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The Mid Travel Thread
- Thread starter MojaveMadMan
- Start date
shootmymime
New member
After some phosphoric acid it's looking good.
How much front wheel travel are you guys getting with these setups? I'm getting 7.75" with my tundra bilstein 5100's and stock UCA's. 2" of downtravel and about 5.75" of up travel from static ride height. More downtravel would be nice but I feel like the cv's would be at such an extreme angle
JBurt
Senior Member
What are you using to neutralize the acid, or is it not even a worry?
shootmymime
New member
after sitting all night ill hose it down in the morning. then ill spray it with some type of oil to help protect it from rusting again.
A.Wilson013
New member
Front:
Icon 2.5" Extended Travel C/O 700lb 14" Springs
Light Racing/SPC UCA's
Wheelers Superbumps
No sway bar
Rear:
Icon 2.5" Extended Travel Piggyback Shocks (Mount relocated outside of frame)
OME 861
Stock swaybar w/ Energy Suspension extended links
Icon 2.5" Extended Travel C/O 700lb 14" Springs
Light Racing/SPC UCA's
Wheelers Superbumps
No sway bar
Rear:
Icon 2.5" Extended Travel Piggyback Shocks (Mount relocated outside of frame)
OME 861
Stock swaybar w/ Energy Suspension extended links
D Farms
New member
front:
tundra bilstein 5100 yyyb with 1/4" top plate.
custom shock hoop and second shock, i think its gas adjust? i dunno came off the rear axle when i did the lift.
no sway bar
rear:
lx coils and lc shocks.
sway with front links.
with the way the geometry it is the send shock damps progressively as the arm swings up, which is what you want since it will lessen bottoming out.
tundra bilstein 5100 yyyb with 1/4" top plate.
custom shock hoop and second shock, i think its gas adjust? i dunno came off the rear axle when i did the lift.
no sway bar
rear:
lx coils and lc shocks.
sway with front links.
with the way the geometry it is the send shock damps progressively as the arm swings up, which is what you want since it will lessen bottoming out.
Attachments
shootmymime
New member
Come on guys, all of this talk about mid travel but no one can give me any travel numbers?
It's pretty easy to measure: Just jack the truck up until the front suspension is at max droop, measure the hub to fender.
Then remove the coil over, reinstall the wheel/tire and jack the LCA up until hitting the bump stop, measure the hub to fender. Subtract the difference.
This is assuming that you're hitting the bump stop before bottoming out the shock of course (which I hope you aren't).
It's pretty easy to measure: Just jack the truck up until the front suspension is at max droop, measure the hub to fender.
Then remove the coil over, reinstall the wheel/tire and jack the LCA up until hitting the bump stop, measure the hub to fender. Subtract the difference.
This is assuming that you're hitting the bump stop before bottoming out the shock of course (which I hope you aren't).
Last edited:
snivilous
Senior Member
Can people post valving specs too? Imo that's one of, if not the most important, aspect in a good suspension (obviously other stuff matters too). Would help people decide what valving to run.
On a separate note, what I had planned to try this summer (though may end up falling through) is running a mid travel setup with a goal of 10+ inches of travel. If you cut off the stock bump stop areas of the frame, and then modify the shock hoop to sit higher and run a longer shock and new bump stops I don't see why you couldn't run large travel numbers at stock width. With stock geometry the CVs barely enter the top half of their travel capability (eg. the CV angle is essentially flat at full bump). Anyone try this or have thoughts? It would be a fairly easy modification and cheap, minus needing longer coilovers to control the increased up travel.
On a separate note, what I had planned to try this summer (though may end up falling through) is running a mid travel setup with a goal of 10+ inches of travel. If you cut off the stock bump stop areas of the frame, and then modify the shock hoop to sit higher and run a longer shock and new bump stops I don't see why you couldn't run large travel numbers at stock width. With stock geometry the CVs barely enter the top half of their travel capability (eg. the CV angle is essentially flat at full bump). Anyone try this or have thoughts? It would be a fairly easy modification and cheap, minus needing longer coilovers to control the increased up travel.
MojaveMadMan
New member
Haha well most of us aren't stock anymore to find out...
snivilous
Senior Member
I wouldn't call it mid travel but I was running the Tundra 5100s with Eibachs and no sway bar and pulling about 8" of travel which was limited by the bump stops and my UCA hitting the coilover. Stock is around 6-7".
MojaveMadMan
New member
Not a bad idea but a ton of work! There is a lot to take care of if you were to do this and I know a lot of people like the bolt on flavor of mid travel. A lot of guys do this on Bronco's, which I know is apples and oranges. But they will replace coil buckets to allow for longer coils and do all kinds of changes a long those lines.
Honestly though, if I was going to do this I would just cut the whole thing off. Then I would make new UCA mounts that reflect to factory position. This would actually be kind of easy, make the outer mounts, cut the coil bucket out, then make the inner mounts. Then I would use tubing to make a shock hoop/mount for an 8" coilover. You could probably leave the stock bump stop mounts on the frame, just remove the rubber/poly pads, then re-locate them or make custom hydro bump mounts. I have always considered removing the stock bump mounts, cutting a pie shape in the frame where the stock bumps were and frenching in a hydro bump can... Then adding some material to the LCA and a bump pad for it to contact. 2" travel hydro bump would fit perfect! Plus IMO on these rigs, especially in a mid travel application a hydro bump would almost be better than a bypass. You are getting the same benefit of a stiffer compression zone in the final inches of wheel travel, but at an extremely lower cost! a 6" travel 2 tube bypass that others run isn't going to give you a lot more than that due to the small amount of wheel travel. Though the additional dampening of a 2nd shock isn't something to count out either...
TCMach
New member
I can look at getting some numbers this weekend. I'm curious.
I like the idea, the only issue I see clearance during uptravel. I know I've already had to take an inch off my fenders to handle the travel I have now. Might have to run glass or heavily chopped fenders. Would definitely be interesting to notch that part of the frame out and stick a hydro bump in there like [MENTION=93512]MojaveMadMan[/MENTION] said.
If you were to keep the UCAs mounted how they are how would you extend the coil bucket? Wonder if we could just use these solo motorsports mounts? This pic is off a 2nd gen taco but they make them for the 1st gen. Replaces the bucket with this hoop, tabbed for a coilover and bypass.
Attachments
snivilous
Senior Member
Yea I was thinking SUPER simple. Extend the shock bucket and frame notch, stock mounts on everything, longer shock and a hydro.
JWaldz
Moderator
Has anyone thought about using BAMF's ORI adapter kit and running 8" or 10" ORI's up front?
Tacoma IFS ORI Strut Kit
Tacoma IFS ORI Strut Kit
MojaveMadMan
New member
I may be wrong but that looks like a 2nd Gen Tacoma/4th Gen 4runner front. Not saying you couldn't do it with ours too.
I have seen a few applications where people put in a short body 8" travel coilover or even a 6" travel coilover and were able to get a small advantage with wheel travel. I mean the only thing that is different between these shocks and OEM replacement shocks is they add in the limits for your rig out of the box. But you have to remember that these companies also build in limits that are probably a little less than the full potential of our suspension because they don't want Joe Blow complaining that their CV's are having problems and other issues. So you can take a shock like an ORI or whatever and make it fit.
I actually tried years ago to make an 8" travel Fox work but it was too long and I would have lost wheel travel... But from what I have read 6" travel shocks work well. ORI's are a little different, their lengths are much different than other options out there. When I was building custom sand cars we would occasionally use an air shock in combination with a coilover to help take some of the load that comes with V8's and stuff like that. We got very good results in high speed applications.
For those that don't understand how an air shock works. For every inch of movement the valving gets stiffer. They work off of pressure so when the wheel goes up the valving gets stiffer and stiffer. This is great for rock crawling because you can have it very soft, but then it protects against hard hits when the shock is in it's final inches of wheel travel. For high speed or wash board stuff though it is not as ideal by itself because the valving is very light near ride height. So when you are on the road your vehicle will do a lot of swaying and moving around... And when you are on a wash board you may not have the ideal valving at the current height that you may have wanted...
That is why I like hydro bumps. They are effectively the same thing as an air shock, just only active when in contact with a contact surface. On a 2" travel bump stop the valving doubles after 1" of compression so it can very effectively take away hard stuff with minimal movement.
I have seen a few applications where people put in a short body 8" travel coilover or even a 6" travel coilover and were able to get a small advantage with wheel travel. I mean the only thing that is different between these shocks and OEM replacement shocks is they add in the limits for your rig out of the box. But you have to remember that these companies also build in limits that are probably a little less than the full potential of our suspension because they don't want Joe Blow complaining that their CV's are having problems and other issues. So you can take a shock like an ORI or whatever and make it fit.
I actually tried years ago to make an 8" travel Fox work but it was too long and I would have lost wheel travel... But from what I have read 6" travel shocks work well. ORI's are a little different, their lengths are much different than other options out there. When I was building custom sand cars we would occasionally use an air shock in combination with a coilover to help take some of the load that comes with V8's and stuff like that. We got very good results in high speed applications.
For those that don't understand how an air shock works. For every inch of movement the valving gets stiffer. They work off of pressure so when the wheel goes up the valving gets stiffer and stiffer. This is great for rock crawling because you can have it very soft, but then it protects against hard hits when the shock is in it's final inches of wheel travel. For high speed or wash board stuff though it is not as ideal by itself because the valving is very light near ride height. So when you are on the road your vehicle will do a lot of swaying and moving around... And when you are on a wash board you may not have the ideal valving at the current height that you may have wanted...
That is why I like hydro bumps. They are effectively the same thing as an air shock, just only active when in contact with a contact surface. On a 2" travel bump stop the valving doubles after 1" of compression so it can very effectively take away hard stuff with minimal movement.
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