Well now that I’'ve had my lift on for a full week I’d like to give you my feedback.
The Lift:
Let’s start with the lift itself. I bought a used OME kit off of a guy on here that claimed it had around 10K miles on it for $600. It showed up looking used but not bad actually looked like he cleaned it fairly well before listing it to sell. The kit components are as follows.
Front: 884 Springs on OME 90010 Struts that were assembled and had the ¾” top plate spacer.
Rear: Toytec Superflex Springs and OME 60020
I didn’t want to have the top plate spacer and had every intention of swapping the top mount plates off of my OEM struts and putting them on the assembled OME struts. That didn’t happen because I just pulled the spacer off the top and cut the studs down with an air cut-off tool. I didn’t really want to dissemble the strut for the entire sake of putting shorter studs on it, so cutting them down about ¾ worked perfectly. I also figured if I ever wanted to sell that OEM stuff w/ the spacer on it I can just go get 6 new studs for about $10 bucks, no big loss there.
The Install:
For instructions I just read over the two instruction that the FJ Forum has and combined that with the instructions that toytec offers as a pdf download on their website I was in business. I did it 100% by myself and didn’t have an extra hand at all ever. Would it have been faster with someone else, maybe but I mostly like people out of my way so I can work.
Here was my schedule of events.
6:30PM - make dinner for kiddos
7:00PM - Start rear end – Mostly jack up, remove tires, and disassemble
7:30PM - Bath kiddos
8:00PM – Started to Finish Up rear
9:00PM - Start Front Passenger - bit of a learning curve here
12:00PM - Finish front Passenger - Should have only taken 1.25 hrs not 3
8:00AM - Start Driver Front
9:15AM - Finish Driver Front
9:45AM - head for alignment shop
How hard was it? Much easier than installing my overhead screen in the 4Runner – I would say if you can change your own oil or change a tire you can do this by yourself given you have the right tools.
Tools:
Tools that I found made the job much easier in addition to a 3/8” and 1/2” metric socket set and boxed-end wrench set.
A Giant pry bar – I borrowed a 2’ craftsman one from my neighbor.
½ Torque wrench – I borrowed from AutoZone “loan-a-tool” paid $100 deposit returned got my money back.
3x Strut compressor – “loan-a-tool” paid $60 each and returned – only used one set for the rear springs.
Good Floor jack – mine crapped out half way through the rear and had to use the OEM bottle jack.
2x Good jack stands
3/8” extension set. Typically had 3 sizes and not too expensive.
3/8” socket swivel for reaching some of those tougher bolts
1/2” socket swivel for reaching some of those tougher bolts
These help speed up the timing:
1/2” Air Impact Wrench
3/8” Air Wrench
Metric ratcheting boxed-end wrench set – got mine from Home Depot for $16 worked fine
Here are the measurements:
Pre lift -
DSF - 34.75"
DSR - 36.75"
PSF - 35.25"
PSR - 37.25"
Post lift & tires -
DSF - 38.25" - 3.5" lift (has OME 5mm trim packer too)
DSR - 39.5" - 2.75" lift
PSF - 38.5" - 3.25" lift
PSR - 39.75" - 2.5" lift
My thoughts:
After Alignment they could only get 1.7* Caster on the DS and 2.4* on the PS. So UCAs are in my future.
My Impressions on how it drives w/ the 285/70/17 BFG TA KO (D) tires:
I've had significant tire rubbing (285/70/17) on the fronts inner lining, there is no more room to move the fender forward. I'm thinking heat gun next. So when I get my UCAs I think 4* is going to be even more rubbing, but better driving.
Some stiffness might be from the tires but I did mount the tires first and they didn’t feel that rough on factory suspension.
The rear is plenty stiff for everyday driving. I can’t imagine having anything stiffer in the rear without a significant weight permanently mounted. Certain drops in the pavement result in what sounds like the shock over extending or a slight thud, not a big deal or too annoying but it’s there. The front feels much stiffer and the body roll has decreased by at least 70% all around. I don’t understand how the people with no bull bars and winches say it feels fine with a 885 or 889 spring in front. I call BS, cause the 884’s are plenty stiff as is. Most of them say “it feels more like a truck” I say you must have only had super duty or 1 ton unloaded trucks. Lesson here is listen to OME and if you have not additional weight don’t over spring your rig. Running down a really rough road at a reasonable speed I can say it’s much smoother and takes the hits better. As far as crawling around over things it feels much more solid and has a lot let body roll when the tension is released. Rear articulation is as described by Toytec and seems to flex really well. Over all the steering feels better….but I can’t wait to get new UCA’s (Camburg BJ ones) to get that caster pushed out to 4*.
I have lost about 2 miles per/gal so if that is a concern for you than don’t do this. A good alternative that I go back and forth on wishing I would have done is 5100’s all around with the fronts at 1.75” and a 1.5” spacer (1” actual lift seen) paired with 265/70/17 BFG TA KO (C) load tires. It would have saved some mpg, cheaper tires, slightly better power, and no need for UCAs.
Over all I give it an 8/10. (Factory a 3/10). I wish they had a bit more rebound damping but these aren’t race or valve adjustable shocks so it is what it is and for $600 an overall good purchase.
Hope this helps some of the Noobs and if you have any questions just ask!
