Thermosteel Exhaust Repair

[tvpierce]

It looks like the OP's flanges, welds, and piping are in excellent condition... just that the nut is not tight enough.
I wonder if the nut is either cross threaded, or is the wrong pitch. (SAE nut on a metric stud)

I would soak the nut and the stud (on both sides of the flange) with PB Blaster or your penetrant of choice over the course of many days. The time and heat cycles will help the penetrant do its job. After several days of repeated application, use a 6 point socket and try to loosen the nut. I suspect the stud will come out before the nut comes loose. Either way, it's a win. Then try getting the nut off and replace with the proper pitch nut. Or just get a new stud and nut.

A tip I learned from a pro years ago: When you install any exhaust system or part, use the proper gasket/seal and smear some of this stuff on both sides before assembly. In a perfect world, the gasket would seal and no extra sealing would be necessary. But a little extra insurance never hurts. As the tube says, "Avoids Come-Backs"! I don't want to have to do a job twice if I don't have to.

 

[brillo_76]

Another tip.

Would be to heat your exhaust nuts up till they slighty start to glow with a torch. Then soak them with penetrating oil. Let them cool the entire way down to room temperature and sometimes they will come loose.

On my flange bolts and nuts from the cat back. I always replace them with metric stainless nuts, washers, lock washer and bolts. That way you can get them apart in the rust belt.

If you can get the stainless flange nuts and bolts, then you only need the lock washer.

I could be wrong but I believe the sensor nuts and the header 3 flange nuts are single use throw away and buy new replacements in the factory service manual.



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