THink I found My Lift and Need opinions

cipstinger

New member
Ok Guys I think I found my lift

Front

Bilstein 5100 Height Adjustable Front Strut Set D558 with Front adjustable coil over kit

Rear

Bilstein 5100 rear shock

OME 891

Front dif drop kit

what do you guys think
 
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I have never had the front OME coils so I can't comment on the 883s.
I did have the 891s and they were nice.
Going with the Bilstein shocks gets a thumbs up from me.
You can go without a panhard bar drop (ToyTec sells them, must be welded on) but you may feel the rear swing when the suspension compresses. The drop levels the PHB out so when the suspension compresses and extends, the axle moves more vertical.
The rear brake line bracket may need a little bending to get enough droop. Also check the ABS wires. They can be carefully pulled thru the clamps.
The parking brake mount on the rear axle should be raised a couple of inches to relieve some tension.
All simple things.
I also cut a couple of donuts off the big rubber cones inside the rear coils (if your has them). They will limit compression when wheeling (unless you don't wheel).

The one thing that I regret with the multiple generations of changing lifts on my rig is, I wish I started with a pair of ToyTec coilovers (I have them now). They would allow me to dial in the exact lift I want and allow them to grow as the rear lift grew.
 
Thanks I was up half the night doing more research and think I have it now.

I decided to go with the Bilstein 5100s with the Coil over Kit

I have read a lot of threads no not sure why I would need the Pan Bar Drop with only a 3inch lift

I don't currently do a lot of Wheeling but I plan on doing some this summer so I am trying to get this right the first time.

Also is the OME 891 in the rear to much lift. I would really like the vehicle level but I won't mind a small rake.
I do tow two large 3 seater waverunners all summer long and the trailer has some extras that make it heavy and I don't want the rear of the vehicle sagging.
 
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Do some research on the panhard bar. The more you life, the more sideways the bar swings instead of up and down. Other then that, the lift sounds good.
 
I have read a lot of threads no not sure why I would need the Pan Bar Drop with only a 3inch lift

Because the farther from horizontal the panhard sits at static ride height, the more offset to the passenger side the axle will sit, and it'll go even farther when the suspension droops. It'll affect how the truck drives down the freeway and how it acts as your rear springs load and unload. It's not hugely critical at three inches, but if you're trying to do it "right", you should keep everything as close to OEM as possible, which includes your panhard angle.

What might be critical is that front diff drop - there's a fairly convincing argument that the way the diff drop angles your pumpkin leads to poor oiling and will roast your gears. If you do the diff drop, I'd do a manual hub swap too so that your front diff isn't spinning when you don't want it to.
 
I have run 890, 891, LC 9.25 wraps and now 861s. The 891s are nice coils. They carry towing weight well. Since you are going with the COs, you can dial in exactly the height/rake you want.

When I went from the 890 to the 891s (about the same height but stronger spring), I added a PHB drop. I immediately noticed the difference. Without the drop, I would feel the rear swim (left and right) on bumps. The drop eliminated that feeling. Yes at 3", I would suggest doing a PHB drop.

The stock position of the PHB is fairly level. Upon compression and rebound (normal road driving) the axle moves in a mainly vertical motion.

This allows the arc of the bar to be in a mainly vertical direction. When lifting, the axle is pulled toward the passenger side. This also causes the PHB arc to be more diagonal. This diagonal arc causes the axle to move left and right when compressing/extending (more than a vertical arc).

A drop and adjustable bar allow the axle to center back up. The adjustable bar is a bolt on but retains that diagonal arc. This can be felt as "bump steer" of a swimming feeling. When properly adjusted, you can minimize the gas tank contact. Steve and I talked about this contact and I made adjustments to the tank skid that i sell. Steve actually runs one of my skids.His bar looks like a great option and there are many out there.

The drop brings the PHB back to a more horizontal position (like factory). Because of this, The arc is more vertical again (under normal street driving). Also since you have not lengthened the PHB, the clearance (driveshaft and gas tank) has not changed. The drop must be mounted in a vertical position which sometimes takes a little grinding. It must also be welded on.

Diff drops. Long debated. See my post #3 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/124476-diff-drop-specs-measurements.html I have over 100,000 miles with my diff drop and have had no issues.

The CV boots will probably rub after lifting. This rubbing can wear thru the boots. Stretching your boots can help. See my post #41 http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/87397-diff-drop-3.html
 
OK great thanks for all the feedback fellas. on all the parts sites I have been looking at is there an ADJ PB that you can recommend.
 
Do what I am doing. Adjustable panhard. They run about 200 or you can make one for about 100. Than no welding, and no brackets :mullet:
 
Last quick question what size tires are you guys running with a 3 inch lift

I was looking at the BFG KM2 265/75R16 which is just about 32s
 
I'm running 265/75-16 Duratracs on my 4"/5" lift.
Same size for when I had a 3" lift. I'm very happy with this size.
 
Did any of you guys use extended brake lines with the 3 inch


and WOW thanks again you guys have been a great help I should start my build thread soon. I am going to order the parts and hopefully I can install them in a few weeks.
 

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