The LFD Off Road Thread

[Fal-man]

Front Skid Q's

A few questions about your Front Skid for the 5th gen. Hard to tell from the pics but it appears the Wide variant gives more coverage of the control arm bolts, similar to how the KDSS version does?

It also sounds like a diff drop will work (without spacers?)

Finally, will it work with sway bar drop spacers such as Dobinson's and others that bring the bar down and forward slightly to correct the angle and to clear larger 2.5 coilovers? With some skids the sway bar will hit the angled front part if they are lowered. IF so will the KDSS model work for this with regular sway bars?

 

[Finslayer83]

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

My question, too ... will the backorders be filled? I see LFD OR has 15% off for November, I've been thinking about getting the LFD cross bars for some time.

Should I get 2 or 3? And is the wind fairing for the TE 10-13 available? I did not find it with a quick search... do I need it? for running without anything on the cross bars, day-to-day. Seems like I do, so that would be 3 cross bars with a wind fairing on the front one.

I have a Yakima Mega Warrior basket to mount, sometimes. Should be OK?

Lots of questions, but I'm such a cheapskate before I pull the trigger.

[MENTION=130790]curmudge1[/MENTION] sorry for the delay, I don't check T4R as often as I used to.

Backorders for crossbars are usually at most four weeks. We only mark something as in stock if we actually have it on the shelf.

There is a wind fairing option for those crossbars. We recommend it for most applications.

While a lot of the boxes do work (and the post above with the insulation inside the crossbar does work to help keep noise down without a fairing crossbar when running boxes) the reality is our crossbars really weren't designed for the yakima/thule type boxes. Some of them do work well with them, some don't. Unfortunately there's a bunch of boxes out there and we can't confirm fitment for each one.

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

A few questions about your Front Skid for the 5th gen. Hard to tell from the pics but it appears the Wide variant gives more coverage of the control arm bolts, similar to how the KDSS version does?

It also sounds like a diff drop will work (without spacers?)

Finally, will it work with sway bar drop spacers such as Dobinson's and others that bring the bar down and forward slightly to correct the angle and to clear larger 2.5 coilovers? With some skids the sway bar will hit the angled front part if they are lowered. IF so will the KDSS model work for this with regular sway bars?

[MENTION=718261]Fal-man[/MENTION] yes, the wide skid does cover the front control arm bolts more from a direct hit.

Typically with suspensions we've run on our own vehicles, sway bar relocations come with spacers that also drop the radiator support brackets. When those radiator support brackets that the skid bolts to get spaced down that's usually enough clearance for the sway bar.

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

Does anyone know the weight of the 3/4 stainless steel roof rack? I can't find it listed anywhere

[MENTION=702283]weezol[/MENTION] sorry for the late reply. Its about 60 pounds.

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

Just finished a 2000+ mile road trip though Michigan's UP. Yakima Skybox 16 and Napa awning on two crossbars, no fairing. Zero wind noise!

As mentioned, the Skybox clamps won't work with either fairing, and the box tunnels more air underneath to make unbearable wind noise at any speed. I had some leftover foam pipe insulation, stuffed it in the front crossbar channel to fill the gap and BOOM!, totally silent! Used some zip ties to keep it in place while I mounted the Skybox.

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That does usually work! The aero pads for crossbars can also work, but your solution is a bit less expensive

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

After a year of running the integrated fairing and a couple bars I went to mount my Skybox. Some trial and error later I realized the integrated fairing bar would have to come off for the box to clear the hatch on stock rails. Well, needless to say I'm pretty disappointed in what I found under the fairing strip. I should have checked that it was resting on the paint after reading this thread a while back but it slipped my mind. I guess use me as another data point, but do not install the weather stripping with the integrated fairing bar, it will destroy your clear coat.

[MENTION=508641]KeydeT4R[/MENTION] I'm sorry for the late reply and your disappointment, we have not been checking T4R as often as we have in the past. Pretty much most roof racks I'm familiar with include some sort of similar strip for these purposes, and they can over time leave marks on the roof. My 4Runner had a Gobi rack on it when I bought it used, and its got big marks from that as well. A friend has a Prinsu doing the same under that fairing's strip. Ultimately when you're using a roof rack with a vehicle you're going to end up with roof wear at some point, whether from the rack or from loading items on it.

damn that sucks. honestly LFD should stop including that weather stripping. I didn't install mine and I have about 1/4" clearance between the highest point of the roof and faring. that faring rubs on almost everyone's vehicle that installs it. you can try and install some clear bra or PPF if you really want to use the weather stripping but you're only buying time. vibration ruins everything especially when little bits of sand get stuck between the PPF and weather stripping, acts like sandpaper. I love my LFD rails and want to get a 3/4 rack. they make great products but this stripping needs to go

Best way to prevent rubbing (damage) is to skip the ironically named protective strip. There is only a small gap between the fairing and the roof without it. Myself and others have not noticed any wind noise without it.


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let me save you some time - just remove it. you don't need it and you'll never have to worry

Awesome thanks guys! I’m just worried there isn’t a big enough gap and the faring could bounce against the roof. The bars are pretty damn rigid so I bet that wouldn’t happen. I’ll give it a go and if that ends up happening I’m sure I’ll know pretty quick haha.

I opted for the LFD crossbar set on my new '22 after having a rhino rack pioneer platform on the '21 I totaled. Love them so far.
I initially installed the protective strip along the wind fairing but I also noticed what looked to be a bit of grit build up after the first couple of weeks. There was probably 1/16th to 1/8" of clearance between the stripping and the roof. I have since removed the stripping and there is a full 1/4" of clearance now and no signs of additional grit build up. It also seems as if removing the stripping seemed to reduce the wind noise even slightly more... (not that it was significant in the first place).

do you have the integrated faring? that won't bounce against the roof it's solid. maybe if you punched the roof from inside the vehicle upwards you could push it into the faring lol. I've ripped down gravel/uneven/potholed service roads and over many many bumps at speed, never had any sort of flex or contact with the roof

[MENTION=654389]Humble Leader[/MENTION] [MENTION=62460]johnnygraphic[/MENTION] [MENTION=637296]Knuckl3dragg3r[/MENTION] [MENTION=714492]taylortaylor[/MENTION] Yes, you guys are correct, typically there is enough gap that the rubber isn't needed at all. There is enough variation though between these vehicles' roof stampings over the 13 years of manufacturing that some do sit closer than others. Sometimes the setup is quieter with the rubber, sometimes it is quieter without. That gap ideally should be around 1/8 to 1/4", and that should be enough that the crossbar doesn't touch. I've run the setup both with and without the strip, and it makes subtle differences depending on the cargo and setup. I will revise the instructions to note the rubber strip is optional though.

 

[BimmerChop]

Pic Request... anyone with a combo of narrow and wide bars on stock rails, can you please post pics of your setup?

 

[TRD PANTHER]

Pic Request... anyone with a combo of narrow and wide bars on stock rails, can you please post pics of your setup?

Here is a couple pics from LFD’s website. I just went with four wide bars on BF 2 years ago.

 

[Snakehn]

Paint film protection

What type of film protection are you using? Does it come precut? I just installed my LFD bars and wind fairing 3 days ago, I left the rubber strip out as there was enough gap to prevent touch and debris accumulation but now the wind fairing makes a very slight contact with one side of the ridges of the roof causing to rub against the paint. I’m thinking about just using 3 bars for now as I’ll be mounting a couple of ROAM cases.

 

[LFD_Off_Road]

What type of film protection are you using? Does it come precut? I just installed my LFD bars and wind fairing 3 days ago, I left the rubber strip out as there was enough gap to prevent touch and debris accumulation but now the wind fairing makes a very slight contact with one side of the ridges of the roof causing to rub against the paint. I’m thinking about just using 3 bars for now as I’ll be mounting a couple of ROAM cases.

Can you try to loosen the bolts on that crossbar and move it higher a little? There should be enough play in the bolt slots to get a little more clearance.

3M protective film strips on amazon, just need to cut it to length.

 

[johnnygraphic]

@LFD-What size hardware to mount items to your roof rack? I’m shopping for carriage bolts and want to know before playing the guessing game at Home Depot.

Thanks in advance!


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[BimmerChop]

Here is a couple pics from LFD’s website. I just went with four wide bars on BF 2 years ago.

I had spotted those on LFDs website, but thank you all the same, appreciate the help :thumb:

Those 4 wide do look nice!

Anyone else have any shots of the narrow/wide mix?

 

[jmcelroy]

@LFD-What size hardware to mount items to your roof rack? I’m shopping for carriage bolts and want to know before playing the guessing game at Home Depot.

I use 3/8-16 (NC) carriage bolts. The square boss near the head engages the crossbar slots nicely to prevent rotation while tightening the nuts.

Someone earlier in the thread asked about a Megawarrior basket. I mount my basket to the LFD bars regularly. I removed the plastic clamps that came with the basket in favor of installing some aluminum mounting feet (about $25 for a set on Amazon) that allow quick connect/disconnect directly to the crossbars using carriage bolts. 5min on and off.

Oh, use stainless fasteners for a touch of class ;-0

Jason

Mounting feet:

Mounting feet installed on basket:

 

[johnnygraphic]

I use 3/8-18 (NC) carriage bolts. The square boss near the head engages the crossbar slots nicely to prevent rotation while tightening the nuts.

Someone earlier in the thread asked about a Megawarrior basket. I mount my basket to the LFD bars regularly. I removed the plastic clamps that came with the basket in favor of installing some aluminum mounting feet (about $25 for a set on Amazon) that allow quick connect/disconnect directly to the crossbars using carriage bolts. 5min on and off.

Oh, use stainless fasteners for a touch of class ;-0

Jason

Mounting feet:

Mounting feet installed on basket:

Thanks for the info! Off to HD! [emoji106]

ETA: And the pics too!


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[LFD_Off_Road]

@LFD-What size hardware to mount items to your roof rack? I’m shopping for carriage bolts and want to know before playing the guessing game at Home Depot.

Thanks in advance!


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Pretty sure you already went from the later post, but M8 or 3/8 work well.

 

[johnnygraphic]

Pretty sure you already went from the later post, but M8 or 3/8 work well.

Thank you! I initially looked for M8 hardware, but couldn’t find any. I just got back with 3/8”. The square part of the carriage bolt does seem to sit just a bit proud of the rack though. I also have washers, but haven’t tried fitting them yet.

Thank you for responding here! Appreciate it.


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[Snakehn]

Can you try to loosen the bolts on that crossbar and move it higher a little? There should be enough play in the bolt slots to get a little more clearance.

3M protective film strips on amazon, just need to cut it to length.

I will try that next, thank you.

 

[johnnygraphic]

Thank you! I initially looked for M8 hardware, but couldn’t find any. I just got back with 3/8”. The square part of the carriage bolt does seem to sit just a bit proud of the rack though. I also have washers, but haven’t tried fitting them yet.

Thank you for responding here! Appreciate it.


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Just confirming the above. Carriage bolts don’t work. The square part sits too high above the rack. It’ll rattle like crazy. I couldn’t find 3/8 x 18, only 3/8 x 16 course threaded. Had to go back and get regular bolts with lock washers.


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[jmcelroy]

Mine have been working fine. I use the cross bars for a top box, bike racks, and a Yakima basket and swap out regularly.

Could be a difference in carriage bolts. Sounds like you have something perfectly flush the with cross bar that that is not sitting flat due the the square boss protruding. If I had that problem I'd look at fixing it like this:

1) Use different carriage bolts that have a shallower square section. This might be a PITA. I don't know what standards exist for them (I'm an engine builder, not a chassis guy . . . this is the only time I've really used carriage bolts in an automotive application)

2) Knock the corners off the carriage bolts a bit on the bench grinder. Not all of it, just the part that protrudes.

3) Use a washer with an I.D. large enough to fit over the square section so the square boss no longer sits proud of the cross bar

4) Grind/drill a relief in whatever you're mounting so the square protrusion doesn't not prevent it sitting flat on the bar

Jason

p.s. - I realized the thread spec I originally wrote was wrong and corrected a few days ago. TBH, the thread form doesn't matter, just the diameter. (SAE, Metric, USS, Whitworth, Acme, etc . . . it doesn't matter)