Right on. Im up in the blaine, Fridley area. I tossed on a super charger/7th injector kit a couple months ago. Hoping to find someone local that has any tuning experience?
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Right on. Im up in the blaine, Fridley area. I tossed on a super charger/7th injector kit a couple months ago. Hoping to find someone local that has any tuning experience?
I already had an order in with Jon Bond for a new coupler and rear bypass orings. I am going to install those and see if that fixes my issue before doing a full rebuild. I may have jumped into installing this earlier than I should have, probably should done a full rebuild first.
Also how bad is it to drive around with the diesel noise? Should I be parking it until new parts or ok to drive short distances.
Again sorry for all the questions!
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
The coupler might help. There's nothing too terrible about clattering superchargers, except for the fact if they have too much play they will start to contact the housing. It's not an end of the world sort of thing but if you are chasing performance, too much spacing between the housing and rotors or the rotors themselves will start to cause a loss of boost pressure.
I should note, even when brand new these chargers rattle. You can search youtube for sound clips of what a new one sounds like and what a one that needs a rebuild sounds like.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
For those with the black 4th Gen superchargers, I've had this bookmarked for a long time and the price has really dropped for nose cones:
https://trdshop.carlocktoyotaoftupelo.com/oem-parts/toyota-nose-cone-34v6-blk-0060217620226
They retail at around only $150. That's pretty darn cheap for what you get, including a new pulley. Just a heads up.
These were going for $300 just a few years ago.
https://trdshop.carlocktoyotaoftupelo.com/oem-parts/toyota-nose-cone-34v6-blk-0060217620226
They retail at around only $150. That's pretty darn cheap for what you get, including a new pulley. Just a heads up.
These were going for $300 just a few years ago.
White Stripe
New member
The Grey superchargers are cake to rebuild. It's just a standard m62 compressor. A rebuild kit on ebay is like 200 bucks.
Does the Black cone bolt up to the grey body?
I will look into this if the coupler doesnt solve my issue.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Unfortunately no, it only works on the black 4th gen chargers.
Overpressure
Okay guys. I have my overpressure set to 1psi. When I hit Boost my AFRs go down to about 12AFR for a second (ST trims go high for a sec then go back to 14.7) then go back to mid 13s and hover all around going from low to high 13s no matter where I am in Boost. Does not seem normal. Split Second said it should hold pretty steady. What’s going on?
I’m wondering if I have a super tiny leak in my exhaust before the stock AFR sensor and it’s sucking in air when I get into Boost. I did a shit job on the AFR sensor. Had to use one of the clamped bungs in a bad place because I couldn’t get the CAT off.
It might also be a small vac leak somewhere as well although I’ve checked and I can get a full 6-7PSI of Boost.
Sometimes when speeding up and just before Boost I’ll get a tiny amount of repetitive surging. I can’t feel it but I can hear it and the Tachometer bounces a tiny amount.
I also get this symptom sometimes when I’m ildling with the AC on. Tachometer bouncing, AFRs going between 14.1-14.7. But a little gas and it’s gone.
Okay guys. I have my overpressure set to 1psi. When I hit Boost my AFRs go down to about 12AFR for a second (ST trims go high for a sec then go back to 14.7) then go back to mid 13s and hover all around going from low to high 13s no matter where I am in Boost. Does not seem normal. Split Second said it should hold pretty steady. What’s going on?
I’m wondering if I have a super tiny leak in my exhaust before the stock AFR sensor and it’s sucking in air when I get into Boost. I did a shit job on the AFR sensor. Had to use one of the clamped bungs in a bad place because I couldn’t get the CAT off.
It might also be a small vac leak somewhere as well although I’ve checked and I can get a full 6-7PSI of Boost.
Sometimes when speeding up and just before Boost I’ll get a tiny amount of repetitive surging. I can’t feel it but I can hear it and the Tachometer bounces a tiny amount.
I also get this symptom sometimes when I’m ildling with the AC on. Tachometer bouncing, AFRs going between 14.1-14.7. But a little gas and it’s gone.
Yoter
New member
Wow is this complete with all the bearings, coupler, oil etc....
I opened one with over 100k miles and it still looks like new inside but since its apart I might as well rebuild or replace with this nose cone.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Try doing a poor man's smoke test by seafoaming your intake. Take a flashlight under your exhaust and you'll see if there's a leak, smoke will puff out.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
If in good condition and doesn't need an immediate rebuild, $1500 - $2000.
You could sell it here in the Classified section of the forums pretty easy.
Taylor20
New member
Thanks. That’s the ballpark range I was assuming.
It will be for sale pretty soon.
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Is there much difference between the black SC and the grey on resale price?
kook rooster
New member
DM me when you are ready to sell - I am VERY interested. What is the condition and do you have any accessories with it such as 7th injector?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yes and no. The grey ones are an older version of the black ones, so they tend to go for cheaper since they usually have more miles on them and almost always need a rebuild, which is more costly to do than on a black one.
That being said, there are some performance advantages the grey ones have the black do not. Some say they make a tiny bit more boost (unverified) but more importantly, the grey ones can be ported to make power power since you can remove the M62 charger from the casting, where with the black ones they are cast as a solid unit and cannot.
Yoter
New member
Why did you remove your supercharger?
Gotcha. Also I got the parts from Jon Bond and replaced the coupler and the bypass Orings. The diesel sound at idle is less but not gone I know some nose is normal. Also I was clearly loosing boost through the orings, there is a noticeable difference now.
Thanks guys for all the help with my stupid questions!
Sean-Himself
New member
Could you elaborate on the "losing boost through the o-rings"? I've been tearing my hair out trying to find my low boost issue
Too much pressure/boost. Personally only seen it on older/used setup's versus the new ones. Happened recently on a friends setup ended up getting O-rings he had already new and fixed his blow by/leak issue.
Did you also the by-pass valve right direction? Just item's i've seen from personal experience and having to fix my own mistakes.
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