The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[gamefreakgc]

Quick question for all of you. My 96 4Runner has 250k on it. Just did a compression test and all cylinders are right around 180psi. I'm looking to supercharge it and looking for people's opinions and experience with my mileage and compresion numbers. I'd be lying if I said I wouldnt drive it hard, but I will be keeping the stock pulley.

Thanks in advance.

Mine's got 193k miles and has had the supercharger on it for at least 100,000 miles, maybe even longer, the previous owner wasn't sure. As long as you are up to date in maintenance (spark plugs, filters, fluids, etc.) so you don't get massive amount of ping and lean conditions, I'd say do it.

Hello Guys,

After a year and a half, I'm finally getting ready to install my SC! However, before I do....I have a quick question: how often are you suppose to change the oil in your SC? I purchased mine used and it has a little over 10,xxx miles on it. Didn't want to pull the nose cone off the SC unless a really needed to.

Thanks for the help...

-Russel

You can just remove the drain plug with an allen wrench on the front of the nose cone and dump it out. Easy-peasy 5 min job.

Is the S/C new or used? If used, then I agree just put on the new coupler, seal it up and call it good for another 30k+ miles. If it's new, don't even bother changing anything, it'll be fine.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

So, I have an interesting problem. Recently my sc has been making a lot of noise. Sounded to me like the coupler, so I took the nose off, drilled and taped an oil change port, and installed new coupler and oil. In the process, I discovered that the noise most likely was actually from the pulley. The pulley had play. The bearings and shaft all seem stable, but the pulley itself moves around.. Back and forth and side to side. I cranked down the pulley nut, and that solved the problem for all of 5 miles. So, my question is... Where can I get a new stock pulley, and how the hell do get it off... Seems like there is no room behind it get a puller to work.... I have the grey sc. Thanks

 

[RussToy]

So, I have an interesting problem. Recently my sc has been making a lot of noise. Sounded to me like the coupler, so I took the nose off, drilled and taped an oil change port, and installed new coupler and oil. In the process, I discovered that the noise most likely was actually from the pulley. The pulley had play. The bearings and shaft all seem stable, but the pulley itself moves around.. Back and forth and side to side. I cranked down the pulley nut, and that solved the problem for all of 5 miles. So, my question is... Where can I get a new stock pulley, and how the hell do get it off... Seems like there is no room behind it get a puller to work.... I have the grey sc. Thanks

URD sales a puller for the pulley. I believe it's like $45. As far as a stock pulley...I haven't seen any new ones for sale. Although, there's a ton of guys on here that have changed over to the 2.2 or 2.1 pulley. So they should have their stock ones laying around. I'd post up a request...maybe someone will hook you up.

Link to puller:
Underdog Racing Development

Good luck

- Russel

 

[SCRunner12]

I just took a small hammer and tapped the pulley off rotating it as I went. I might have an extra pulley, but let me see if it is damaged.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

URD sales a puller for the pulley. I believe it's like $45. As far as a stock pulley...I haven't seen any new ones for sale. Although, there's a ton of guys on here that have changed over to the 2.2 or 2.1 pulley. So they should have their stock ones laying around. I'd post up a request...maybe someone will hook you up.

Link to puller:
Underdog Racing Development

Good luck

- Russel

I just took a small hammer and tapped the pulley off rotating it as I went. I might have an extra pulley, but let me see if it is damaged.

Thanks guys! The nut somehow came off a while ago, and the pulley has had play ever since... hopefully I don't have to pull the nose off again! Ill post in the wanted/ classified section and see if anyone has one. Anyone have any luck with the pulley boys pulleys??? don't want a 2.2 inch, as I don't have the 7th, but a 2.3 might be ok.

 

[afg10000]

Hello Guys,

After a year and a half, I'm finally getting ready to install my SC! However, before I do....I have a quick question: how often are you suppose to change the oil in your SC? I purchased mine used and it has a little over 10,xxx miles on it. Didn't want to pull the nose cone off the SC unless a really needed to.

Thanks for the help...

-Russel

That oil friggin STINKS. I thought old gear oil was foul but this takes the cake. My SC had 68,000 and we changed the oil before install. Do it in a well ventilated area.

 

[foxrider56]

so I'm looking into catch cans and I'm wondering if this one is okay?Billet Aluminum Racing Engine Oil Catch Reservoir Tank Can Hose Indicator Gold | eBay also where is everyone installing theirs ? and what line are they splicing into. for some reason i can't find the post in here that was about catch cans

 

[RussToy]

That oil friggin STINKS. I thought old gear oil was foul but this takes the cake. My SC had 68,000 and we changed the oil before install. Do it in a well ventilated area.

I'm suppose to do this Sunday...So, thank you, thank you, thank you for the heads up!! I can't stand the smell of old gear oil either...and if this smells worst... ainkiller: ...Wow!! I'll make sure it's well ventilated and a fan blowing towards outside! Better yet...I'll just ask my buddy to do this part, while I go on a "parts run" or something...lol!!!

Thanks again for the heads up...

-Russel

 

[shootmymime]

so I'm looking into catch cans and I'm wondering if this one is okay?Billet Aluminum Racing Engine Oil Catch Reservoir Tank Can Hose Indicator Gold | eBay also where is everyone installing theirs ? and what line are they splicing into. for some reason i can't find the post in here that was about catch cans

It's got to be the one from the pcv vale into throttle body. That one.

 

[foxrider56]

so this is the first supercharged vehicle I've owned, when i punch it it will get going pretty decent but then after a few seconds something kicks in and it runs like a bat outta hell, is that when it enters open loop? is there any way to make that kick in earlier and tune it to do that with the 7th injector system.
thanks, sorry for the inexperience .

 

[MTD]

so this is the first supercharged vehicle I've owned, when i punch it it will get going pretty decent but then after a few seconds something kicks in and it runs like a bat outta hell, is that when it enters open loop? is there any way to make that kick in earlier and tune it to do that with the 7th injector system.
thanks, sorry for the inexperience .

Do you have an Afr gauge or possibly a scan gauge or ultra gauge? That would tell you exactly what is happening. Unfortunately if it is from going into open loop with out buying additional tuner there is nothing you can do since the 7th injector is useless in closed loop.

 

[awpsome]

Do you have an Afr gauge or possibly a scan gauge or ultra gauge? That would tell you exactly what is happening. Unfortunately if it is from going into open loop with out buying additional tuner there is nothing you can do since the 7th injector is useless in closed loop.

I wouldn't say the 7th is useless in closed loop.

Although the truck ECU will be constantly adjusting and fighting to keep the truck at 14.7 the 7th will still be able to activate in closed loop.

I had an issue where at small amounts of boost maybe 1-2psi but still well in closed loop the truck would start to lean toward 15+ AFRs.

Adjusted my 7th to do a short quick burst at that psi at the 2500RPM ish range and now i see it down at a comfortable 13.8~ AFR range. I believe i added the very minimum duty cycle at a spray time of 1.1 which returns a 0.1 spray time at the given PSI/RPM range.

I cant it'll fix the problem the user is mentioning above, but i just wanted to give feedback that the 7th is still very useful in closed loop while its most effective tuning potential will be for open loop.

 

[MTD]

I still maintain my statement, though It may have worked for your little issue, it won't be useful in a situation like mine where I only see open loop at WOT. And by design the truck should only be in open loop at WOT. It is not good practice to run the 7th in closed loop either because it has the potential to put unwanted strain on the motor from essentially delayed fueling.

The issue with the 7th is that they sell it as THE must have kit for anyone who is supercharged, but it won't fix most the issues most people have. Idk about you guys but I have perfect afr's in open loop, 11.4-12.0, but I run lean in part throttle boost and the damn thing won't even tune part throttle/closed loop!

 

[foxrider56]

Do you have an Afr gauge or possibly a scan gauge or ultra gauge? That would tell you exactly what is happening. Unfortunately if it is from going into open loop with out buying additional tuner there is nothing you can do since the 7th injector is useless in closed loop.

yes i have a wideband afr gauge and the numbers look completely fine the whole time, I'm just curious as to why it just kicks in and gets going a lot more then it was, is this normal or should it always be like that?

 

[MTD]

yes i have a wideband afr gauge and the numbers look completely fine the whole time, I'm just curious as to why it just kicks in and gets going a lot more then it was, is this normal or should it always be like that?

Could it be your trans? I have no idea what a s/c auto is like. I know my old na auto was doggy for a bit down low

 

[shootmymime]

So here is a question for you guys.

High rpm high boost my wide band displays 11-12 ish. Then after I come over the hill and go back to normal driving my wife band displays 15-16 for 3-5 seconds like its leaning it's self out after the large amount of fuel. Then after those few seconds it goes back to 14.8 ish.

 

[MTD]

So here is a question for you guys.

High rpm high boost my wide band displays 11-12 ish. Then after I come over the hill and go back to normal driving my wife band displays 15-16 for 3-5 seconds like its leaning it's self out after the large amount of fuel. Then after those few seconds it goes back to 14.8 ish.

When letting off the throttle (or cruise letting off the throttle) the truck will momentarily shut the injectors off causing that spike, its perfectly normal and nothing to worry about.

 

[shootmymime]

When letting off the throttle (or cruise letting off the throttle) the truck will momentarily shut the injectors off causing that spike, its perfectly normal and nothing to worry about.

but im still on part throttle, just not WOT like i was when im in open loop at 6psi boost and 12 arf.

id still be maintaining my speed say 65 ish but im wondering if anyone else does the same thing.

when i come off WOT to normal cruising speed thats then it goes up to 15-16s

ill try to take a video tomorrow or something.
i need to check my spark plugs and see how they look after 8k miles of the SC being on.

does it happen to anyone else?

 

[MTD]

but im still on part throttle, just not WOT like i was when im in open loop at 6psi boost and 12 arf.

id still be maintaining my speed say 65 ish but im wondering if anyone else does the same thing.

when i come off WOT to normal cruising speed thats then it goes up to 15-16s

ill try to take a video tomorrow or something.
i need to check my spark plugs and see how they look after 8k miles of the SC being on.

does it happen to anyone else?

It's still perfectly normal basically your cruise control and you are on and off the gas constantly to maintain that speed. And whenever you let off the gas its going to spike because there's no gas going into the cylinders.

 

[gamefreakgc]

yes i have a wideband afr gauge and the numbers look completely fine the whole time, I'm just curious as to why it just kicks in and gets going a lot more then it was, is this normal or should it always be like that?

Could it be your trans? I have no idea what a s/c auto is like. I know my old na auto was doggy for a bit down low

The whole point of a supercharger over a turbo is instant power. With no fuel mods (yet) once I touch the throttle it responds and quickly. Autos are just the same, and if you hit the ECT Power button it's even quicker.

Also, can I just say this: why are you looking for major power gains at 1-2 PSI? If you need more power or more speed, just press on the pedal more! You've already got the 7th injector, just use throttle when you need it. You will never get instant power at 1-2 PSI on any vehicle, no one builds their engine that way. That's why the engine is designed to have an open loop, it throws sensor readings out the window to ignore emissions and just goes for raw power. That's where you should be tuning, not in closed loop.