The milkshake syndrome
- Thread starter josh3rd
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phattyduck
Elite Member
pink milkshake = red trans fluid + toyota red coolant
chocolate milkshake = old trans fluid + normal green coolant
Both are bad...
-Charlie
chocolate milkshake = old trans fluid + normal green coolant
Both are bad...
-Charlie
how do i upload pics?
prob what it is
HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
nothing wrong with using green coolant. before the advent of the red/pink coolant, Toyota was using green coolant.
it's just that the red/pink coolant has a longer life than the green coolant so you don't need to change coolant as often.
it's just that the red/pink coolant has a longer life than the green coolant so you don't need to change coolant as often.
You can attach them in a message. Look for the paperclip.
HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
yes, there are chemical differences (i forgot what) and it becomes acidic when it goes beyond the recommended change period of 5 years.
but as i understand it, the main intent was to use a coolant that lasts longer.
Also, to the OP, don't mix red and green coolants. that's very bad. flush the cooling system, including the heaters, before changing coolant
but as i understand it, the main intent was to use a coolant that lasts longer.
Also, to the OP, don't mix red and green coolants. that's very bad. flush the cooling system, including the heaters, before changing coolant
Truly appreciated feedback fellas. I seen somewhere in the replies someone had asked "where" was this noticed at. Well when I checked the coolant res and noticing that it was empty, I looked at the rubber tube that goes inside the container of the res and seen the bottom opening of the thin tubing and it looked like a chocolate shake than a strawberry.
Then checked the trans stick and it showed regular tran fluid. Clear and red tinted like it was just newly poured.
The next day after the tow checked the trans level and clarity and boom, milk shake.
Everyone yesterday I had put a total of 28qts of ATF to cleanse the trans and it looks like a dart, dingy pink or light red. But no clarity at all. So how many quarts did those who had the milkshake issues before it became clear? Thanks in advance
Then checked the trans stick and it showed regular tran fluid. Clear and red tinted like it was just newly poured.
The next day after the tow checked the trans level and clarity and boom, milk shake.
Everyone yesterday I had put a total of 28qts of ATF to cleanse the trans and it looks like a dart, dingy pink or light red. But no clarity at all. So how many quarts did those who had the milkshake issues before it became clear? Thanks in advance
HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
did you replace the radiator before flushing the transmission? the milkshake occurs because the stock atf cooler in the radiator has rusted through, thereby allowing coolant to mix with the atf.so if you didn't replace the radiator, or bypass the stock atf cooler with an external atf cooler, then milkshake will happen again.
I disconnected the 2 lines that go to and from the transmission to the radiator and emptied the trans via transmission bolt plug. Measured the amount. Reinserted bolt, replaced amount from pan with new atf. From that point, I started the car and took the hose that was releasing atf and inserted it into jug marked in 2qt measurements. Expelled 2qts and replaced with 2 fresh qts. I did that 14 times for a total of 28qts. Rad hasn't been connected at all to trans during any of these times. I am curious as to what to do with the line that doesn't spew anything. It is the line on the left side of the radiator if you were driving the truck for orientation purpose
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HiluxSurf SSR-G
Senior Member
one line goes from the tranny to the stock atf cooler in the radiator bottom tank. the other line is the return line, this is the line that goes back to the rear of the transmission
Do NOT drive your truck without an atf cooler as that will cause the atf to overheat and damage the transmission. You MUST replace the current rad with a new one because the stock atf cooler in the current rad is already corroded and will allow coolant to mix with the atf again.
get a new radiator with an internal atf cooler or get an external cooler with a capacity of around 18,000 BTU
Do NOT drive your truck without an atf cooler as that will cause the atf to overheat and damage the transmission. You MUST replace the current rad with a new one because the stock atf cooler in the current rad is already corroded and will allow coolant to mix with the atf again.
get a new radiator with an internal atf cooler or get an external cooler with a capacity of around 18,000 BTU
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The 2 lines must be joined together if you want to temporarily use the vehicle.
Thanks for the advice brothers. But be rest assured I have no plans on driving it until everything that needs to be handled handled. The old lady has a radiator on order for me a trans filter and gasket and what else I got some Dr tranny. She got me some pan bolts drain bolt plugs I guess they're called. And a new radiator cap. Here I feel like an idiot because I thought that if you buy a radiator that it comes with a cap. Silly me, LOL. I should have got a thermostat as well but as you probably already know money's tight. So yesterday I took the old radiator out and it was really hard because of the two bottom bolts that hold it to the radiator frame or whatever it's called. They screw into a square nut that's housed by plastic that makes sense. And where the return line goes into the radiator. Before I started to work on everything I wanted to disconnect the trans lines from the radiator and I pulled the hose the return line who's and the whole thing that goes inside the radiator the fitting or whatever it's called came out the hose even come off the fitting but the whole fitting that attaches to the radiator came out with it and it was all rusted and corroded looking. If any of this doesn't look or sound right while you're reading it please blame Google because I am using Google speech to text
