those with AFR Gauges.

SIKHILUXSURF

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Where did you mount your wideband o2 sensors? i know it is said to be mounted before the cats and after the collectors merge but there isnt a whole lot of room to be honest. i just need some pictures for ideas.
 
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I'm a 3RZ guy, but mine is just upstream of the primary O2 sensor. Taking a look at the 5VZ headers either just before or adjacent to the factory sensor looks like the best bet assuming clearance is there. Pic below is from TW and a first gen Tacoma, but I'd assume positioning would be similar if not identical on a 4Runner, although I'd weld the wideband bung in a bit more towards the top of the pipe than in the photo to avoid fouling of the sensor.

 
I'm a 3RZ guy, but mine is just upstream of the primary O2 sensor. Taking a look at the 5VZ headers either just before or adjacent to the factory sensor looks like the best bet assuming clearance is there. Pic below is from TW and a first gen Tacoma, but I'd assume positioning would be similar if not identical on a 4Runner, although I'd weld the wideband bung in a bit more towards the top of the pipe than in the photo to avoid fouling of the sensor.


I wish I had that clearance to do that.
 
I had mine mounted between the transmission pan & the downpipe. I have headers on there now but I can get a photo tomorrow. I had a shop do it since it was way easier to weld up on a lift by a professional, rather than a hack-job by me.
 
I had mine mounted between the transmission pan & the downpipe. I have headers on there now but I can get a photo tomorrow. I had a shop do it since it was way easier to weld up on a lift by a professional, rather than a hack-job by me.

Perfect! There isn’t much room with the Doug thorleys so I am trying to figure it out to have this done ASAP.
 
Here's the photo and I'll explain what you are looking at:

gamefreakgc-albums-engine-performance+mods-picture49195-wideband-sensor-next-stock-o2-sensor.jpg


The left is the piping coming from the engine. That's the weld on flange that is coming from the headers. The guy who installed my headers used a slightly larger pipe, welded the flange on, then welded the pipe onto the existing stock downpipe. The O2 sensor on the right is the stock O2 in the stock location, where you can see the wideband and bung welded right before it but slightly offset so the two do not block one another. What you cannot see is the transmission pan (the camera was right up against it) so you pretty much want the sensor straight up and down or the wiring harness will not clear the transmission pan.
 
Reviving this for a quick question - where did folks run the wire to the sensor? Did you come down and out near the tranny or through the firewall and down/around?

I'm figuring I'll go down next to the shifter, but thought I'd ask...
 
Reviving this for a quick question - where did folks run the wire to the sensor? Did you come down and out near the tranny or through the firewall and down/around?

I'm figuring I'll go down next to the shifter, but thought I'd ask...

Bumping this old thread in hopes of an answer to this exact question. Also what's a good power source if I'm going to put an afr gauge near the cubby underneath the cigarette lighter, can I just tap into the 12 volt right there with the cigarette lighter?
 
Bumping this old thread in hopes of an answer to this exact question. Also what's a good power source if I'm going to put an afr gauge near the cubby underneath the cigarette lighter, can I just tap into the 12 volt right there with the cigarette lighter?

I ended up running it out the firewall and down/around. Wires were more than long enough. Fuse tap into the fuse box by the driver knee and good to go!
 
Yeah, through the firewall is the easiest, I ran mine through the ECU harness boot. Cables are nice and long.

I tapped a switched power source coming from the ignition wires, so it's only on when the key is on the "On" position. Didn't want any parasitic draws happening.
 
Yeah, through the firewall is the easiest, I ran mine through the ECU harness boot. Cables are nice and long.

I tapped a switched power source coming from the ignition wires, so it's only on when the key is on the "On" position. Didn't want any parasitic draws happening.
I'm installing my afr gauge and was curious if you could tell me which wires you tapped into? More specifically where the ignition wires are that you hooked it up to?

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I used a fuse tap into the ignition fuse in the fuse panel by the drivers left knee. On my 96 it was the very bottom right fuse
 
Isn't it even easier to just to read it off of OBD2 with a scangauge?

The AFR reading? From all my research, only certain years have a reading on afr and even on those years are not accurate enough to have any use. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you want to get an accurate AFR reading you need to install a wide-band kit, regardless of the year for 3rd gen 4runners.
 
The AFR reading? From all my research, only certain years have a reading on afr and even on those years are not accurate enough to have any use. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you want to get an accurate AFR reading you need to install a wide-band kit, regardless of the year for 3rd gen 4runners.

Are you running a supercharger with a different tune? Otherwise I'm not even sure why you would need an AFR reading in these 4runners...
 
Are you running a supercharger with a different tune? Otherwise I'm not even sure why you would need an AFR reading in these 4runners...

Yes , I'm running a supercharger with the 7th injector and a custom tune. In my situation it is needed. I'm mentioning it so that others reading dont spend a lot of time trying to get it to work when it wont be accurate. I assume if someone wanting to know the AFR values then they would want something accurate. Whether it's needed or not, that's up to whoever is asking. I agree though, for most applications it is not needed.
 
Isn't it even easier to just to read it off of OBD2 with a scangauge?

No, the ECU doesn't have fast or accurate AFR readings. Even the "Air/Fuel Ratio" sensor doesn't connect with piggyback ECU since it uses a 0-1V signal, where every other sensor operates on 0-5V.
 

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