Thoughts on getting yearly Rust Check sprayed on

hallcs

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Anyone using Rust Check service on their 4Runners? I had my sliverado 1500 sprayed each year because I parked it outside and it kept the rust at bay but the under carriage was always oily so if I had to work on anything it was messy. My 2021 Venture will be in the garage each night so i'm kinda torn on getting it on the 4runner. Anyone using Rust Check?
 
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If salt is not washed off it’s actually better to park the car outside.
It’s the above freezing temps (like in a garage) that accelerate the chemical reaction that leads to rust.
A salt coated car left parked at 10F won’t rust.
 
Like said above with salty slush warming up above freezing in garage overnight will let it rust faster. Use fluid film every year. Ive been using fluid film on my 2000 since 2013ish and it's probably the only way I still have a frame at this point. Don't just spray on, spray inside of things like doors, body panels, and frame rails Yes it makes a greasy mess when you have to work on it but sure beats having stuff rust apart or solid. But I also work on muddy and greasy equipment everyday so it don't bother me near as much lol.
 
I have it done as a service same place that does Line-X bed liners, the product is actually called Rust Check, it was orignally produced in Canada. Its like 250 first time and 100 each year after. Only issue is it drips for days after they are done, gotta put cardboard down on garage floor.
 
Sad but true. I had a 2009 Corolla that had < 100k miles on it. Rusted out underneath. Traded it on my 2020 4Runner. Will be getting mine sprayed yearly.
 
As messy as the oil based treatments (Krown, Rust Check, Waxoyl, etc.) are, I'd rather put up with that mess than the rusted out frame and frozen fasteners mess.
 
I moved from Texas to the Chicago area last year and was curious about the same. Was convinced when I saw a friend's 80-series up in WI that had been on fluid film for a long time and was holding up extremely well despite its age. It's actually amazing (for someone not from an area with lots of snow and road salt) how quickly and how bad rust can be in area with rough winters. Yes it sucks to work on the rig with that stuff on it, but it is the minimum that one can do if you plan on holding the vehicle for a long time. As mentioned earlier, make sure you apply/get-it applied properly.
 
If you live or travel where roads are salted in the winter (rock salt or brine), then Rust Check it. Or, if you just love your 4runner and want to keep it for a long time, then Rust Check it. Up here in Canada, Rust Check has a dripless formula which makes less of a mess on your driveway. Try to have the Rust Check applied in the summer or when the weather is hot so that the oil can creep into the seams more. Also, remove your spare tire and skid plates to get better spray coverage of the underside.
 
Have it Fluid Film’ed by a company that does Fluid Film as a business during the summer. Be sure its dry when you bring it in.

It’s not as messy as people here say it is. I really dont think twice about it when I’m working on my truck and it doesn’t smell bad either like people say it does for the first week.

I would be hugely pissed off if my 1 yo truck was rusting underneath so I am grateful I found out about Fluid Film here on this forum. I have virtually no (new) rust on my truck underneath and I can tell you the only place I had to use the spray can of FF can was the front of my lower control arms where it got washed off during the winter. It took longer to go get the can than it took to spray the area when I was doing an oil change.
 
I use Rust Check but
a. the guarantee is for rust through only. It does not cover surface rust. It would take a very long time for rust through if the vehicle is washed regularly.
b. it is much more expensive than factory rust proofing in the long run.
If I were to do it again, I would get the factory rust proofing (cost is always negotiable). Once the warranty is over, I would spray it every year by myself.
Did that to my 15 year old Jeep TJ. Sold it withou a speck of rust on the frame (had the windshield frame and front fenders replaced though).
 
I use Rust Check but
a. the guarantee is for rust through only. It does not cover surface rust. It would take a very long time for rust through if the vehicle is washed regularly.
b. it is much more expensive than factory rust proofing in the long run.
If I were to do it again, I would get the factory rust proofing (cost is always negotiable). Once the warranty is over, I would spray it every year by myself.
Did that to my 15 year old Jeep TJ. Sold it withou a speck of rust on the frame (had the windshield frame and front fenders replaced though).

There is no such thing as "factory rust proofing." Are you referring to what is offered by a dealership? That can be almost anything.
 
You are right. I should have said rust proofing by dealers.
My dealer offered a 10 year warranty. Initial cost $800 (oil base) plus $45 inspection and/or re-application every year from there on. Total cost for the 10 years will be $1205 (canadian not including taxes).
I have to pay Rust Check $135 on the yearly visit so the total cost for 10 years will be $1350.
The dealer option seems better isn't it?
 
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I’d rather pay the 130 each year. You might sell or trade the car in a few years in which case you save $.

Also, I’d rather pay the 130 each year for the next 10 years instead of 1200 all at once. It’s still cheaper. Your money is worth more now than it is 5 or ten years from now.

I use Krown on my 17 Wrangler. I’ve been very happy with the results.
 
You are right. I should have said rust proofing by dealers.
My dealer offered a 10 year warranty. Initial cost $800 (oil base) plus $45 inspection and/or re-application every year from there on. Total cost for the 10 years will be $1205 (canadian not including taxes).
I have to pay Rust Check $135 on the yearly visit so the total cost for 10 years will be $1350.
The dealer option seems better isn't it?

That makes more sense.

Depending on how well the product is applied and what product the dealer actually applies, maybe. I work at a dealership and trust me, they have very little to gain by your vehicle lasting a long time. I'd go with an outside professional (except for Ziebart) any day of the week.
 
I’d rather pay the 130 each year. You might sell or trade the car in a few years in which case you save $.

Also, I’d rather pay the 130 each year for the next 10 years instead of 1200 all at once. It’s still cheaper. Your money is worth more now than it is 5 or ten years from now.

I use Krown on my 17 Wrangler. I’ve been very happy with the results.
I hear what you are saying but
1. I only have to shell out $800 initially if I were to pay cash. I have the option of financing that together with the vehicle.
2. If I were to sell it in a few years (don't think I will) the dealer rustproofing could be attractive to protential buyers.
3. I presume the shop who does the work for Toyota should have a better knowledge on where to spray.
My 03 TJ had the very first rust proofing done at Krown and I watched where they sprayed and I did the same in subsequent years. I guess Krown didn't know the windshield frame and front fenders were prone to rust so they had to be replaced in a bit over 10 years although the rest of the jeep was rust free.
It's just my personal experience for OP's consideration. I could be wrong.
 
That makes more sense.

Depending on how well the product is applied and what product the dealer actually applies, maybe. I work at a dealership and trust me, they have very little to gain by your vehicle lasting a long time. I'd go with an outside professional (except for Ziebart) any day of the week.
Like I said to KarlwithaK, I thought rustproofing company who contracts with a specific dealer/brand would have better understanding on where is prone to rust. No?
Ziebart, Krown, Rust Check - thought they all offer similar oil. Why is Ziebart a problem?
 

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