The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[MTD]

The whole point of a supercharger over a turbo is instant power.

Agreed.

With no fuel mods (yet) once I touch the throttle it responds and quickly. Autos are just the same, and if you hit the ECT Power button it's even quicker.

Yes, my statement was more focused on the fact that there might be something up with his trans. ie short shifting, or dwelling...

Also, can I just say this: why are you looking for major power gains at 1-2 PSI? If you need more power or more speed, just press on the pedal more! You've already got the 7th injector, just use throttle when you need it. You will never get instant power at 1-2 PSI on any vehicle, no one builds their engine that way. That's why the engine is designed to have an open loop, it throws sensor readings out the window to ignore emissions and just goes for raw power. That's where you should be tuning, not in closed loop.

Okay... so we are going to tune so the vehicle only runs right at wide open and that's it? NO! This is completely and utterly wrong and it's the crap information that these forums have been feeding you guys along with the "apparent" monopoly URD has on this market with their sub par products! You tune to make the car run right first ie part throttle boost then work your way to WOT,not this 'lets make all the power on the top end BS'! And BTW in open loop it is still using sensors it just switches the ones it's using (O2 to MAF). The main issue is you are still destroying your motor even if you have the 7th but you boost it lean at part throttle. Contrary to popular belief WOT is not the only issue with our setups...

 

[gamefreakgc]

Except that you can't tune our ECU's when it's in closed loop. That's the real issue here. A piggyback controller like the AEM or SplitSecond are just tricking the ECU to try and control fuel trims, but it's not ideal. If we could actually flash or tune the ECU itself, you could achieve a more stable powerband. But we can't, so trying to get gobs of power at low boost just isn't going to yield much.

 

[Lego3k1]

So I finally got around to installing the used supercharger I bought yesterday and I have a few questions. I think this might be a vacuum leak or a vacuum hose not connected right, but when I accelerate in any gear it hesitates then the engine rpm will increase. I didn't have a chance to take a look at it, but will be tommorow morning. If anyone has a idea of what it might possibly be that would help a lot. It is a 96 3.4. 5 speed. I read all 53 pages and could not really find a similar situation. The sc was used and I changed the nose cone oil before installing it. Thanks in advance.

 

[shootmymime]

So I finally got around to installing the used supercharger I bought yesterday and I have a few questions. I think this might be a vacuum leak or a vacuum hose not connected right, but when I accelerate in any gear it hesitates then the engine rpm will increase. I didn't have a chance to take a look at it, but will be tommorow morning. If anyone has a idea of what it might possibly be that would help a lot. It is a 96 3.4. 5 speed. I read all 53 pages and could not really find a similar situation. The sc was used and I changed the nose cone oil before installing it. Thanks in advance.

id just check over everything again. make sure you have no vac leaks, make sure the throttle body gasket is on properly, make sure your MAF is clean.

 

[Lego3k1]

id just check over everything again. make sure you have no vac leaks, make sure the throttle body gasket is on properly, make sure your MAF is clean.

Yeah Tb gasket is on properly. I capped the line going to the ps idle booster for now. I think I might be too lean since I have the deck plate mode I have 6 1 1/4 holes. I looked it over quickly and went for a run. Went wot in first gear hesitated, then Rpms went up. Then I heard the marbles, what I take is ping.

I taped over the 6 holes in my deck plate mode and went for another spin, the hesitation is still there but it did settle down a bit. I'm running chevron 91 octane for reference.

 

[MTD]

Except that you can't tune our ECU's when it's in closed loop. That's the real issue here. A piggyback controller like the AEM or SplitSecond are just tricking the ECU to try and control fuel trims, but it's not ideal. If we could actually flash or tune the ECU itself, you could achieve a more stable powerband. But we can't, so trying to get gobs of power at low boost just isn't going to yield much.

But we can tune closed loop! Full standalone/reflash isn't an option yes, but not doing jack shit is a much much worse option. I personally do not trust any of the split second stuff, the AEM though has been proven on all types of vehicles and has been shown to work marvelous for an application like ours. And if it is used in conjunction with a nice wideband with a data feed there is no issue since it knows what the afrs are and you can tune in a failsafe then if you want. Also AEM doesn't modify just the trims it physically remaps the injector signal unlike the SS and also can pull timing.

My point is that its idiotic to ignore a problem, because the solution is not ideal to you.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I finally got around to installing the used supercharger I bought yesterday and I have a few questions. I think this might be a vacuum leak or a vacuum hose not connected right, but when I accelerate in any gear it hesitates then the engine rpm will increase. I didn't have a chance to take a look at it, but will be tommorow morning. If anyone has a idea of what it might possibly be that would help a lot. It is a 96 3.4. 5 speed. I read all 53 pages and could not really find a similar situation. The sc was used and I changed the nose cone oil before installing it. Thanks in advance.

I have heard from several people that pre 98 ECU's don't play as well with the supercharger. I never did find out why, so I bought a 98 that's supercharged instead of an earlier year.

Check for vacuum leaks and then pull the EFI relay or negative battery terminal to reset the fuel trims. You've completely changed the fuel/air ratios so it needs to relearn everything. Give it a few days and then see if it improves.

 

[afg10000]

I have heard from several people that pre 98 ECU's don't play as well with the supercharger. I never did find out why, so I bought a 98 that's supercharged instead of an earlier year.

Check for vacuum leaks and then pull the EFI relay or negative battery terminal to reset the fuel trims. You've completely changed the fuel/air ratios so it needs to relearn everything. Give it a few days and then see if it improves.

I was just going to say that. My rig was pretty pissy for about two days after install. After the computers were happy, it runs like a champ. The one thing that hasn't been mentioned - IAC check valve installed the correct direction?

 

[Lego3k1]

Thanks guys. So it's progresively getting better than it was the first day with it. I will check the iac check valve to make sure it's right. I think the biggest issue was it was running lean with my deck plate mod, apart from it not being able to keep up without it. I still get pinging under WOT. Well keep driving it hard to see if it settles down some more. When I installed it I left the battery disconnected for two days so the Ecu should have reset all prior fuel maps. Thanks guys slowly but surely I'm getting her to where she should be.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks guys. So it's progresively getting better than it was the first day with it. I will check the iac check valve to make sure it's right. I think the biggest issue was it was running lean with my deck plate mod, apart from it not being able to keep up without it. I still get pinging under WOT. Well keep driving it hard to see if it settles down some more. When I installed it I left the battery disconnected for two days so the Ecu should have reset all prior fuel maps. Thanks guys slowly but surely I'm getting her to where she should be.

Here's a few tips on how to reduce ping (as opposed to spending $500+ on fuel mods):

Use cooler Iridium spark plugs, I think IK-20 and IK-22 DENSOs are most commonly used. Some people say one step cooler, some two.

Use 91 octane or higher fuel, no exceptions. Congratulations, you've going the performance crowd that has to permanently pay more for gas.

Make sure your maintenance is up to snuff and clean that MAF sensor if you haven't lately.

 

[Lego3k1]

Here's a few tips on how to reduce ping (as opposed to spending $500+ on fuel mods):

Use cooler Iridium spark plugs, I think IK-20 and IK-22 DENSOs are most commonly used. Some people say one step cooler, some two.

Use 91 octane or higher fuel, no exceptions. Congratulations, you've going the performance crowd that has to permanently pay more for gas.

Make sure your maintenance is up to snuff and clean that MAF sensor if you haven't lately.

Thanks for the tips. The thing is I already installed ik-22 from the beginning, cleaned my maf, and in ca we only have 91 octane unless I bu racing fuel. Still trying to figure out excactly what's going on. I'm about to pull the Ecu fuse and reset my fuel map again. It didn't ping yesterday but the power surge is still there on wot.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Ahh, sorry to hear that. I also live in Cali so it's 91 for me. I have virtually no ping, only when the engine is real hot after 45 min+ driving will I get it at low RPMs, not at WOT though.

I've been told carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber can increase pre-detonation (pinging), a can of seafoam or some other heavy combustion chamber cleaner might help.

 

[Lego3k1]

Ahh, sorry to hear that. I also live in Cali so it's 91 for me. I have virtually no ping, only when the engine is real hot after 45 min+ driving will I get it at low RPMs, not at WOT though.

I've been told carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber can increase pre-detonation (pinging), a can of seafoam or some other heavy combustion chamber cleaner might help.

I ran seafoam in preparation of the sc install a week prior lol. I'll just keep trying until I get it right.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I ran seafoam in preparation of the sc install a week prior lol. I'll just keep trying until I get it right.

Seems like you've already thought through this a lot. This might be one of the "pre-98 ECU issues" that some forums mentioned.

 

[Lego3k1]

Seems like you've already thought through this a lot. This might be one of the "pre-98 ECU issues" that some forums mentioned.

Unfortunately I did. Wish it was something simple. Thanks.

 

[foxrider56]

alright so this is what I'm talking about with how when i get on it, it will go decent, but then something will kick in and then push me into my seat and give it more fuel(urd 7th injector system) however should it kick in a lot sooner ? , i tried to take a video sorry if its not the best but it should give a decent idea of what I'm saying afr is 14.7 for a while then something kicks in and afr is in the 12s which is ideal from what I've read
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FPX4nQzFaw

 

[shootmymime]

You don't know if you have a piggy back or 7th injector?

 

[foxrider56]

You don't know if you have a piggy back or 7th injector?

i have the urd 7th injector system

 

[shootmymime]

i have the urd 7th injector system

You know I had that same thought. When should the 7th injector kick in when I've got my foot in it pushing 5 psi as the gauge says and creeping up around 3500 rpm.


So my original map didn't kick in the injector until 3 psi and 4k rpm. (I was also having boost pressure problems so my gauge showed 5 psi and the urd was only reading 2.5-3 psi, so not enough to turn the injector on so I would consistently be at 14.8 afr no matter what rpm or boost.)


So I changed my map myself while doing some runs on the highway in between on ramps. (On off turn around and repeat) I found out to bring my kick on rpm down to 3000 and pressure to around 3 psi. From there I adjusted the numbers live as I saw where it was leaning out. Then turned the truck off loaded the new adjusted map numbers into the urd box and tested it again.

My final results are
14.8 afr cruising
13.5 mild boost and 3,000 rpm and 12 sometimes high 11 when I'm balls to the wall lets get up this hill while going 80 pulling a trailer.

Over all I am very pleased with my new adjusted map. One problem, I just bought a 2.2 pulley and will need to do it all over again. YAY!

So good luck and see if you can figure out working the computer program as you tune your truck.

Hit me up with any more questions you have!

 

[foxrider56]

You know I had that same thought. When should the 7th injector kick in when I've got my foot in it pushing 5 psi as the gauge says and creeping up around 3500 rpm.


So my original map didn't kick in the injector until 3 psi and 4k rpm. (I was also having boost pressure problems so my gauge showed 5 psi and the urd was only reading 2.5-3 psi, so not enough to turn the injector on so I would consistently be at 14.8 afr no matter what rpm or boost.)


So I changed my map myself while doing some runs on the highway in between on ramps. (On off turn around and repeat) I found out to bring my kick on rpm down to 3000 and pressure to around 3 psi. From there I adjusted the numbers live as I saw where it was leaning out. Then turned the truck off loaded the new adjusted map numbers into the urd box and tested it again.

My final results are
14.8 afr cruising
13.5 mild boost and 3,000 rpm and 12 sometimes high 11 when I'm balls to the wall lets get up this hill while going 80 pulling a trailer.

Over all I am very pleased with my new adjusted map. One problem, I just bought a 2.2 pulley and will need to do it all over again. YAY!

So good luck and see if you can figure out working the computer program as you tune your truck.

Hit me up with any more questions you have!

so i looked under the hood and suspected that the boost port to the 7th wasn't reading correct so i just un hooked it and re hooked it then gave some more slack into the box and i fixed it haha. I'm now getting 13.5 afr under full load, but then it will kick down to 12. so i think I'm pretty good? those seem like decent numbers correct?