Taking a Dremel to TSS section

[Bry n]

So I have a Baja designs 30” S8 incoming and it’s planned to be thrown into a lo pro front bumper eventually. I happen to get brackets to mount lights dirt cheap used for behind the grille as well. I took a close a look at the new TSS crap on my grille and the “non shiny” section doesn’t appear to be a vital part for the sensor ( at least I don’t think it is). I was thinking of just going at those filled honeycomb sections with a dremel + router bit to clear that part off and throw the light bar behind the grille unobstructed. I wanted to get your guys’ input before going through with it.

My theory of why that plastic portion below the shiny area (radar) is present is additional shielding from the elements ie. up-splashes from water and what not towards the wire harness/connections. Since the lightbar will be essentially taking up that space instead... all would be fine.

 

[M22]

It’s just a guess, but I would say that part below is for rigidity?

 

[jetmechG550]

So I have a Baja designs 30” S8 incoming and it’s planned to be thrown into a lo pro front bumper eventually. I happen to get brackets to mount lights dirt cheap used for behind the grille as well. I took a close a look at the new TSS crap on my grille and the “non shiny” section doesn’t appear to be a vital part for the sensor ( at least I don’t think it is). I was thinking of just going at those filled honeycomb sections with a dremel + router bit to clear that part off and throw the light bar behind the grille unobstructed. I wanted to get your guys’ input before going through with it.

My theory of why that plastic portion below the shiny area (radar) is present is additional shielding from the elements ie. up-splashes from water and what not towards the wire harness/connections. Since the lightbar will be essentially taking up that space instead... all would be fine.

This came up on another forum just a couple weeks ago. The consensus was it was for rigidity but it was also pointed out the Tacos don't have that section filled in. A couple people cut as you are going to do and said it seemed fine. I was going to cut mine to put in my Cali Raised behind the grill mounts and light bar but ended up I am not going to install the light bar because it blocks access to the clutch on the winch or if I have to plug in the controller.

 

[WhiteMudhorn]

I cut one of the holes out.. its fine, there is nothing back there.

Though in hind sight I didn't need to cut the hole. Live and learn.

 

[Bry n]

It’s just a guess, but I would say that part below is for rigidity?

i initially thought that, too but tacos dont have that part on their TSS radar part

 

[rightyouareken]

Someone here did what you're asking a few months ago. I'm too lazy to search, but you should find it if you look back a bit.

 

[Bry n]

Current progress. Rough cuts almost done then next off sanding! Yea I’m pretty sure it’s just extra protection for the wire harness to the radar. As soon as I cleared the center top one I saw the wire harness saying hi to me

 

[Bry n]

Need tips cleaning this up �� I obviously suck at sanding it’s actually my first time sanding plastic in hard to reach areas. Also wondering what I can use to help clean out the little tight corners. Had a hard time reaching deep into the corners cause the collet/chuck would end up eating into the plastic if I got any closer. I was using a harbor freight special rotary tool with a lackluster bit kit lol. The white stuff is lubricant I didn’t fully clean off yet

 

[Saker]

Need tips cleaning this up �� I obviously suck at sanding it’s actually my first time sanding plastic in hard to reach areas. Also wondering what I can use to help clean out the little tight corners. Had a hard time reaching deep into the corners cause the collet/chuck would end up eating into the plastic if I got any closer. I was using a harbor freight special rotary tool with a lackluster bit kit lol. The white stuff is lubricant I didn’t fully clean off yet

You should be able to clean a lot of it up with a utility knife. Then you could use a small half round rough file and or wrap it with some 120 or 60 grit sandpaper….
Or wrap a paint stirring stick with sandpaper.
Use your imagination, it shouldn’t be that hard!
Let us know.

 

[mordotz]

Or if you have a Dremel, you could clean that up really nice - my 2cents

Edit: just noticed that you mentioned a rotary tool. With the right bits, that could make quick work of making it look nice.

 

[a47chuck]

Need tips cleaning this up �� I obviously suck at sanding it’s actually my first time sanding plastic in hard to reach areas. Also wondering what I can use to help clean out the little tight corners. Had a hard time reaching deep into the corners cause the collet/chuck would end up eating into the plastic if I got any closer. I was using a harbor freight special rotary tool with a lackluster bit kit lol. The white stuff is lubricant I didn’t fully clean off yet

Some plastics just "ball" up when rotary filed or sanded. You might try a die-sinker file set. Another option could be X-ACTO knives. They have a curved hook like blade which can reach the back side. IMHO, a blade is the best way to go. It'll be tedious, so, good luck.

Attention Required! | Cloudflare

 

[rightyouareken]

Ya I bet an xacto model making knife would clean that up easy and quick. Something like this:

1 Pieces Craft Knife Hobby Knife with 11 Pieces Stainless Steel Blades Kit for Cutting Carving Scrapbooking Art Creation (Silver) Amazon.com : 1 Pieces Craft Knife Hobby Knife with 11 Pieces Stainless Steel Blades Kit for Cutting Carving Scrapbooking Art Creation (Silver) : Office Products


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[Bry n]

Thanks for the tips guys gonna hit up Home Depot! Totally forgot about grabbing a small rat tail file and just wrap it with the grit you need

 

[Bry n]

Ran out of light! Boo.. I think I’m satisfied with how it came out. Just need to find a good polish compound for plastic. Any suggestions guys? Hand polish it in or buff it in?? Thanks for all the help this far! Can’t wait to throw my new lights back there soon! The BD lead times are a painful, wait but totally worth it for sure!

I went out and bought some rough 150 grit and worked my way back up wet sanding through 220-400-800- I have 2k on standby but I feel that it’s not needed since I’m not trying to get a crazy gloss finish

 

[Jrunr]

Ran out of light! Boo.. I think I’m satisfied with how it came out. Just need to find a good polish compound for plastic. Any suggestions guys? Hand polish it in or buff it in?? Thanks for all the help this far! Can’t wait to throw my new lights back there soon! The BD lead times are a painful, wait but totally worth it for sure!

I went out and bought some rough 150 grit and worked my way back up wet sanding through 220-400-800- I have 2k on standby but I feel that it’s not needed since I’m not trying to get a crazy gloss finish

I just came across this thread. This is what I have been looking for - for quite a while I might add! I am super excited to do this when I get home from my deployment!! ��

How is the light output from the Baja Designs S8? I am contemplating a 30” ONX6+ in there if I can make it work, but the S8 (and even the Diode Dynamics 30” bar) are definitely on my radar for that location!

Also, on the new 2022’s (with the front cameras) the sensor is in the bottom of the grill. Do you think this can be flipped over so the light bar would be in the top part of the grill and the TSS on the bottom??

 

[Bry n]

I went with the s8 honestly because of the back light option as well lol. Instead of cheapo raptor lights I just throw on my s8 back lights lol. You will get slightly more light output with the onx6 but I’m totally happy with the output of the s8. It’s more than enough for me and I live out in the desert

 

[Bry n]

Also in terms of your other question the Rago brackets will be able to mount the lightbar above the radar if you clear the extra plastic out

 

[Jrunr]

Awesome! Thank you again for the message. I’m going to try this when I get home!