The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

I'm picking up a 1997 parts truck with a gen2 supercharger, URD 7th injector kit, OBX headers, & valve body upgrade. No excessive play on the supercharger or leaks from the nose cone.

I've been reading through threads but want to make sure I have everything I need to swap it over to my '98. I was planning on doing a full service on my low mileage (82k) but neglected and leaking runner. I'm pulling the engine to do all the gaskets (F&R main seals, oil pan, valve covers). I'll be doing the timing belt, water pump, and oil pump at the same time as well as installing the headers outside of the truck. I understand I'll also need an aftermarket transmission cooler as part of the swap.

So far I have ordered the following:
OEM F&R main seals
OEM oil pan gasket
OEM valve cover gaskets & parts necessary for that including the intake gaskets
OEM throttle body gasket
OEM supplier timing belt kit
OEM supplier water pump and oil pump

SCE copper exhaust manifold gaskets
OEM catalytic converter donut gasket

90915-YZZD3 oil filter
OEM air filter

One thing I can't seem to find an answer to is whether the upgraded valve body in the 1997 transmission will be compatible with my 1998 transmission. It is my understanding that the valve body design changed slightly right around 1998. I get that the two transmissions are interchangeable in the truck but that the valve body itself might not swap between the two.

Any insight into other parts I'm missing or any info on the valve body would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jason
 
I'm picking up a 1997 parts truck with a gen2 supercharger, URD 7th injector kit, OBX headers, & valve body upgrade. No excessive play on the supercharger or leaks from the nose cone.

I've been reading through threads but want to make sure I have everything I need to swap it over to my '98. I was planning on doing a full service on my low mileage (82k) but neglected and leaking runner. I'm pulling the engine to do all the gaskets (F&R main seals, oil pan, valve covers). I'll be doing the timing belt, water pump, and oil pump at the same time as well as installing the headers outside of the truck. I understand I'll also need an aftermarket transmission cooler as part of the swap.

So far I have ordered the following:
OEM F&R main seals
OEM oil pan gasket
OEM valve cover gaskets & parts necessary for that including the intake gaskets
OEM throttle body gasket
OEM supplier timing belt kit
OEM supplier water pump and oil pump

SCE copper exhaust manifold gaskets
OEM catalytic converter donut gasket

90915-YZZD3 oil filter
OEM air filter

One thing I can't seem to find an answer to is whether the upgraded valve body in the 1997 transmission will be compatible with my 1998 transmission. It is my understanding that the valve body design changed slightly right around 1998. I get that the two transmissions are interchangeable in the truck but that the valve body itself might not swap between the two.

Any insight into other parts I'm missing or any info on the valve body would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Jason

Here's my comments on all of them. Note that leaks from the valve covers can make it look like other seals are leaking, but really are not.

OEM F&R main seals - If they are not leaking, don't replace.
OEM oil pan gasket - Only replace if leaking.
OEM valve cover gaskets & parts necessary for that including the intake gaskets - Yes, definitely replace. These harden over time and don't seal well anymore.
OEM throttle body gasket - Get the "O" shaped gasket, not the stock "D" shaped gasket. Example: Replacement Throttle Body Gasket TRD PTR29-60030
OEM supplier timing belt kit - Sure, if it's time.
OEM supplier water pump and oil pump - Water pump yes, oil pump no, unless you have low oil pressure. These normally do not go bad, even after 200k+ miles.

SCE copper exhaust manifold gaskets - Are yours leaking? Usually with aftermarket headers they just need to be re-torqued and they are fine.
OEM catalytic converter donut gasket - Only if leaking or if there's a bad seal between the headers & cat downpipe.

90915-YZZD3 oil filter - Yes, oil change might be good as well.
OEM air filter - Yes

The superchargers are actually pretty easy on the engine. Since you are also installing the 7th Injector kit, I recommend also buying a 2.2" or 2.1" pulley to get an extra 15-25 RWHP.
 
Thanks for the advice [MENTION=143667]NWFL4Runner[/MENTION] [MENTION=142080]Bluecobra[/MENTION], I called High Speed Labs and they were really helpful, I am going to order a kit from them, I noticed some of the kits include the Rotor Pack bearings and seals, has anyone replaced these?
How can I tell if they need to be replaced?
 
Here's my comments on all of them. Note that leaks from the valve covers can make it look like other seals are leaking, but really are not.

OEM F&R main seals - If they are not leaking, don't replace.
OEM oil pan gasket - Only replace if leaking.
OEM valve cover gaskets & parts necessary for that including the intake gaskets - Yes, definitely replace. These harden over time and don't seal well anymore.
OEM throttle body gasket - Get the "O" shaped gasket, not the stock "D" shaped gasket. Example: Replacement Throttle Body Gasket TRD PTR29-60030
OEM supplier timing belt kit - Sure, if it's time.
OEM supplier water pump and oil pump - Water pump yes, oil pump no, unless you have low oil pressure. These normally do not go bad, even after 200k+ miles.

SCE copper exhaust manifold gaskets - Are yours leaking? Usually with aftermarket headers they just need to be re-torqued and they are fine.
OEM catalytic converter donut gasket - Only if leaking or if there's a bad seal between the headers & cat downpipe.

90915-YZZD3 oil filter - Yes, oil change might be good as well.
OEM air filter - Yes

The superchargers are actually pretty easy on the engine. Since you are also installing the 7th Injector kit, I recommend also buying a 2.2" or 2.1" pulley to get an extra 15-25 RWHP.



Thanks. Rear main seal is definitely leaking. Truck sat unused for several years in the Florida heat. Valve covers started leaking after.

SCE copper gaskets because I’ve heard they are pretty much the only way to keep OBX headers from leaking.

OEM cat donut because it has an aftermarket cat/downpipe with a slight leak at the moment.

A smaller pulley may be a good idea.

As for the rest of the gaskets and oil pump, since I’m pulling the engine, i figure I might as well do it right one time rather than skimp out on a few cheap gaskets. Costs a few hundred bucks for all of the maintenance and replacement parts, rather spend the money now than more time and money down the line.

Cheers,
Jason


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California residents with TRD S/C's: Who are you using for insurance?

Shopping around, Geico just told me they will not underwrite my truck because it has the TRD supercharger. I explained it was a dealer option and a Toyota part. Didn't budge.

They also said that if I did not disclose the presence of a supercharger to my insurer, and for whatever reason filed a claim, the insurer could refuse to pay out a dime.

Currently I'm with AAA, who are aware of the S/C although they will not cover the value for any aftermarket modification. Also, for the price, their insurance customer service suuuucks. My agent stopped returning calls. Their road side service is solid, though.
 
I'm not sure why any insurance should know or care about the supercharger? They won't cover the cost of it if you get a payout if the vehicle is totalled, but that should be about the end of it. Why did you even mention it?

My motor swapped Camry is insured through AAA - I don't expect them to pay out what the car is truly worth in an accident though, unless I get an agreed value policy...

-Charlie
 
I'm not sure why any insurance should know or care about the supercharger? They won't cover the cost of it if you get a payout if the vehicle is totalled, but that should be about the end of it. Why did you even mention it?

My motor swapped Camry is insured through AAA - I don't expect them to pay out what the car is truly worth in an accident though, unless I get an agreed value policy...

-Charlie

The Hypothetical scenario is this:

  • I get in an accident and I need to file a claim
  • Insurance adjuster finds undisclosed performance mods
  • Insurance company voids policy and tells me to pound sand
Could I hire an attorney and fight them? Maybe, but they have deeper pockets than I do. There is an entire profession dedicated to helping insurance companies weasel out of paying claims.

I don't really expect my mods to be covered, bonus if they are. What I'm trying to do is find a better insurance company, and also not give them an easy reason to deny a claim.
 
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The Hypothetical scenario is this:

  • I get in an accident and I need to file a claim
  • Insurance adjuster finds undisclosed performance mods
  • Insurance company voids policy and tells me to pound sand
Could I hire an attorney and fight them? Maybe, but they have deeper pockets than I do. There is an entire profession dedicated to helping insurance companies weasel out of paying claims.

I don't really expect my mods to be covered, bonus if they are. What I'm trying to do is find a better insurance company, and also not give them an easy reason to deny a claim.

For most of my adult life, I've had State Farm (auto and motorcycle) and my policies have always covered a certain amount of aftermarket parts. For my bikes its $3k in aftermarket parts. I know they also cover on my cars but not sure of the limit. I'd start shopping around insurance companies.
 
California residents with TRD S/C's: Who are you using for insurance?

Shopping around, Geico just told me they will not underwrite my truck because it has the TRD supercharger. I explained it was a dealer option and a Toyota part. Didn't budge.

They also said that if I did not disclose the presence of a supercharger to my insurer, and for whatever reason filed a claim, the insurer could refuse to pay out a dime.

Currently I'm with AAA, who are aware of the S/C although they will not cover the value for any aftermarket modification. Also, for the price, their insurance customer service suuuucks. My agent stopped returning calls. Their road side service is solid, though.

I have Geico. If I ever do wreck my 4Runner, God forbid, I plan on buying it back and parting it out. I was in a wreck with our deceased Toyota Camry (not at fault) and I had done some modifications to that vehicle as well. After 6 years and 56,000 miles later they gave us a check for more than what the vehicle was paid for new. Yes, more than what was paid for new.

To be honest, the average claims agent might spot one or two mods I've done but I doubt they'd see much more than that so I'd never expect full value for what I have. As it is right now it would sell for upwards of 9-10k in CA markets if I sold it myself and I would never dream of that much from a claim.
 
The Hypothetical scenario is this:

  • I get in an accident and I need to file a claim
  • Insurance adjuster finds undisclosed performance mods
  • Insurance company voids policy and tells me to pound sand
Could I hire an attorney and fight them? Maybe, but they have deeper pockets than I do. There is an entire profession dedicated to helping insurance companies weasel out of paying claims.

I don't really expect my mods to be covered, bonus if they are. What I'm trying to do is find a better insurance company, and also not give them an easy reason to deny a claim.
I have many friends with heavily modified cars - and have seen many insurance claims. None have ever had a problem with mods causing denied claims. Like I said, they won't pay you for the mods, but they will still fix or payout on the 'unmodified' portion. (and often, allow you to take off mods if you have access to the vehicle and put back working stock parts in their place - I helped a friend take off a TON of stuff off his car in the parking lot of a body shop with no issues)

-Charlie
 
Mines covered with Geico....never even thought to mention SC since it's a factory option.

On my old Challenger State Farm basically cancelled my policy when I put in the built motor and supercharger. Went to Grundy and never looked back and use them on my Hellcat now as well. May be something to look in to.
 
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I think I'm going to call State Farm & a few others this week for quotes.

In other news, got my truck smogged yesterday. Passed emissions with flying colors, but the tech failed my truck because the EO sticker i have D-425-2 only covers trucks to 1998. I have a 1999.

Searching this thread, I found D-425-3 which covers up to 1999 and D-425-4 which covers up to 2000, except those 2 orders refer to a smaller pulley size (2.215 vs 2.4, pretty sure I have 2.4).

So now i make an appointment with a smog referee? Anyone have experience with that? I could go & explain how the engines are the same from '96-'02, but my fear is they just go exactly by the paperwork like any other bureaucrat.

Other ideas?
 
I think I'm going to call State Farm & a few others this week for quotes.

In other news, got my truck smogged yesterday. Passed emissions with flying colors, but the tech failed my truck because the EO sticker i have D-425-2 only covers trucks to 1998. I have a 1999.

Searching this thread, I found D-425-3 which covers up to 1999 and D-425-4 which covers up to 2000, except those 2 orders refer to a smaller pulley size (2.215 vs 2.4, pretty sure I have 2.4).

So now i make an appointment with a smog referee? Anyone have experience with that? I could go & explain how the engines are the same from '96-'02, but my fear is they just go exactly by the paperwork like any other bureaucrat.

Other ideas?





Is this the one you need?..
D-425-5
 
This one should work:

https://arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/eo/D-425-13.pdf

It's more generic. I've never heard of a stock supercharger coming with a 2.215" pulley that only makes 6 PSI, it would definitely make 9-10. That EO above covers all years 95-03. But your average tech isn't going to know the difference between the 2.2 and 2.37 stock pulley.

Solid.

You guys think I should take my chances with another smog place with the new letter , or meet with a smog referee?
 
Solid.

You guys think I should take my chances with another smog place with the new letter , or meet with a smog referee?

I failed the visual test last time I got smogged. Most places offer a "free retest", I just went back and made the corrections the guy said I needed to (i.e. swapped stock parts in that were swapped back out later...) and I passed. What drives me nuts is that I passed the emissions just fine but the visual test said I cannot have certain parts modified no matter the outcome such as the stock airbox. Ugh.

Once you fail a smog it's recorded in the database. If you go to another smog shop they will see why your vehicle failed and will bring up the same reason why it failed.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Vehicle/PubTstQry.aspx - Type in your license plate
 
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I failed the visual test last time I got smogged. Most places offer a "free retest", I just went back and made the corrections the guy said I needed to (i.e. swapped stock parts in that were swapped back out later...) and I passed. What drives me nuts is that I passed the emissions just fine but the visual test said I cannot have certain parts modified no matter the outcome such as the stock airbox. Ugh.

Once you fail a smog it's recorded in the database. If you go to another smog shop they will see why your vehicle failed and will bring up the same reason why it failed.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Vehicle/PubTstQry.aspx - Type in your license plate

Thanks for the info man, I really appreciate it. I found my plate in your link.

I made an appt with the ref, bringing all of these CARB EO print outs and making my case that the S/C's have no impact on the emissions throughout the 3rd gen model years. That, and the fact the truck has been registered in CA since '99 with no issue.

Next time in I'm Sacramento, I owe you a beer!
 

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