though.)
I think I used my front locker a total of twice. Once when I got stuck in my buddys mud hole, and the second when I was pulling a car up a hill in reverse in grass.


Here's my write up for the manual hub conversion, and manual diff conversion.

www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen.../127367-docs-mod-thread.html
 
[MENTION=81615]mien4x4[/MENTION]

Speaking from experience, because I did it.

You can use the manual hubs and spindles. There's no problem with that.

Replace the LBJ and UBJ while you're doing it. Best time to do it.


As far as the ABS: You can just disconnect it. BUT, doing so MIGHT cause your speedo to go wacky. When I did mine, if I hit a big bump, i.e pot hole, speed bump too hard, ect, the speedo would shut down. I would have to stop, put the truck in park, shut it off, turn it back on, and then the speedo would be fine.

These rigs use the ABS for the Speedo. Don't ask me why, but they do. I'm going to be doing a write up here soon about how to fix that problem using a Taco speed sensor.

You will ALSO need to make the front diff into a "Manual Diff."

You are completly right as far as being able to drive home if you break a CV. You don't have to worry about it at all. Just pull the CV out, cover the holes, and go on your way.

As far as "being less strain", there you're right and wrong.

As far as an every day standpoint, you're right. The fact that the the driver side CV, the diff, and the shaft aren't spinning does save them a little bit.

BUT, the fact that you're wanting to put a locker in there is going to be hell on them.

IMHO, I would run a selectable locker. I'm running an ARB with 4.88 front and rear. I ONLY use the front when I HAVE to. And, honestly, that's not too often. Hell, I went to Uwharrie in the beginning of Dec and was able to make it around in 2WD locked. (My t-case wouldn't engage. Went up Daniel, not the first ledge, but from the "S" on up. Got stuck in the rock garden though.)
I think I used my front locker a total of twice. Once when I got stuck in my buddys mud hole, and the second when I was pulling a car up a hill in reverse in grass.


Here's my write up for the manual hub conversion, and manual diff conversion.

www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen.../127367-docs-mod-thread.html

this is incorrect. if you're doing a 4x4 conversion then you utilize the manual hub diff to avoid using the ADD system. but you don't need a manual hub diff. singtoe uses these same manual hub spindles and has the the ADD front diff
 
this is incorrect. if you're doing a 4x4 conversion then you utilize the manual hub diff to avoid using the ADD system. but you don't need a manual hub diff. singtoe uses these same manual hub spindles and has the the ADD front diff


I'm sorry.

That's because I got rid of all the ADD sh!t. T-case included.

Therefore, it is correct.

The way I see it, WTF is the point of going to manual hubs if you still have to push a button? Y ou still need to get out and lock the damn hubs in....

Obviously, if you want to go with manual hubs, you want something that is easily fixable, and wont leave you f^cked on the trail.

Get rid of all the ADD. Go manual hub and manual t-case. Then convert the diff to a manual diff.
 
thanks Doc2012 good write up n im looking forard to you doing the write on the speedo but now just hope the guy dnt flake out n sell me the hubs n spindles
 
I'm sorry.

That's because I got rid of all the ADD sh!t. T-case included.

Therefore, it is correct.

The way I see it, WTF is the point of going to manual hubs if you still have to push a button? Y ou still need to get out and lock the damn hubs in....

Obviously, if you want to go with manual hubs, you want something that is easily fixable, and wont leave you f^cked on the trail.

Get rid of all the ADD. Go manual hub and manual t-case. Then convert the diff to a manual diff.


The majic in my set up is that i can have best of both worlds.

Option 1, unlock the hubs, prevent the front half shafts from turning preventing wear and tear on the joints and the boots.

95 percent of my driving is on road.

Option 2, Lock the hubs and the 4Runner will be as if the Aisin hubs were never installed. Use the AWD part of my transfer case and use it the way it was designed.

I do this when inclement weather is forecasted. I go ahead, lock the hubs and keep the locked up until the weather event is over.

The only time I don't like the hubs is if I am traversing through a ditch at an angle. I have to get out of the truck, lock the hubs, cross the ditch. But I have the E-locker so I lock it up and forge on in 2wd.
 
[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION]

how much did you spend on parts to do the spindle swap to your 4runner?
 
I spent about $200 on the two knuckles and cv shafts. I bought them from a dude on NC4x4.com

I spent about $60 a bearing and $15 for gaskets and o-rings to refresh the Aisin lockers. Some tools and grease.

Probably got $350 in all in my swap.
 
I spent about $200 on the two knuckles and cv shafts. I bought them from a dude on NC4x4.com

I spent about $60 a bearing and $15 for gaskets and o-rings to refresh the Aisin lockers. Some tools and grease.

Probably got $350 in all in my swap.

hey if this is not to much to ask/you doing can you please list all the parts needed to complete this swap kinda of lazy to read through build threads thats been done already lol but i already have the knuckle , spindle, an hubs i just want to know what i need exactly to rebuild it on to my 4runner knuckle? thanks
 
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hey if this is not to much to ask/you doing can you please list all the parts needed to complete this swap kinda of lazy to read through build threads thats been done already lol but i already have the knuckle , spindle, an hubs i just want to know what i need exactly to rebuild it on to my 4runner knuckle? thanks

You need the cv half shafts and the wheel bearing. You should be able to reuse everything else.

You will need the tool too.
 

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