Things you did not know about your 4runner

Could the Factory Remote Start have programmable features? ... I understand that one can program "delete" seat belt chimes etc. Wonder if one can also program features of the Factory Remote Start too.

I lloked when I first bought my truck. I haven't seen anything in the user manual, the installation instructions, or Carista. Techstream? Maybe, I haven't got it so I cannot say for sure, my guess is 99.9% doubtful. It pretty much is what it is.

It works fine to warm you car up or cool it down, if you don't mind restarting as you normally would. I agree it could be better, like give you 10 seconds to unlock the door and insert the key, it doesn't so oh well. I chose the OEM simply because I didn't want someone in some off the grid shop hacking into a majority of the trucks systems that may of may not know what they were doing.
 
Pretty sure it is not a genuine Toyota VIP remote start then. It is entirely possible the dealer installed a 3rd party remote start, some work with OEM fobs.

Unlocking or opening a door, pressing the brake pedal, taking the truck out of P, opening the hood, all kill the OEM remote engine start.

Yes and no. If I hit LOCK 2xs quickly and then hold LOCK down for 2 seconds, the engine starts, the car alarm goes off, and touching anything kills the engine.

However, if I depress LOCK 3xs quickly in 3 seconds, no alarm, the engine starts and I can turn the key in the ignition and drive off....
 
After buying my 4runner 3 months ago I found out from this thread, I don't have a remote start, no hidden compartment, but I did figure out the little light that's in between the map lights. I was wondering what that little hole was. LOL
 
I hated this too. Put the transmission in S and then tap forward for S-5 and the eco bar goes off. Car drives normal.

Yea, but then the shift lever is off to the side, and it's not as comfortable to rest my hand on it.

Definitely first world problems.
 
Yes and no. If I hit LOCK 2xs quickly and then hold LOCK down for 2 seconds, the engine starts, the car alarm goes off, and touching anything kills the engine.

However, if I depress LOCK 3xs quickly in 3 seconds, no alarm, the engine starts and I can turn the key in the ignition and drive off....

As an owner of a 15 LE w/ OEM remote start - this is not an OEM remote starter.

I wish it was, because I genuinely only use the damn thing in the winter to appease the wife.
 
After buying my 4runner 3 months ago I found out from this thread, I don't have a remote start, no hidden compartment, but I did figure out the little light that's in between the map lights. I was wondering what that little hole was. LOL

Wait. What? That's a light? Where's the On/Off switch?
 
The small part of my brain that is OCD cleaned up the spelling, and made a few other minor adjustments. Hope to OP does not mind :)

This is a great cheat sheet for those of us that don't hit the trails every weekend!!!

For those of you who created and contributed to this document ...

First, thank you. This is a great reference.

Second, I'm trying to understand the "when to use" details for the locking rear differential. It says:

Lock before you get to obstacle and before creating wheel spin. Especially if you will get some axle articulation.

This implies you need to engage the lock before getting into an obstacle. I asked about this in this thread and based on the responses it seems that you can still engage the lock even after losing traction. Some even recommended waiting until that point.

Can you guys help me understand why you worded it to imply the lock should be engaged before losing traction?
 
For those of you who created and contributed to this document ...

First, thank you. This is a great reference.

Second, I'm trying to understand the "when to use" details for the locking rear differential. It says:



This implies you need to engage the lock before getting into an obstacle. I asked about this in this thread and based on the responses it seems that you can still engage the lock even after losing traction. Some even recommended waiting until that point.

Can you guys help me understand why you worded it to imply the lock should be engaged before losing traction?

You can lock it whenever you want. What you don't want to do is already having there rear wheels spinning at drastically different speeds and lock the diff.

I'd lock it before you go into that deep mudhole. But if you want to try to climb a ledge, you lift some wheels, stop, then lock it, that works too. Just stopping in a deep mudhole isn't always the best plan. You CAN lock it while moving, as long as the rear wheels are pretty much moving at the same speed (as in they both have traction).
 
For those of you who created and contributed to this document ...

First, thank you. This is a great reference.

Second, I'm trying to understand the "when to use" details for the locking rear differential. It says:



This implies you need to engage the lock before getting into an obstacle. I asked about this in this thread and based on the responses it seems that you can still engage the lock even after losing traction. Some even recommended waiting until that point.

Can you guys help me understand why you worded it to imply the lock should be engaged before losing traction?

Well you want to avoid losing traction over an obstacle. Losing traction in that scenario is losing control, which can have pretty negative results. As you drive in more varied conditions more frequently you will begin to realize what you need to do when and where. It all comes with experience. If you think you will lose traction based on how the trail is driving, engage it. I mean, you know, it is pushing a button. Its not like you have to get out in the mud and rain and lock your hubs :)
 
Ok, so it's a matter of not damaging the differential by trying to engage the lock with different rotation speeds on each side. Thanks!
 
Ok, so it's a matter of not damaging the differential by trying to engage the lock with different rotation speeds on each side. Thanks!

Well sure, the idea is to know when you have a much higher probability to lose traction and avoid it, that can be by adjusting how you are driving or using some other tool in the chest. Besides spinning wheels (although sometime unavoidable) trashes trails :)
 
For those of you who created and contributed to this document ...

First, thank you. This is a great reference.

Second, I'm trying to understand the "when to use" details for the locking rear differential. It says:



This implies you need to engage the lock before getting into an obstacle. I asked about this in this thread and based on the responses it seems that you can still engage the lock even after losing traction. Some even recommended waiting until that point.

Can you guys help me understand why you worded it to imply the lock should be engaged before losing traction?

Careful where you tread here. Next thing your are going to say is, "There is more than one opinion on how to do something on the internet." DON'T GO THERE!!
 
Careful where you tread here. Next thing your are going to say is, "There is more than one opinion on how to do something on the internet." DON'T GO THERE!!

You do know that if you are going to be sarcastic you're supposed to use green text don't you?

ie Anyone else think all the new users from Denver are a weird bunch, beginning to think they are all the same person

Like that :D :thumb:
 

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