theesotericone's Trails and BS Thread

Damn those are huge!! I bet those are bigger than brand new MT/R's. I just ordered another two this morning, so I'll measure the actually height at the same PSI. You measure front or rear?

As for the tubbing write up, check my build thread or the 35's thread. I don't remember where I posted it up. Probably on both though.

I'm skipping the write-ups. Remove coils. Cycle suspension. Cut more then you need. Learn to weld. Profit. lol

Both front and rear are the same. Here's the drivers front:

Fcvzfsx.jpg
 
Uh it's called rear steer. Toyota so graciously designed it into our rear suspension geometry :pound:

- yeah, it's really roll oversteer, but my point was that you can really see it with that big ass tread right up against the door..!
 
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Tonight's hour in the garage yielded this.


lYrPm84.jpg


CauEwmi.jpg



After getting the rig on stands and removing the coilover on the passenger side I was able to stuff the tire about 1/2" off the factory bump. Then I took 2 1/4" off the fender by measuring off the tire. I ended up having to cut that same 2 1/4" off my front bumper and I think I'll have to go 1/2" more. It's dangerously close to the front quarter panel mount.

After getting it stuffed again I'm hitting the bottom of the wheel well where the airbox is located. So that's gotta come out and get moved up.

The rear is barely touching my slider. It's hitting the wheel well above the pinch weld pretty good. I've still got some frame clearance so tomorrow I'll pull the spacers and cycle it again.
 
Tonight's hour in the garage yielded this.


lYrPm84.jpg



After getting the rig on stands and removing the coilover on the passenger side I was able to stuff the tire about 1/2" off the factory bump. Then I took 2 1/4" off the fender by measuring off the tire. I ended up having to cut that same 2 1/4" off my front bumper and I think I'll have to go 1/2" more. It's dangerously close to the front quarter panel mount.

After getting it stuffed again I'm hitting the bottom of the wheel well where the airbox is located. So that's gotta come out and get moved up.

The rear is barely touching my slider. It's hitting the wheel well above the pinch weld pretty good. I've still got some frame clearance so tomorrow I'll pull the spacers and cycle it again.


Holy cow... Those new shoes are massive! Digging all the cool upgrades you are throwing in the mix man.

I am getting my STT Pros mounted Monday, and then I will be all-in as far as my mission clearing goes. I think mine will be somewhat shorter than yours,(maybe closer to 34-34.5"), but we'll see what I got to work with once they are on there. I am running 3.5 BS wheels and have them set fairly forward with the SPC UCAs. I was hoping to avoid dealing with shaving the fenders, but it pretty much looks like that is what needs to happen for anyone NOT running a BL. So be it. I also have a snorkel to slap on there when I can.

I am interested to see what, if anything needs to happen out back to clear. I am already running the SS extended bump stops, so we'll see. Hahaha.

I can't wait to see this rig tackle some nasty stuff soon.
 
After getting the rig on stands and removing the coilover on the passenger side I was able to stuff the tire about 1/2" off the factory bump. Then I took 2 1/4" off the fender by measuring off the tire. I ended up having to cut that same 2 1/4" off my front bumper and I think I'll have to go 1/2" more. It's dangerously close to the front quarter panel mount.

After getting it stuffed again I'm hitting the bottom of the wheel well where the airbox is located. So that's gotta come out and get moved up.

The rear is barely touching my slider. It's hitting the wheel well above the pinch weld pretty good. I've still got some frame clearance so tomorrow I'll pull the spacers and cycle it again.

And welcome to the shit show that is fitting big tires with no body lift on these trucks lol.

My advice is don't use the factory bump as your limiting factor. Take it off and push the tire up another 1/2 inch. This will guarantee that you will never rub once you're done. I made the mistake of not doing that the first time I tubbed mine, just going off the stock bumps, and after all that work it still rubbed like no one's business.
 
Another hour in the garage.

Here's the drivers side fender cut. I made template of the passenger side then flipped it and traced it. Works great.

OjcsqQM.jpg



Here's the big ass hole in my drivers foot well.

ttKE3NW.jpg



I can't weld but I did get some sheet metal in place on the passenger side foot well.

hZtfZMW.jpg




Now, here's the kicker. My factory airbox will not fit anymore. I had to beat the sheet metal underneath it up almost 2 inches. That makes the factory airbox not work anymore. Who else has run into this fitting true 35's?

I could beat it back down and just deal with the rub at full stuff but I might go with a cold air intake. I know that will fit I just am not a huge fan of them.

Opinions?
 
...Now, here's the kicker. My factory airbox will not fit anymore. I had to beat the sheet metal underneath it up almost 2 inches. That makes the factory airbox not work anymore. Who else has run into this fitting true 35's?

I could beat it back down and just deal with the rub at full stuff but I might go with a cold air intake. I know that will fit I just am not a huge fan of them.

Opinions?

Matt, as you know, I have zip experience with 35s here, but I have modified a factory airbox before on a different vehicle by using a heat gun to re-form or shape a portion of the box so I could make room for something else. It actually worked quite well. Just a thought...
 
Matt, as you know, I have zip experience with 35s here, but I have modified a factory airbox before on a different vehicle by using a heat gun to re-form or shape a portion of the box so I could make room for something else. It actually worked quite well. Just a thought...


It's a good thought. I was thinking along the same lines but so much needs to be cut out of the back of the box I don't think just a heat gun would do it. What I might try is making a template of the rear portion that's making the most contact. Then trace that onto the box. Test fit the box to make sure the contour is correct. Then use some plasty weld and some type of plastic sheet to reseal it all.

As soon as I started to clearance that area I knew it would be an issue but I didn't think it would be as bad as it is. lol
 
It's a good thought. I was thinking along the same lines but so much needs to be cut out of the back of the box I don't think just a heat gun would do it. What I might try is making a template of the rear portion that's making the most contact. Then trace that onto the box. Test fit the box to make sure the contour is correct. Then use some plasty weld and some type of plastic sheet to reseal it all.

As soon as I started to clearance that area I knew it would be an issue but I didn't think it would be as bad as it is. lol

A visual would help, but sounds like you really encroached on the box. I like your idea about mocking something up. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel for some surgery. If you don't have any plastic sheets lying around, you probably have some thin sheet metal you can contour... Then something like JB Weld to reseal. Curious to see what you do.
 
Now, here's the kicker. My factory airbox will not fit anymore. I had to beat the sheet metal underneath it up almost 2 inches. That makes the factory airbox not work anymore. Who else has run into this fitting true 35's?

I could beat it back down and just deal with the rub at full stuff but I might go with a cold air intake. I know that will fit I just am not a huge fan of them.

Opinions?

I pushed mine up about as far as could with the airbox installed and called it good. I barely kiss it at full bump and it only rubs when I'm smashing bumps at speed, never notice it while "crawling" and at full bump. Just make sure that where it does rub it is a nice smooth surface. Youll basically hit the top of your wheel well regardless of what you do to remedy it besides cutting the whole thing out and moving it up or adding longer bump stops.
 
It's a good thought. I was thinking along the same lines but so much needs to be cut out of the back of the box I don't think just a heat gun would do it. What I might try is making a template of the rear portion that's making the most contact. Then trace that onto the box. Test fit the box to make sure the contour is correct. Then use some plasty weld and some type of plastic sheet to reseal it all.

As soon as I started to clearance that area I knew it would be an issue but I didn't think it would be as bad as it is. lol

Glad I did the frame drop.

Keep it up!
 
I pushed mine up about as far as could with the airbox installed and called it good. I barely kiss it at full bump and it only rubs when I'm smashing bumps at speed, never notice it while "crawling" and at full bump. Just make sure that where it does rub it is a nice smooth surface. Youll basically hit the top of your wheel well regardless of what you do to remedy it besides cutting the whole thing out and moving it up or adding longer bump stops.

I'm clearancing more then most do for sure. The reason is that eventually I will try and fit 37's. Plus I just like to do shit the hard way. lol


Glad I did the frame drop.

Keep it up!


I really wish I like "frame drops" but for now I'm going without. After this is done I might consider a 1/2" one in the future. I'm pretty sure I could make 37's work with that.

Only having an hour once or twice a week is killing me. I'd really like to be done with it but it'll be mid December by the time it's totally finished at this rate.
 
I really wish I like "frame drops" but for now I'm going without. After this is done I might consider a 1/2" one in the future. I'm pretty sure I could make 37's work with that.

Only having an hour once or twice a week is killing me. I'd really like to be done with it but it'll be mid December by the time it's totally finished at this rate.

I feel your pain. With cyclocross season and team commitments I have not been able to fix anything on the 4runner lately.
 
I smell a good new thread start here - "What gets in the way of your wrenching?"

I'm sure we'd hear plenty of stories, most we can relate, some not.

I feel for ya Matt.
 

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