Thinking of towing my car - will it work?

[john123drury]

Hey guys - 2005 4Runner V6 rear wheel / 4-wheel drive. I'm considering towing my 88 Trans Am on a 13-hour journey. I still have the towing hitch that came with the car when I purchased it in 05. The 4Runner also has a stock weight carrying hitch installed ("type B") on the back. But I have never towed anything with it before. I'd done a lot of researching on the subject of my SUV and towing capacities and i'm SOOO close that I'd appreciate your opinions.

From what I've read, the towing capacity of my 4Runner is 5000 lbs. My trans am weighs exactly 3520 LBS (just had it weighed last week). I found a place nearby that sells auto transport trailers at a reasonable price and weight with good specs (Econotrailer). The trailer I'm eyeing has a "curb weight" of 1451 lbs. Combining the two, I am now at 4971 lbs. JUST made it.

Next, combine the weight of myself and my family and luggage (estimating about 500 lbs), we come to a total of 5471 LBS between us and the auto transport.

In looking at the manual for the car verbatim, here's how it reads:

"Total load capacity:
With 5 occupants - 950 lbs

Towing Capacity:
For weight carrying hitch - 5000 lb

The combination of the gross trailer weight added to the total weight of the vehicle, occupants and cargo, must never exceed a total of the following:

For weight carrying hitch:
1GR-FE engine - 9600 LBS"

I also looked at the sticker insider the driver's side door. The GVWR rating for the 4Runner says "5580 lbs".

So taking all of the above into account, would my 4Runner be able to handle this type of load? Looking at the door label alone, I THINK I'm within the limits (barely), but again would appreciate your insights.

Thanks everyone!

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

You'll be fine. Make sure the trailer you are getting has surge brakes. If it has electric brakes you will need a brake controller.

I tow my race car and trailer just fine with my 2wd v6.

 

[john123drury]

Thanks Large. In reading the specs on the trailer, it has 'electric brakes'. So what is the extra brake controller I would need to get? Is it part of the wiring harness? Extra add-on? Do you have a link to one?

Thanks again!

 

[preacher35]

Hey guys - 2005 4Runner V6 rear wheel / 4-wheel drive. I'm considering towing my 88 Trans Am on a 13-hour journey. I still have the towing hitch that came with the car when I purchased it in 05. The 4Runner also has a stock weight carrying hitch installed ("type B") on the back. But I have never towed anything with it before. I'd done a lot of researching on the subject of my SUV and towing capacities and i'm SOOO close that I'd appreciate your opinions.

From what I've read, the towing capacity of my 4Runner is 5000 lbs. My trans am weighs exactly 3520 LBS (just had it weighed last week). I found a place nearby that sells auto transport trailers at a reasonable price and weight with good specs (Econotrailer). The trailer I'm eyeing has a "curb weight" of 1451 lbs. Combining the two, I am now at 4971 lbs. JUST made it.

Next, combine the weight of myself and my family and luggage (estimating about 500 lbs), we come to a total of 5471 LBS between us and the auto transport.

In looking at the manual for the car verbatim, here's how it reads:

"Total load capacity:
With 5 occupants - 950 lbs

Towing Capacity:
For weight carrying hitch - 5000 lb

The combination of the gross trailer weight added to the total weight of the vehicle, occupants and cargo, must never exceed a total of the following:

For weight carrying hitch:
1GR-FE engine - 9600 LBS"

I also looked at the sticker insider the driver's side door. The GVWR rating for the 4Runner says "5580 lbs".

So taking all of the above into account, would my 4Runner be able to handle this type of load? Looking at the door label alone, I THINK I'm within the limits (barely), but again would appreciate your insights.

Thanks everyone!

I know that [MENTION=44862]macoyle[/MENTION] would tow his father-in-law's Olds 442 with his 4x4 V6 SE with no issues, so you should be fine.

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[LargeOrangeFont]

You will definately need some kind of electronic trailer brake controler. I got a Prodigy P2 and like it a lot. It is a gyroscopic controller, so based on movement it applies more or less brake. It is more expensive though.

The cheaper style is about $30-$50 bucks and is just time delay essentially.

They will both work ok but since I was near the weight limit of the truck like you are I got the more expensive style. That said even this Reese Controller for $24 shipped will work for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe...1436&sr=1-6&keywords=trailer+brake+controller

If you still have the trailer brake pigtail that came in the glovebox of your truck, you just need to buy the controller, and you'll just use the butt connectors that come in the controller kit. If you don't have it, you'll need to buy a harness adapter, or plug and play harness for the modern Toyota trucks, and the controller.

Amazon.com: TEKONSHA P2 PRODIGY BRAKE CONTROL + WIRING HARNESS FOR TOYOTA 4RUNNER, LANDCRUISER, SEQUOIA, TUNDRA TACOMA & LEXUS LX570 GX460 LX470 GX470. CONTROLLER + PLUG/PLAY WIRE KIT.: Automotive

That is both the controller and plug and play harness adapter so you just plug it in. I got my P2 controller on Ebay for $90 or so, and already had the wiring pigtail so I spliced together my own custom length harness.

Here is the install video to install basically any brake controller in a 4runner.. it is really easy.

Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2004 Toyota 4Runner Video | etrailer.com

I mounted my controller to the fuse box door so it was out of the way and completely removable. I made a very short (6 inch or so) harness. I ordered a new fuse box door and only put the brake controller in when I need it. I can remove the whole controller with wiring harness in about 5 seconds and pop in the clean fuse box door when I don't need the brake controller.

 

[john123drury]

Thanks again for the tips guys. Greatly appreciated!

 

[ebg18t]

I would also consider a tranny cooler. Keep the tranny out of OD too. Like [MENTION=77234]LargeOrangeFont[/MENTION] I run a Prodigy brake controller. I have the P3 installed.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Yes good point on the tranny cooler. You probably don't need one if you don't tow all the time though. I have mine sitting in the garage still. I need to get that installed.

 

[bergs]

Allowing the gearbox to stay in OD while towing isn't a problem. If you find it's consistently hunting then yes you run the risk of cooking the fluid or damaging the converter. Otherwise just let the vehicle do its thing.

 

[john123drury]

Yeah if i do this three times a year that would be a lot. So i will probably skip the tranny cooler. But the overdrive thing is something i kept seeing as well. Wasn't sure if i should make the trip in "4" gear or "D". Looks like the advice i am reading is all over the map. Lol

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I have the 4 speed but if the trans is hunting in and out of torque converter lockup in 4th I just put it in 3rd typically. On the highway it tows just fine in 4th unless going uphill, or into the wind.

 

[bergs]

Yeah if i do this three times a year that would be a lot. So i will probably skip the tranny cooler. But the overdrive thing is something i kept seeing as well. Wasn't sure if i should make the trip in "4" gear or "D". Looks like the advice i am reading is all over the map. Lol

It's not all over the map. People like to say things without feeling the need to corroborate their words or the words others have said to them. This is not a knock on anyone's comments in particular, rather it's an observation.

I'll let you in on a little secret--> The trick is to do whatever you can (within reason) to prevent the gearbox from shifting between gears constantly or locking and unlocking the torque converter constantly.

 

[ddnww]

ive been wondering this as well, but a bit heavier car and trailer. But will only be in city towing.

93 fleetwood brougham with about another 500-1000lb in custom work and accesories on a double axle trailer.

You guys think I'd be ok towing in city probably 10-20 miles each way.

 

[ebg18t]

Yeah if i do this three times a year that would be a lot. So i will probably skip the tranny cooler. But the overdrive thing is something i kept seeing as well. Wasn't sure if i should make the trip in "4" gear or "D". Looks like the advice i am reading is all over the map. Lol

Tranny cooler is $60. Tranny is $2500. It's cheap prevention given how warm a tranny can get when towing a heavy load. Just my 2 cents.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

ive been wondering this as well, but a bit heavier car and trailer. But will only be in city towing.

93 fleetwood brougham with about another 500-1000lb in custom work and accesories on a double axle trailer.

You guys think I'd be ok towing in city probably 10-20 miles each way.

You'll be fine towing around the city at the limit, or even a little more.

 

[ddnww]

You'll be fine towing around the city at the limit, or even a little more.

Well the car without the trailer is about 5500lbs

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Well the car without the trailer is about 5500lbs

You could swap your v6 hitch for the v8 hitch or aftermarket hitch. They are rated for 7000 lbs.

 

[macoyle]

I tow pretty often and I have a prodigy P3 controller, aux transcooler and a fan for the cooler for stop and go traffic. I also have a scanguage to monitor the trans temp. I can't stand going 60-65...so Ill do the 75-80mph and eat the gas. Of course thats in Texas with fairly flat land. If Im in a hill or mountain area...then its around 60-65 and I monitor the temps to avoid any issues. For the most part I leave it in 3rd gear to avoid shifting in and out of OD and that keeps the transmission temps around 175 instead of 200+. It will climb very quickly if you leave it in OD just FYI

Make sure your trailer has brakes, have it setup correctly and have plenty of time to stop. Just use common sense.

 

[macoyle]

I also have an OBA setup now with rear airbags to avoid the sagging but you dont need those if you dont tow often

 

[macoyle]

Also for newbies to towing or who dont know what truly will kill your transmission...its HEAT. The clutches and valve bodies will take the extra weight and dont drive like an idiot. If you are using any vehicle towards its max rated capacities, you really need to monitor the transmission temperature. Anything over 215 degrees is BAD NEWS. That will ruin the ATF and it will lose its proper lubrication properties and will cause several issues on the clutches, torque converter and that will cause excess wear, which will create more "shavings" in the fluid and along with the loss of lubrication properties of the fluid will end up ruining your transmission.

Most people dont really understand how an automatic transmission works and how it operates. Leaving the transmission in OD or having it constantly shift between gears will make the temperature rise because the torque converter is constantly "open" or "spinning" instead of being locked in order to keep you in the right power band of the engine. Also realize that for our specific 4.0, max torque is around the 4k rpm and thats where your drivetrain will be the most efficient for power but not exactly economy.

I strongly recommend the $150 investment in a scan gauge II or something similar in order to monitor your TFT (Transmission Fluid Temperature) so that you can prevent any issues and have a good awareness of whats really going on. It can also let you know if you are normally running hot, you should probably replace the fluid since over time, mileage, and use it has lost some of its original properties. If you are planning on depending on the "ATF HOT" light on your dash, thats a dummy light. Meaning by the time that light has illuminated the damage has already been done internally even though it may be acting fine for the time being. I understand most people may think that my setup is a bit overkill, but also realize that since I tow often, and normally at or slightly above the 5K limit (not recommended) I do everything to be conscious of what is happening.


***This is not a 100% way of preventing any transmission issues, but it IS a good way to monitor and prevent anything the best way possible while using the vehicle as intended***