The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
- Thread starter da_crew10
- Start date
- Status
Dieselchessy
New member
I saw those while I was searching for solutions. Had I known I’d of ordered them when I ordered the other lift parts.
If I have to address front shocks again I’ll just order new top hats.
If I have to address front shocks again I’ll just order new top hats.
the only thing you might want to add is the rubber ring that fits into the oil fill cap.Those can leak too when they get old with a little blow by pressure....not meaning rings ...meaning just normal pressure in the engine. Some are so brittle that they look like hard plastic and part of the cap.
sorry dont have the part # handy
da_crew10
New member
Got the fronts done super easy. Used a spring conpressor and both transfered easy. Used the botle jack method on top of the UCA.
Moved on to the ball joints. Arrived as I was wrapping up the front strut replacement. Only to find that Toyota sent me two LH lbj. That was a bummer, but again easy to do.
Proceeded to do the rears. Rear springs were a breeze to remove. Only to come to a halt. Both rear top nuts were either seized to hell or I am too weak.
Question. I am considering cutting them off. If so where do y'all recommend I do so?
Moved on to the ball joints. Arrived as I was wrapping up the front strut replacement. Only to find that Toyota sent me two LH lbj. That was a bummer, but again easy to do.
Proceeded to do the rears. Rear springs were a breeze to remove. Only to come to a halt. Both rear top nuts were either seized to hell or I am too weak.
Question. I am considering cutting them off. If so where do y'all recommend I do so?
spartacus
Senior Member
Below the shock mount above the top washer on the shock, a Sawzall will make short work out of it.
da_crew10
New member
Yikes sounds easier said than done. Fitting on in such a tight area sounds fun.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Two other options:
1. Hold the nut with a wrench, and use a strap or pipe wrench to turn the shock body (this is what worked for me)
2. Take the shock off the lower (axle) mount, then simply rock it back and forth as far as you can until the stud on top snaps in two.
higher mileage with work done, or lower mileage?
Hi all,
One main thing I'm wrangling with when looking to buy my first 3rd gen is if I should go with something that has higher mileage, but more work done (T-belt/water pump and or ball joints replaced) or lower mileage, but less of the big ticket items.
In y'alls experience which would you prefer?
Hi all,
One main thing I'm wrangling with when looking to buy my first 3rd gen is if I should go with something that has higher mileage, but more work done (T-belt/water pump and or ball joints replaced) or lower mileage, but less of the big ticket items.
In y'alls experience which would you prefer?
Dieselchessy
New member
I prefer folks leave stuff alone. I don’t want cheap aftermarket parts in critical areas. Plus it’s a waist to have folks replace all the front brakes with OEM spec stuff, cause I’ll just toss it going to Tundra stuff.
But I do all the work myself, so only parts price is a concern and most of the stuff can be wrapped up for $1k in parts.
I look for no rust. Hate dealing with that. Once rusty there is no full recovery.
And good maintenance, preferably good oil changed more often than every 5k. And no goofy modifications. And no body damage. Body work is expensive and annoying to deal with.
Plus the rig needs to be such that it can be turned into what you want to end with.
Like don’t buy an auto if you want a manual. Don’t by a limited if you don’t want all the plastic gingerbread, and wood interior.
Locker can be added for about $600.
Tundra brakes about $500.
Timing belt and valve cover gaskets $400.
All suspension bushings replaced about $300 wrapped up with a lift.
Center console swap $100.
If it’s going to be your daily, then buy something that’s in good running shape and only needs work like listed above that can be tackled on weekends when funds allow.
Make a list in order of importance and spend a car payment each month buying the parts and working through the list.
Ask questions on here. Some of these guys are 4runner whisperers with amazing skills, knowledge, and generosity.
But I do all the work myself, so only parts price is a concern and most of the stuff can be wrapped up for $1k in parts.
I look for no rust. Hate dealing with that. Once rusty there is no full recovery.
And good maintenance, preferably good oil changed more often than every 5k. And no goofy modifications. And no body damage. Body work is expensive and annoying to deal with.
Plus the rig needs to be such that it can be turned into what you want to end with.
Like don’t buy an auto if you want a manual. Don’t by a limited if you don’t want all the plastic gingerbread, and wood interior.
Locker can be added for about $600.
Tundra brakes about $500.
Timing belt and valve cover gaskets $400.
All suspension bushings replaced about $300 wrapped up with a lift.
Center console swap $100.
If it’s going to be your daily, then buy something that’s in good running shape and only needs work like listed above that can be tackled on weekends when funds allow.
Make a list in order of importance and spend a car payment each month buying the parts and working through the list.
Ask questions on here. Some of these guys are 4runner whisperers with amazing skills, knowledge, and generosity.
Last edited:
Thanks for the detailed response!
Yeah I feel that I am very wary of others work as well, but in my price range (under 6K and preferably under 5k) I feel like most of what I'm seeing is either 185k with oil changes and nothing else done or 220k with some t-belt and ball joints etc.
If it was closer to 150k maybe I'd feel better with the lower mileage and doing the work myself, but as it approaches 200k I guess I get apprehensive.
Maybe I just need to change my mindset to wrap it around the longevity of 4runners though. If so many get to 300k then that difference of 45-50k miles isnt such a worry eh.
Yeah I feel that I am very wary of others work as well, but in my price range (under 6K and preferably under 5k) I feel like most of what I'm seeing is either 185k with oil changes and nothing else done or 220k with some t-belt and ball joints etc.
If it was closer to 150k maybe I'd feel better with the lower mileage and doing the work myself, but as it approaches 200k I guess I get apprehensive.
Maybe I just need to change my mindset to wrap it around the longevity of 4runners though. If so many get to 300k then that difference of 45-50k miles isnt such a worry eh.
Dieselchessy
New member
200k well maintained on a 3rd gen is like 100k well maintained on a Ford or Chevy.
You easily have another 100k on the rig.
Around my parts 5-6k is a good price range. 45-50k is 3 years or so for me. Something to consider, but past maintenance and current condition are much more important.
For example, I bought my current rig, 5spd, locker, no sunroof, knowing it would need an engine soon. Cost me 2k to install a JDM with all new seals ect...
I can’t get rid of a sunroof, and swapping to a 5spd and locker is much more work than a motor swap. And I have a motor core now.
You’ve got to consider the finish and how you’ll get there when purchasing the start.
da_crew10
New member
Got mine recently all stock with 250k. I rather mod it myself. Most people use spacer lifts and aftermarket maintenance parts rather than oem.
Unless you find a good deal with good quality parts.
Thats a really good point. I think for me I'm not looking for a lot of the off-road capabilities of the 4runner that many are. What really attracted me to it is the reliability. The customization and other capabilities are huge pluses, but I'm more looking for a solid rig that I can take up 4x4 roads for dispersed camping and won't need to always be fretting about something blowing up on me.
With that in mind I'm thinking I should lean towards rigs that have already had work done just so I know its not a threat around the corner (anymore than usual for 200k+). Truth be told too I'm only looking to have it for 1.5 to 2 years before we move abroad so this might not be my lifetime 4runner.
To give you an idea of my two sort of options:
This first option is the more mileage, but more work done:
1996 Toyota 4runner SR5 - cars & trucks - by dealer - vehicle...
Second is less mileage, but less work or no hard records just word of mouth done my oil changes:
1998 Toyota 4Runner - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive...
2000 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 4x4 - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...
Thats just a general gist of what I've been seeing.
Last edited:
Dieselchessy
New member
Just off the adds
96 looks best. Clean no hokey stuff. Odd they say “new wheels and tires” look like original wheels.
98 has a mishmash interior. Carpet bleached out on tranny hump. Dirty carpet.
2000 looks trashed with kid stuff like plasti-coat wheels and stickers. Front bumper looks odd where it meats the limited fender flares. From Newjersey (rust?).
What are your adds from such a large spread out area?
96 looks best. Clean no hokey stuff. Odd they say “new wheels and tires” look like original wheels.
98 has a mishmash interior. Carpet bleached out on tranny hump. Dirty carpet.
2000 looks trashed with kid stuff like plasti-coat wheels and stickers. Front bumper looks odd where it meats the limited fender flares. From Newjersey (rust?).
What are your adds from such a large spread out area?
My thoughts as well. 96 looks the best, but I've also heard 96 has had the most head gasket issues so that gives me pause.
Area is so spread out because I'm in Denver so on top of the Toyota tax theres also a 4runner tax since so many people head up to the mountains for skiing and hiking. That 96 would be listed for 8/9k here.
I have family in those areas that I am comfortable looking over the car for me so trying to expand a bit (also trying to stick to the South a bit for no rust so that NJ has me worried too)
Venka93
New member
This might be a dumb question but I know nothing about axels so bear with me please. Since the 3rd gen came with a couple different kinds of front differentials does that mean that the axels are different too? Looking to get some oem axels from the junk yard and not sure if I can just find any 4wd 4runner to pull some.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Other than ratios, the front differentials were all the same (on the 3rd gen 4Runner). The axles will all be the same. Try to find OEM axles if you can.
The only different axles are for the manual hub Tacomas, but those would be rare to find in the junkyard.
-Charlie
da_crew10
New member
Got all 4 done. Had to cut off one of the rears. Just got it aligned as best as possible but UCAs are needed to get it where it needs to be.
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/BtdFJmm/20200605-172335.jpg" alt="20200605-172335" border="0">
Also finished the valve covers last night.
Question from this pic how good or bad does it look?
253k miles
Lots of maintenance done. Runs great. First time opening it up myself .
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/fNcC0JY/18961.jpg" alt="18961" border="0">
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/BtdFJmm/20200605-172335.jpg" alt="20200605-172335" border="0">
Also finished the valve covers last night.
Question from this pic how good or bad does it look?
253k miles
Lots of maintenance done. Runs great. First time opening it up myself .
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/fNcC0JY/18961.jpg" alt="18961" border="0">
U live in an area that has limited to no rust 4runners and ur listing ones from places that have will be rust buckets... NJ... repairing basic ware parts (u will end up replacing major components and it adds hrs 2 a repair) will negate any savings u think u getting by buying a "cheap" runner with "lower" miles (the diff between 180k and 225k all depends on the owner. Ive had 2 replace 160k 3.4L (not from a 96 which do have know HG issues) and Ive swapped 240k+ engines on that have a ton of life left. There r numerous test that can b preformed on and engine to help u c the condition. u cant compare the listed units as apples to apples with whats around u. If u'd like i can walk u through some of what u need to look for on a 3rd gen, i'm not super far from u (south/west), u can swing by and ill give u a run down.
- Status
