The Mushroom Factory
- Thread starter tranny Frank
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Rix
New member
Like this?
A solid axle truck with over 6 years on a knuckle rebuild?
With NO gear oil contamination?
Howabout this?
A picture of the ACTUAL factory grease, that looks NOTHING like the stuff you're trying to sell:
tranny Frank
Banned
The outside shot
No Rixxer the photo of the outside of the knuckle the ball with the build up off #1 grease on the edges of the sweep off the knuckle,
You see that is how I knew it was a #1 grade grease,,, #2 dont do that,
Knew it was #1 or thinner before you even posted the picts of what was inside,,
So the photo of the outside of the ball, Rixxer
Like this?
A solid axle truck with over 6 years on a knuckle rebuild?
With NO gear oil contamination?
Howabout this?
A picture of the ACTUAL factory grease, that looks NOTHING like the stuff you're trying to sell:
No Rixxer the photo of the outside of the knuckle the ball with the build up off #1 grease on the edges of the sweep off the knuckle,
You see that is how I knew it was a #1 grade grease,,, #2 dont do that,
Knew it was #1 or thinner before you even posted the picts of what was inside,,
So the photo of the outside of the ball, Rixxer
tranny Frank
Banned
Yep
Stuck in the Toyota knuckle grime,,
No Rixxer not that one the shot from the other side the wiper seal side,,,
I am with you as far as editing and making a step by step procedure for rebuilding the closed axle, and steering gear box,
Now this confusion is not isolated to the Jeep enthusiast, Toyota fans encounter this mess of GOO that Red described as being what production used, and the ideal lube,
But, since this is such a "Outdated" rare thing, it is identified as axle seal failure,
And no help that Toyota sales wrote in the FSM that #2 grease is what should be used,
No big deal there except the #2 lithium grease is incompatible with factory fill,
But yes, I am asking around in my area with collectors to find a lil ol Jeep to repair, and document using this factory form of grease,
I do have a 1 and 1 half Ton Chev 1941 to rebuild, I wonder if that will work ?
More pictures for you,,
Stuck in the Toyota knuckle grime,,
No Rixxer not that one the shot from the other side the wiper seal side,,,
I am with you as far as editing and making a step by step procedure for rebuilding the closed axle, and steering gear box,
Now this confusion is not isolated to the Jeep enthusiast, Toyota fans encounter this mess of GOO that Red described as being what production used, and the ideal lube,
But, since this is such a "Outdated" rare thing, it is identified as axle seal failure,
And no help that Toyota sales wrote in the FSM that #2 grease is what should be used,
No big deal there except the #2 lithium grease is incompatible with factory fill,
But yes, I am asking around in my area with collectors to find a lil ol Jeep to repair, and document using this factory form of grease,
I do have a 1 and 1 half Ton Chev 1941 to rebuild, I wonder if that will work ?
More pictures for you,,
tranny Frank
Banned
The Green **** grease,
I dont know what the hell that is and you dont either for that matter,,
Looks like a green ****,
When I Order a cv boot kit it comes with a #1 grade or thinner grease,,,
All the time,
HOWABOUT this picture, that shows a c.v. joint manufactorers' supplied grease, that proves your "all c.v. joints use a #1 or thinner grease" statement is a lie?
I dont know what the hell that is and you dont either for that matter,,
Looks like a green ****,
When I Order a cv boot kit it comes with a #1 grade or thinner grease,,,
All the time,
Rix
New member
IT'S GREASE, frank.
The grease that THE MANUFACTURER SUPPLIED.
I KNOW you don't know what it is.
It's VERY obvious that you don't know A LOT OF THINGS.
Rix
New member
:whipping2
tranny Frank
Banned
tranny Frank
Banned
Your not A Master yet Rixxer,
No The outside shot of the knuckle leaking oil from the lower trunnion cap,
Not that one where you already swapped out the grease and showing me a bone dry ball, which is bad news,
You know the one, why dont you post it,,, I want to see the build up of #1 grease where the wiper seal terminates, as your wacky professor Idaho doug puts it,,,
That one,, you already grease swapped that one,
Like this one, showing a nice clean knuckle ball, 6 years after that knuckle job?
No The outside shot of the knuckle leaking oil from the lower trunnion cap,
Not that one where you already swapped out the grease and showing me a bone dry ball, which is bad news,
You know the one, why dont you post it,,, I want to see the build up of #1 grease where the wiper seal terminates, as your wacky professor Idaho doug puts it,,,
That one,, you already grease swapped that one,
Rix
New member
So here is what I get from the parts store,, for a CV joint , #1 grade grease
From the parts store.
AFTERMARKET PARTS.
Again, you have NO basis for the factory does.
:thanks:
Maritimer
New member
Thanks for the nice attitude.
.......
In other news,
I'd think a serious issue could lay off the flaming a bit and stick to facts. How could an actual technical issue deteriorate to a flame war?
.......
So, use the grease they are recommending, which is different from the original fill, and what happens? (Something bad I assume.)
Also, the production grease when examined will have them charging for repair?
There aren't a lot of major technical folks here, so they can chime in. In the meantime, please remember a lot of the members are coming on worrying about something broken and looking for some knowledge sharing, and maybe move the argument a bit slower.
Rix
New member
frank is tryiing to say that the factory grease is a #0, sodium based, moly fortified goo (but he says moly is junk, even when the stuff he's trying to REsell has it) is incompatible with what the factory repair manuals say to use.
His theory is that this causes oil seperation of the grease(s) and THAT is what is actually being seen when the knuckles are all nastified and caked with a greasy mess.
AND he says that toyota dealerships, and virtually every other repair shop is charging to fix this when it should be left alone (to leak all over the knuckles, and in bad cases, the brakes).
He goes on to say that the goo leaking on the brakes is the toyota engineer's way of telling the owner, BY WAY OF A BRAKE PULL, that the knuckles need repair.
I will re-iterate a VERY important point here:
I was working on the last of the solid axle landcruisers, when they were still new, and under warranty. I have seen what was in the knuckles from the factory, and it was NOT a #0 or #1, sodium based soup.
This whole thing is rediculous.
tranny Frank
Banned
Thanks
No problem,
The introduction of a incompatible grease causes a interaction between the base of grease
Base of greases to name a few are lithium, calcium, and sodium, there are others but think of these as the big 3
So these axles are filled with a sodium based semi fluid grease, the introduction of a lithium causes a chemical reaction between the bases that then allows the oil that is mixed into grease to separate and bleed thru the wiper seal, trunnion cap, hub dial in some cases,
as Rixxer explained earlier in this thread, make a big mess,, although the factory trained sales tech believes this to be axle seal failure,
because of his indoctrination,
The whole thing is a crazy deal, but this is what I came to find out after a Toyota dealership informed me that this grease was "Private"
Yes when the oil separates from the grease it is a very bad deal, excessive heat , lack of lube, failure,
And since this product was not readily available I tracked some down and selling it,
But hey no problem have lots of pictures, but mostly of this lube going in wheel hubs of domestic rigs,
A whole outline on Utah Rock crawler thread called "Toyota core axle"
so its really basic, and your a bit better off without a false technical background to know what is going on here, just some basic common sense,
Hence the term "Master of the obvious"
Frank
No problem,
The introduction of a incompatible grease causes a interaction between the base of grease
Base of greases to name a few are lithium, calcium, and sodium, there are others but think of these as the big 3
So these axles are filled with a sodium based semi fluid grease, the introduction of a lithium causes a chemical reaction between the bases that then allows the oil that is mixed into grease to separate and bleed thru the wiper seal, trunnion cap, hub dial in some cases,
as Rixxer explained earlier in this thread, make a big mess,, although the factory trained sales tech believes this to be axle seal failure,
because of his indoctrination,
The whole thing is a crazy deal, but this is what I came to find out after a Toyota dealership informed me that this grease was "Private"
Yes when the oil separates from the grease it is a very bad deal, excessive heat , lack of lube, failure,
And since this product was not readily available I tracked some down and selling it,
But hey no problem have lots of pictures, but mostly of this lube going in wheel hubs of domestic rigs,
A whole outline on Utah Rock crawler thread called "Toyota core axle"
so its really basic, and your a bit better off without a false technical background to know what is going on here, just some basic common sense,
Hence the term "Master of the obvious"
Frank
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