The most likely culprit in a 4-cylinder manual 2wd Toyota 4Runner leaking motor oil?

[mom]

Q: Do you know if it's the (10) or the (11) part number for the oil filter bracket gasket?

There seems to be two different part numbers for the oil filter bracket gasket:
P/N: 1569275011, 1569275010, GASKET,OIL FILTER GASKET,OIL FILTER BRACKET

This is the part number for the oil filter bracket o-ring:
P/N: 9672124018, RING, O

The oil pan seems to use something called 3M "FIPG" (Formed In Plage Gasket) black silicone.[I'll stop by an auto parts store to see if they carry it.]

Q: What size tube is needed to use this 3M FIPG on a Toyota oil pan?

Leafing through my paper FSM, I find nothing mentioned about the oil filter bracket removal & replacement procedure (there is only a diagram on page EM73). Likewise with the oil pan removal (there is only a replacement procedure on page EM55).

Likewise, the Chiltons doesn't mention the oil filter bracket anywhere, but it does mention the oil pan removal procedure on page 3-38 (Engine and engine overhaul):

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove the 16 mounting bolts and two nuts to the oil pan.
6. Remove the oil pan from the engine.
Be careful not to damage the oil pan flanges of the oil pan and cylinder block.
7. Before installing the oil pan, thoroughly clean the contact surfaces.
8. Apply sealant 08826-00080 or equivalent
Formed In-Place Gasket (FIPG) sealer to the oil pan. Parts should be assembled within 5 minutes of application, otherwise the sealer starts to skin over, looses it's effectiveness and must be removed and reapplied.
9. Install the oil pan and mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 9 ft. lbs (13 Nm).
10. Install the engine undercover.
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Fill the engine with oil.
13. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine, and check for leaks.

The Yotatech text-only DIY was different, so I reproduce it here:

- Remove the oil pan guard, 4x12mm bolts
- Drain the oil
- Remove the two brackets that attach the lower bellhousing to the engine, along with the metal shield over the bellhousing; 4 14mm bolts each
- Unbolt the oil pan and loosen it up; bunches of 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
- Unbolt the steering idler from the frame; pulling it forward gives the extra 1/2" or so clearance needed to pull the pan; 3 17mm nuts and bolts
- Pull the pan
- Pull the oil pickup; 2 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
- Pull the oil pan baffle; be careful not to bend this as you separate it from the block
- Clean all of the mating surfaces; a razor blade and wire brush worked well for me
- Degrease all of the mating surfaces; I first engine degreased the whole pan and baffle, then used carb cleaner on the mating surfaces to be sure they're extra clean
- Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the top mating surface of the baffle; install it
- Replace the oil pickup
- Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the mating surface of the oil pan; install it
- When bolting up the pan, don't over-torque the bolts!
- Replace bell housing shield and 2 brackets
- Re-mount steering idler
- Replace oil pan guard
- Fill it with oil

 

[Buckaroo]

fyi - standard practice in finding oil leaks. Clean it up using Gunk engine degreaser or equivalent - spray it down good, rinse it and let it dry. Make sure you start high on the engine because it all goes down hill. After cleaning, spray with white powder (i.e. Desenex foot powder or equivalent). Also good for curing you engine of athletes foot. Keep an eye on it. Seems like with the amount of oil you are leaking, it should show up fast.

Good Luck...

 

[mom]

spray with white powder

I had never heard of spraying with the white powder.

I was going to get the UV dye, if it isn't too expensive.

I think I'm looking at an oil filter bracket leak or an oil pan gasket leak, so it makes a difference which one it turns out to be.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[clint2070]

Oil filter extention gaskets

 

[mom]

I never did fix this, but the leak has been getting worse.

With experience, I've come to hate Buna Rubber on engine-heated o-rings.

Do you know if they make this part in Viton Rubber instead of Buna?

 

[Scramble]

I never did fix this, but the leak has been getting worse.

With experience, I've come to hate Buna Rubber on engine-heated o-rings.

Do you know if they make this part in Viton Rubber instead of Buna?

I just did this today. Obviously it's your oil filter housing. I dont know why you still haven't fixed it when you started this thread 5 years ago. You even have the part #'s listed. There's two bolts & one nut you need to take off. Change the 2 gaskets & put it back on. You can go straight in through the PS wheel well. Use a 6pt 12mm deep well socket for the bottom nut. I stripped mine with a 12pt socket with an extension. Pissed myself off for being stupid.