JamesDean91
New member
Lol totally different questions. I'm talking about alt charging problems.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Lol totally different questions. I'm talking about alt charging problems.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Funny you should mention that... I installed my TRD gasket the wrong way the first time and couldn't figure it out lol. I felt dumb after taking the throttle body off and seeing that there was a gaping hole at the bottom.
You can use the stock map for the URD 7th injector, it fits almost any rig fairly well from the start.
I've never installed one myself though, and replacing the fuel pump isn't exactly a quick job on a 3rd gen. The 2nd gens had a hatch in the back so you didn't have to drop the tank...
foxrider56
New member
so whats the best way to beef up the transmission? I'm fairly young so i will be doing the red light wanna be drag races with other cars so i don't know if that matters. also just wondering what the thoughts are on 0-60 times like what it should run with stock gears, 33s a plate front bumper, i got the 1st gen with 2.2 pulley and 7th injector putting out about 8 lbs boost.
MTD
New member
5 speed swap bro!
Fishwerks
New member
I have had no issues with the IK22 plugs.
I think the dual electrode just stands up better to the wasted spark ignition on the 3.4, but someone correct me if that's wrong.
zacattack20
New member
Just make sure they are gapped correctly. URD says 0.043"
shouldbeasy
New member
Check out this thread -How to make a a340 last(56kers take a nap)- if I recall correctly, it's a transmission technicians take on a shift kit for the A340 transmission which is common throughout Toyota's line up at the time.
I shimmed my solenoids to 5/8" - 1st->2nd and also 2nd->3rd. Nothing crazy but it did firm up the shifting and it doesn't feel like a slow boat with slow shifts. It was set up for luxury cruising around town, now it shifts like it should.
afg10000
New member
Thanks, man- figured it was fine. Getting ready to install the 7th injector kit and supercharger in about two weeks. The supercharger part seems pretty straight forward. The 7th injector kit seems a bit more technical. Any tips from personal experience?
Fishwerks
New member
No worries.
Like you said the blower is straight forward, I'd have a new intake manifold gasket on hand.
Figuring out the vacuum routing was slightly time consuming because the diagrams in the install manual aren't that good in my opinion.
Haven't installed the 7th, so I can't help you there unfortunately. Someone else in this thread should be able to offer some advice though.
foxrider56
New member
4Running Daily
New member
Not hard, just a lot of parts to find. Shop cost would depend if they had done one before
MTD
New member
Its not bad if you have everything. We are swapping my roommates second one in our garage at college and he did the first one in a day or two.
shootmymime
New member
Does anyone have stock 2.37 pulley i can borrow? i want to make a 2.2 on the machine lathes at school and see how well it turns out...
so anyone have one they could ship me and let me borrow? i could hook you up with a body lift for cheep.
so anyone have one they could ship me and let me borrow? i could hook you up with a body lift for cheep.
foxrider56
New member
finally got my wideband installed and I'm running super rich at full throttle 10.2 and then when i let off the throttle its super lean, so I'm guessing thats why my power doesn't feel like its there because I'm super rich. now i gotta figure out how to tune the 7th
OI, I got my 2nd gen S/C installed d a few days ago - I must say that after a lifetime of building and working on aftermarket turbo cars, this S/C install is so easy - everything just goes together and that's that.
Overall it runs better and the power is good.
Now for the well known "bad".
I ran it a couple days with no gauges and just drove it as they say to see if the ECU would "learn" - which I actually find sort of B.S. since anything that is going to happen is gonna happen pretty quick, but that's a whole other argument.
You could notice that the engine would run inconsistency from one time to the other - the fuel supply was most probably the source of the trouble. I should add that I always use Chevron 94 octane.
So today I installed a wideband and boost gauge - I am getting 7psi of boost and the AFR was just as everyone describes - lean at tip in or light throttle under boost and then rich going into full throttle but leaning out at the top end.
I also added a high flow cat since my truck suffered from catalytic converter theft (which seems common around here) and it was replaced with a cheapo jobber cat.
The thing is here - I CAN'T TELL if it is pinging - my tires are a bit loud and I am not familiar with the ping that the 5VZ makes, if anyone has heard their 5VZ ping, maybe you could chime in:
- Is it a "faint" light pinging?
- Is it a loud, pronounced ping/knocking?
- Can it be easily heard or do you have to listen carefully? (i.e. if you had the drivers window down a little in the rain, would you hear it?)
The first thing I did was add some fuel under boost by adding a Vortech FMU - it is currently using a 6:1 calibration disc and it did cure the high RPM leaning out - I can hold 10.5-11:1 all the way to redline now.
I may add a fuel pump later.
The one pain in the ass is that it does suffer from the characteristic lean condition when at part throttle under full boost between about 2000-3000RPM - this is undoubtedly due tot he ECU staying in closed loop operation under boost - a well known problem for these and almost all vehicles that are N/A from the factory.
The FMU did make it "better" even at part throttle - but it's still lean, like 13-14:1 - you can distinctly see and feel when the ECU kicks out of closed loop at above 3000rpm since the AFR goes rich instantly at one point and the truck picks up. I suppose there are a host of devices that can fix this - like the URD piece.
I'm certain this is not the first time that these issues have been encountered.
While I could most likely add a meth injection kit to "band aid" this and make everything safer (I will also make note that the term "band aid" is sort of B.S. because ALL OF THIS is a band aid - right down to the supercharger itself!) I want to find the simplest solution for this with the least effort and cost.
Tomorrow I am going to get the chassis ears on it - I'm literally thinking if it isn't knocking I may just leave well enough alone - it runs well and if I were to start going crazy tuning it, I know it'll never end.
If it does knock, I'll have to be looking at some type of timing and/or fuel control - probably either one of the URD controllers or an AEM FIC - we will see.
One thing to note is that after the FMU install, if you simply floor it from a stand still or a roll - it has MUCH more power and won't lean out ever so that is good.
Overall it runs better and the power is good.
Now for the well known "bad".
I ran it a couple days with no gauges and just drove it as they say to see if the ECU would "learn" - which I actually find sort of B.S. since anything that is going to happen is gonna happen pretty quick, but that's a whole other argument.
You could notice that the engine would run inconsistency from one time to the other - the fuel supply was most probably the source of the trouble. I should add that I always use Chevron 94 octane.
So today I installed a wideband and boost gauge - I am getting 7psi of boost and the AFR was just as everyone describes - lean at tip in or light throttle under boost and then rich going into full throttle but leaning out at the top end.
I also added a high flow cat since my truck suffered from catalytic converter theft (which seems common around here) and it was replaced with a cheapo jobber cat.
The thing is here - I CAN'T TELL if it is pinging - my tires are a bit loud and I am not familiar with the ping that the 5VZ makes, if anyone has heard their 5VZ ping, maybe you could chime in:
- Is it a "faint" light pinging?
- Is it a loud, pronounced ping/knocking?
- Can it be easily heard or do you have to listen carefully? (i.e. if you had the drivers window down a little in the rain, would you hear it?)
The first thing I did was add some fuel under boost by adding a Vortech FMU - it is currently using a 6:1 calibration disc and it did cure the high RPM leaning out - I can hold 10.5-11:1 all the way to redline now.
I may add a fuel pump later.
The one pain in the ass is that it does suffer from the characteristic lean condition when at part throttle under full boost between about 2000-3000RPM - this is undoubtedly due tot he ECU staying in closed loop operation under boost - a well known problem for these and almost all vehicles that are N/A from the factory.
The FMU did make it "better" even at part throttle - but it's still lean, like 13-14:1 - you can distinctly see and feel when the ECU kicks out of closed loop at above 3000rpm since the AFR goes rich instantly at one point and the truck picks up. I suppose there are a host of devices that can fix this - like the URD piece.
I'm certain this is not the first time that these issues have been encountered.
While I could most likely add a meth injection kit to "band aid" this and make everything safer (I will also make note that the term "band aid" is sort of B.S. because ALL OF THIS is a band aid - right down to the supercharger itself!) I want to find the simplest solution for this with the least effort and cost.
Tomorrow I am going to get the chassis ears on it - I'm literally thinking if it isn't knocking I may just leave well enough alone - it runs well and if I were to start going crazy tuning it, I know it'll never end.
If it does knock, I'll have to be looking at some type of timing and/or fuel control - probably either one of the URD controllers or an AEM FIC - we will see.
One thing to note is that after the FMU install, if you simply floor it from a stand still or a roll - it has MUCH more power and won't lean out ever so that is good.
shootmymime
New member
I need to tune my 7th injector as well.
So question to everyone.
Can I tune live while on the highway or do I have to turn the truck off to download and upload the map?
Can I get into it live with the truck running. Can I update the number and watch my AFR and adjust it while on the highway?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Unless you've got major fuel delivery issues, it's pretty quiet. You would not hear it with a window rolled down.
It's either Speedy or Gadget that has a nice long tutorial or video that shows how to tune it yourself. I think you would be better off finding a long deserted road rather than a highway (unless your highways are long and deserted!). I remember he had to stop the vehicle in order to look over his AFR recordings and adjust.
shootmymime
New member
But if you don't have a second driver you have to stop and adjust. I'm asking can I make changes while running down the road with my wife driving.
I'll be watching afr and slowly changing as I go.
I'll be watching afr and slowly changing as I go.
