Thoughts on Damaged Engine?

After getting a new battery and resetting the codes, I now only have these:

P0300, P0304, P0306.

Also, here's the coolant. The system held pressure just fine for several minutes with no loss, I think the PO just neglected the coolant and burnt it. No leaks. Compression test is next!

gamefreakgc-albums-miscellanious+photos-picture38111-coolant.jpeg
 
Compression numbers:

1. 130
3. 130
5. 140

Problem side:

2. 135
4. 130
6. 130

Spark plugs 4 and 6 (where the misfires were) came out black and wet looking, might be oil? But compression is near perfect. Spark plug wire on #6 is damaged. Also has wrong spark plugs. This may not be so bad after all...
 
Ok, I really need some trouble shooting here. Here's what I know:

1. Compression test was pretty close together (readings were low due to dry test and possible low reading gauge). 130-140 range.

2. Coolant pressure test did not reveal any leaks whatsoever.

3. Did a leak-down test (cold engine though, had some piston ring leakage) and they ALL came back at the same percentage, only a slight 5% variance. No exhaust valve or intake valve leaks. except for a slight intake leak on #1. I tested each cylinder twice for accuracy.

4. #4 and #6 plugs were a wet black color. This could be either oil or gas build-up on the plugs.

5. I looked at the intake valves on all 6 cylinders through the intake, they looked clean and had a good color. Not sure if that matters.

Is it safe to rule out engine or valve issues then? I should also note that another guy who almost bought the 4Runner before me thought it was a valve issue. I think it's safe to say it is not?
 
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Was you compression test done holding throttle wide open with all spark plugs removed? If not, retest doing the above and your numbers will be higher. It also helps to have a 8-10a battery charger on battery during test.

With new plugs in the misfiring cylinders do you still get the codes? Have you thought about replacing the ignition coils?
 
Have you done a block check? I once had a rough idle and poor power when I got some bad gas.

The engine block I think is good. When the engine was up and running, it did not have any rod knock or odd noises. Just shook bad like it had no compression in a couple of cylinders.

Was you compression test done holding throttle wide open with all spark plugs removed? If not, retest doing the above and your numbers will be higher. It also helps to have a 8-10a battery charger on battery during test.

With new plugs in the misfiring cylinders do you still get the codes? Have you thought about replacing the ignition coils?

Yes, throttle was open. Had just put a new battery so was cranking very strong.

Next step is to refresh the entire ignition and fuel system then! I'm kinda glad I don't have to take the heads off...
 
The block check/test is actually a test with a fluid that in mature that detects if the combustion is getting in with the coolant, this would detect a bad head gasket or crack block. Try YouTube the test, it's a simple test to do, if you have the necessary tools , I believe NAPA has it for about $60 or if you know someone who can help you perform the test
 
Sounds like what my engine was doing the couple of days before the headgasket really let go on me, one day I started it up and big ol clouds of white smoke billowed out. Before that it was just a rough idle and slight loss of power.
 
So fired it back up today after a full-tune up, fixing some oil leaks and a new water pump. Runs as smooth as butter!

Know what it was? Spark plugs and wires LOL.
 
No, it's the original engine still. All the tests came back negative for an issue, so I just trusted my gut and fixed it up.

Yeah, I just painted the wheels. Gonna fix a few trims pieces, change the fluids & wax it and then see if it sells!
 

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