Think I finally found a 3rd gen

Any idea what kind of money is involved in replacing that? If its cheap, seems like it would have been done already.


don't need it. When I got a new head unit they took it out. If they don't have the factory head unit in then that can be thrown away.
But is it even broken? I might still have the one they took out hanging around. If it's not broken you can just throw it back in.
 
I offered 5k. I don't think he wants to go for it, he mentioned the rear tires are pretty new.

Any idea about the costs of the speed sensor that needs to be replaced?
 
Found from Toyota service website. Here is why the factory amp is out:

STARTING AND CHARGING
SYSTEMS DIAGNOSE CUSTOMER
STATED HAS REPLACED BATTERY
AND ALTERNATOR AND STILL WILL
NOT HOLD CHARGE PLEASE
ADVISE ~|~FOUND FAULT IN AMP,
CUSTOMER DECLINED REPAIR,
REMOVED AMP FRO M CIRCUT TO
PREVENT FUTHER VOLTA GE DRAW
~|~DIAGNOSE STARTING AND
CHARGIN G SYST
 
Any idea what kind of money is involved in replacing that? If its cheap, seems like it would have been done already.

I think I have my old one. Pay shipping and you can have it. Try yours first though as someone else suggested. If you have the OEM stereo it won't work without the amp.
 
I think I have my old one. Pay shipping and you can have it. Try yours first though as someone else suggested. If you have the OEM stereo it won't work without the amp.

Sounds like they are saying the amp was the source of a parasitic amp draw (pardon the pun) I guess it could be but for some reason I doubt it.

What I am wondering is if there is another electrical gremlin still hanging out. Pulling the amp must have solved the issue. But if I add an after market head unit or a working amp would I have the issue come back?
 
What I am wondering is if there is another electrical gremlin still hanging out. Pulling the amp must have solved the issue. But if I add an after market head unit or a working amp would I have the issue come back?

Maybe, assuming what they wrote on the WO was the issue. Your not going to find out until the amp is reinstalled and PROPER diagnosis is done. Seems like a lost art anymore. Just hang parts or remove them to fix the problem. And what gets me is people are OK with it. AND PAY FOR IT!! :mad2:
 
I offered 5k and have had dead silence.

Considering offering 5500. But I think the price is deceptive. By the time I do the water pump and timing belt, fix the amp issue if it comes up, and address any misc issues that pop up while doing WP/TB I am sure I will have a big bill.
 
I would give it a couple days before offering him $5500 and I wouldn't go higher than that. That is all assuming there are no signs that it had the radiator replaced because of a pink milkshake.

Definitely check around the coolant reservoir and the radiator area for signs that a PMS happened. Don't forget to inspect the tranny fluid also.

As far as the parasitic draw, electrical gremlins can do some crazy stuff. If the dealership said the amp was the cause and removing it fixed it, then I would assume that is was the cause. Why it happened? Who the hell knows and if you plan on putting an aftermarket head unit in anyway, who cares. I wouldn't worry about it too much.|

Keep us posted.
 
I would give it a couple days before offering him $5500 and I wouldn't go higher than that. That is all assuming there are no signs that it had the radiator replaced because of a pink milkshake.

Definitely check around the coolant reservoir and the radiator area for signs that a PMS happened. Don't forget to inspect the tranny fluid also.

As far as the parasitic draw, electrical gremlins can do some crazy stuff. If the dealership said the amp was the cause and removing it fixed it, then I would assume that is was the cause. Why it happened? Who the hell knows and if you plan on putting an aftermarket head unit in anyway, who cares. I wouldn't worry about it too much.|

Keep us posted.

Will do on all counts.
 
The truck sold guys. I appreciate all of the quick responses and information. Ultimately, you guys gave me a reality check and I did not buy the truck based on the low millage.

Those low 100-110k mile trucks are so hard to pass over. But I guess in all honesty, you are much better off with a 140-150k truck that was taken care of. Based on the story I received, the guy did the bare minimum to get by.
 
I think you made a good choice(albeit a hard one), [MENTION=150565]Clemson[/MENTION]
Like I said; go with your gut. I've regretted buying at least one vehicle- and I definitely wasn't sure it was a good buy. Even though everything looked good, and it was- logically- a good buy, it was deceiving.
2007 Audi A3 S-Line 6 speed. Found out the guy had blown up the engine, and had just replaced it 2 weeks before I got it. Of course he didn't disclose that. Also found out the rear quarter panel had been repaired, and the work wasn't stellar. No accidents according to CarFax. Hardest car I've ever sold. Took over 6 months. 2007 6 speed 335i- on the other hand- sold for $1,500 over what I paid for it. And that was 18mos and 20k miles later! Got it from a BMW enthusiast who took meticulous care of it. Regret selling that incredibly bad.
Maybe that 2002 could have been a great rig, but the parasitic draw, 4WD not working, and spark plugs never being changed- better safe than sorry [emoji1360]
 
hope you find one. don't be afraid to make a weekend to travel to get one. at the age of these vehicles I would focus more on service records and history than I would miles
 
hope you find one. don't be afraid to make a weekend to travel to get one. at the age of these vehicles I would focus more on service records and history than I would miles


I think thats what I am going to have to do. I work weekends so its a huge pain trying to get off work. But I could be looking at a LONG wait homding out for the perfect rig close by.
 
I think thats what I am going to have to do. I work weekends so its a huge pain trying to get off work. But I could be looking at a LONG wait homding out for the perfect rig close by.

if work weekends could go pick up during week when you are off too. fly up about time seller gets off work, pick up that evening, drive home that night

use CL and check cities within 3-4 hours, check ebay, autotrader,

what is your price range/year range? what must it have, what can't it have, etc

I will keep my eye out as well
 
Looks like a nice car with low mileage. If no issues with Carfax report, probably not a bad price at asking price, but I would try to negotiate a little. I spend over 1000 for new set of Michelins with alignment agreement around 6 years ago on my '98, still have them on car, spent 700 at dealer for timing belt/water pump back in 07, car has 199k running great, uses no oil to speak of, cold AC, have only replaced muffler, timing belt, and routine maintenance since I got it in '06 at 75k.
 

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