The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[darmstrong]

96’ runner Coolant issues

Just got a 96’ 4Runner and the radiator is leaking, it’s got Toyota red coolant so I’m not sure if it’s the pink milkshake problem. Got new radiator coming. Going to replace it and upper and lower hoses. If it is the pink milkshake of death what do yall suggest I do? Not sure if the tranny has been flushed during its 240k mile lifespan. I’ve got pictures if any one yall are experts on the milkshake problem. Thanks in advance!

 

[JoeT4R]

Just got a 96’ 4Runner and the radiator is leaking, it’s got Toyota red coolant so I’m not sure if it’s the pink milkshake problem. Got new radiator coming. Going to replace it and upper and lower hoses. If it is the pink milkshake of death what do yall suggest I do? Not sure if the tranny has been flushed during its 240k mile lifespan. I’ve got pictures if any one yall are experts on the milkshake problem. Thanks in advance!

A new radiator with Toyota red, plus new hoses/clamps should serve you well coupled with a transmission drain and fill. Drain the trans fluid, observe the color and generally speaking you should be able to determine if coolant is mixing with it.

As an added precaution, you could always add an external transmission cooler, like many others have, myself included, and bypass the radiator to help further prevent the forbidden milkshake.

 

[darmstrong]

A new radiator with Toyota red, plus new hoses/clamps should serve you well coupled with a transmission drain and fill. Drain the trans fluid, observe the color and generally speaking you should be able to determine if coolant is mixing with it.

As an added precaution, you could always add an external transmission cooler, like many others have, myself included, and bypass the radiator to help further prevent the forbidden milkshake.

-any suggestions on the external trans cooler? Also you think it will. be alright draining the trans fluid if it hasn’t been changed in 240k?

 

[phattyduck]

-any suggestions on the external trans cooler? Also you think it will. be alright draining the trans fluid if it hasn’t been changed in 240k?

A single drain and fill (well, drop the pan to check - nearly the same thing) will not cause any harm that hasn't already been done.

-Charlie

 

[yuckscott]

Does anyone know if I will lose my DRL functionality if I upgrade to a negative-switched relay harness? I can't find any headlight relay harnesses that advertise as being positive switched or otherwise compatible with DRL. I feel like there must be other Canadians who have gone through this, just looking to eliminate the voltage loss at my halogen OEM style headlights.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Does anyone know if I will lose my DRL functionality if I upgrade to a negative-switched relay harness? I can't find any headlight relay harnesses that advertise as being positive switched or otherwise compatible with DRL. I feel like there must be other Canadians who have gone through this, just looking to eliminate the voltage loss at my halogen OEM style headlights.

I don't have an answer but when I was searching the forum to see how to easily disable the DRL on my US rig, there were a lot of Canadian forum users discussing DRL issues. "Have you searched to forum using the Google bar and scrolled down to the forum-specific results?" - sorry, but it might help.

 

[phattyduck]

Does anyone know if I will lose my DRL functionality if I upgrade to a negative-switched relay harness? I can't find any headlight relay harnesses that advertise as being positive switched or otherwise compatible with DRL. I feel like there must be other Canadians who have gone through this, just looking to eliminate the voltage loss at my halogen OEM style headlights.

Many manufacturers use positive switched headlights - but not most Toyotas (or Subarus, for that matter). The DRL signal will probably turn on the headlights full for whatever filament it uses if you have an aftermarket harness in there. You can be clever and use the DRL signal to trigger some sort of separate DRL setup (weak light bar or similar) or just run it as-is. It is not a modern PWM-style setup that can really mess with relays, so you are safe there.

-Charlie

 

[JoeT4R]

-any suggestions on the external trans cooler? Also you think it will. be alright draining the trans fluid if it hasn’t been changed in 240k?

I trust what Charlie mentioned. As far as a trans cooler, I like B&M products although they are getting harder and harder to find. I bought mine for my 4Runner in 2016, and just bought one for my other ride, a Honda, but I had to buy it from someone privately. It was a discontinued cooler. I’ve heard Hayden is a big name and also TruCool, although I don’t have any firsthand experience with either of those brands.

 

[3bears]

If you dont have pink milkshake then your good. replace radiator, hoses, flush sustem, toyota red coolant and a drain and fill on tranny , or a mbtm style flush. Just be careful with drain bolt, they can strip easy, get a new crush washer

 

[Endlessblockades]

-any suggestions on the external trans cooler? Also you think it will. be alright draining the trans fluid if it hasn’t been changed in 240k?

I have been running a Tru-Cool I got from Oregon Performance Transmission about 3 years ago. They carry Hayden, Derale, and Tru-Cool.

Transmission Coolers: Oregon Performance Transmission

 

[toverturf]

I've been wanting to upgrade my smaller B&M trans cooler to the Tru-Cool LPD4589 but it's impossible to find right now.

 

[ryedog]

AC question

Hi all, I’ve been lurking for a while and used lots of threads here to help me diagnose and work on my truck.

Recently I have been working on a 97 SR5 that I picked up last November. The AC hasn’t worked since I bought it and now that it is getting hot I am working on repairing it. Last week I did an inspection of my components since I couldn’t get the compressor to engage and I noticed my liquid return line that runs from the drier to evaporator through the bumper is completely cut through. I know the vehicle was in a minor front end collision and I got it safety inspected, anyway I am presuming the broken line is the cause and the system lost all if not most the refrigerant when it happened. Moving forward I bought a new hose and a new drier and am curious if it is stupid to just replace those parts, run the system under a vacuum overnight and check to see if it leaks after, then getting it filled. I live in Utah and that’s where this truck has been located too so the air is usually very dry. I understand it’s almost 30 years old too and it runs great and would like to keep it for as long as possible. Would it behoove me to just bite the bullet and replace everything else or just see what happens with the drier and new hose?

Anyway, that was long winded! I look forward to any insights and feedback!

 

[phattyduck]

Moving forward I bought a new hose and a new drier and am curious if it is stupid to just replace those parts, run the system under a vacuum overnight and check to see if it leaks after, then getting it filled.

Unless you think a ton of grit got in there, a new hose, drier, a bit of oil and a vacuum before refilling should be all you need. The compressor won't engage if there is 0 pressure in the system.

-Charlie

 

[ryedog]

Unless you think a ton of grit got in there, a new hose, drier, a bit of oil and a vacuum before refilling should be all you need. The compressor won't engage if there is 0 pressure in the system.

Great, just got the parts delivered today! Going to grab a pump and a set of gauges and see if it holds a vacuum over night. Thanks!

 

[dell30rb]

I am interested in buying a 3rd Gen 4 Runner as a wheeling rig. I'm mechanically inclined and had jeeps in the past.

I need something a little bit bigger than a jeep and i've already been down that road so interested in something new. I have two young kids and would like to be able to carry stuff for us to all go hit some trails and go camping.

I want to have a build roughly planned out before I buy anything. About a 3" lift, clear 33" tires, bumpers, some skid plates, rocker guards. Locker in the rear.

What parts you buying? What locker? Any durability issues with the stock steering and drivetrain with 33"s that needs to be addressed, or stock axles etc... gonna work fine?

 

[ryedog]

Unless you think a ton of grit got in there, a new hose, drier, a bit of oil and a vacuum before refilling should be all you need. The compressor won't engage if there is 0 pressure in the system.

-Charlie

Great news, replaced the line and drier on Saturday, rented a pump and set of manifold gauges and pulled a vacuum. System held a vacuum, so I went ahead and let it keep pulling a vacuum to remove any other moisture like I had seen others recommend. Filled it up to speck with Freon and some UV dye and PAG oil and my AC is back. Has been working for 48 hours now without a noticeable dip in coldness. Thanks for the help, now I just hope it lasts over a month!

 

[3bears]

dormann drain plug

so in a little pickle. need the front diff drain plug, dealer does not have, 10 days
nut Napa has a dormann drain plug available tomorrow. Anyproblems with a dorrman drain plug in our diffs

 

[Riceye]

No, should not be a problem if it is M18 x 1.50 thread. Having a magnet is preferred, but not necessary. If it has a hex head rather then the factory allen-type head, I see that as a bonus. Make sure you get a sealing washer.

Edit - I see two Dorman plugs that will fit.
65264
090-114

 

[GavSand]

4WD Not Always Working

Hello! I've been digging around this forum and some others to try and find info on my issue, but nothing I've found so far is similar to what I'm dealing with.

Whenever I try and shift into 4Hi I have a 50/50 chance of it deciding to work flawlessly, or to not even engage. When it doesn't engage the dash light just keeps flashing and I feel a sort of "engine braking" type resistance coming from the car (If that makes sense). Then when I try to shift out of 4Hi I feel a massive thud shake the car and then everything is normal again.

I don't think its a mechanical issue since it can actually work, so it could be a bad vacuum line or electrical wire, but I'd like some other peoples thoughts on this. I haven't inspected anything yet, but I plan on doing that when I have free time.

Something interesting too is that 4Lo experiences a similar problem as well, but I still get the lower gearing, so I think the problem is isolated to what controls the engagement of the front wheels.

Any help would be appreciated!

BTW I have a 2002 Sr5 Auto Tranny with "multi-mode" 4WD.

 

[3bears]

No, should not be a problem if it is M18 x 1.50 thread. Having a magnet is preferred, but not necessary. If it has a hex head rather then the factory allen-type head, I see that as a bonus. Make sure you get a sealing washer.

Edit - I see two Dorman plugs that will fit.
65264
090-114

so ended up putting the chiseled drain back in until I could wait and give it a few days off since I have a tundra I can drive.

i actually found a lexus dealer that could ship to me and be cost effective, for lexus parts with shipping for nearly what my local napa wanted for dorman

I went with the lexus so I could have a "bolt" head instead of our recessed hex

fill 9034118060
drain 9034124016

uses same washers as stock

no more stripping drain and fills on the front diff for me