Thoughts on purchasing a 1999 sport manual

[jminz]

The manual trans seems to be pretty rare so just wanted to get some thoughts on this possible purchase.
1999 v6 sport manual trans
212k miles
New rotors and pads
Clutch replaced in 2012
Excellent condition with extensive service history
Small rust spot on rear bumber
$4600

This will not be my DD. It will stay at the lake.

What should I look for when inspecting and would the miles be a concern?

 

[jminz]

Correction, appears to just be the SR5.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Pretty decent price depending on undercarriage rust. A spot on the bumper likely means there is a lot under the trunk.

And its definitely a sport a.k.a highlander.
Sport hood and color matched grille/bumper = sport.

 

[TheDurk]

Hood scoop and colored bumper says sport. Does it have an e-locker? Some did, most didn't.

Great truck. When was timing belt/water pump last done? If due (every 90k) it's a $1000 negotiating point. How's the rubber? Another $1000 negotiating point.

I have almost the same truck, but without the sport trim, at 170k. 212k would not bother me a bit for a low-use lake truck. I see mine going to 212k and well beyond.

The sticky covers all the inspection points, except you don't need to worry about strawberry milkshake, the bugaboo for slushbox buyers. Do check underneath for frame rust, especially at body mounts.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html

I can't comment on the price as I am not in the market, but I'd try to knock that down...well, just because I'm me.

 

[jminz]

Hood scoop and colored bumper says sport. Does it have an e-locker? Some did, most didn't.

Great truck. When was timing belt/water pump last done? If due (every 90k) it's a $1000 negotiating point. How's the rubber? Another $1000 negotiating point.

I have almost the same truck, but without the sport trim, at 170k. 212k would not bother me a bit for a low-use lake truck. I see mine going to 212k and well beyond.

The sticky covers all the inspection points, except you don't need to worry about strawberry milkshake, the bugaboo for slushbox buyers. Do check underneath for frame rust, especially at body mounts.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html

I can't comment on the price as I am not in the market, but I'd try to knock that down...well, just because I'm me.

It does not have the elocker. Waiting to hear back about water pump and TB. Tires have approx 28k on them so they have some life left. I haven't seen it in person yet. He's sending over pics of undercarriage but he says it's clean.

 

[jminz]

He just sent over undercarriage pics. Anything concerning?

 

[T4R2014]

Check the inner side of the LCA mounts. If they are solid, you're in the clear. If not, walk away or use it as a negotiating point and get it welded. The rest is surface rust which only scares guys out west or in the south that don't know what Liquid Wrench is.

 

[jminz]

I would also be using this rig to pull my boat in and out of water. Would the manual be an issue since the parking brakes are not the strongest asset on these runners. That was my experience with my 2000 anyway.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Check the inner side of the LCA mounts. If they are solid, you're in the clear. If not, walk away or use it as a negotiating point and get it welded. The rest is surface rust which only scares guys out west or in the south that don't know what Liquid Wrench is.

What is this "rust" thingy you speak of? ....:biggrin2:

 

[Unner]

I would also be using this rig to pull my boat in and out of water. Would the manual be an issue since the parking brakes are not the strongest asset on these runners. That was my experience with my 2000 anyway.

Properly adjusted the parking brake should work just fine. It's not the strongest, but it will hold the truck. Just park it in gear with the parking brake on like I do my manual vehicles and you shouldn't have an issue.

 

[TheDurk]

I would also be using this rig to pull my boat in and out of water. Would the manual be an issue since the parking brakes are not the strongest asset on these runners. That was my experience with my 2000 anyway.

I agree with [MENTION=71030]T4R2014[/MENTION]. Looks about like mine before I did its first underside rehab this summer (still in progress).

The e-brake will lock the wheels just fine if well-adjusted. Can't ask more than that. But it's a heavy truck in front and two locked rear wheels ain't gonna hold so well on a wet steep boat ramp regardless of transmission. Learn to shift and it won't be an issue. 4 wheel foot brakes and 4L traction and you'll do just fine. If you have to park on the ramp, leave in gear and learn the glories of the Clutch Cancel Switch. Turn the key and climb right out of there. Slushboxers can only envy. They can't start in gear.

In fact, if the shift from reverse to forward on the ramp is why you need the e-brake, just turn the motor off with your foot on the brake and clutch out. Shift into first, and release clutch. Let off foot brake. In 4L 1st gear, wheels are locked better than any e-brake could do. When you're ready, leave clutch alone, turn key to ON, hit Clutch Cancel, turn key to start, and drive away. You don't even need the stinkin' e-brake. Clutch Cancel is fun.

 

[jminz]

I agree with [MENTION=71030]T4R2014[/MENTION]. Looks about like mine before I did its first underside rehab this summer (still in progress).

The e-brake will lock the wheels just fine if well-adjusted. Can't ask more than that. But it's a heavy truck in front and two locked rear wheels ain't gonna hold so well on a wet steep boat ramp regardless of transmission. Learn to shift and it won't be an issue. 4 wheel foot brakes and 4L traction and you'll do just fine. If you have to park on the ramp, leave in gear and learn the glories of the Clutch Cancel Switch. Turn the key and climb right out of there. Slushboxers can only envy. They can't start in gear.

In fact, if the shift from reverse to forward on the ramp is why you need the e-brake, just turn the motor off with your foot on the brake and clutch out. Shift into first, and release clutch. Let off foot brake. In 4L 1st gear, wheels are locked better than any e-brake could do. When you're ready, leave clutch alone, turn key to ON, hit Clutch Cancel, turn key to start, and drive away. You don't even need the stinkin' e-brake. Clutch Cancel is fun.

How many miles are on your 99?

 

[TheDurk]

How many miles are on your 99?

170k

 

[Hesk11dog]

commenting on the frame pictures, It is always better to get underneath and check the inner frame walls. The surface rust is only at the weld seams and it looks like it is the factory frame paint which makes for an easier wire wheel and paint job underneath. pulling a boat up a wet concrete ramp can get slippy but 4-L grabs like a mother when you drop the clutch so if you know what you are doing, should have no problem walking the boat out. Price seems good, just do a good check over of everything listed in that first link and you should be fine. Cant beat a smooth shifting 5er

 

[jminz]

Additional pics

 

[zgensler31]

Sounds like a great buy. Read the sticky and go negotiate it out

 

[jminz]

No deal. He won't move on price.

 

[jeremyc74]

No deal. He won't move on price.

He doesn't have to. He'll get that for it with no problem. If you want the truck you better jump on it, because that isn't going to last long. A '99 Highlander is a pretty desirable truck, and if he advertised that nationally he could probably get another $1500 for it.

I wouldn't worry about the miles at all. I have 211k on mine, and just did a 2k mile road trip in it. I'd get in it and drive to CA without thinking twice.

 

[Scramble]

Buy it now! I have the 2.7 5speed & have no problems pulling my boat out of the lake.

 

[jminz]

He doesn't have to. He'll get that for it with no problem. If you want the truck you better jump on it, because that isn't going to last long. A '99 Highlander is a pretty desirable truck, and if he advertised that nationally he could probably get another $1500 for it.

I wouldn't worry about the miles at all. I have 211k on mine, and just did a 2k mile road trip in it. I'd get in it and drive to CA without thinking twice.

I know it's a pretty decent price. He has a buyer comin to get it saturday if I don't get it. It's due for a timing belt and water pump. Rear bumper also needs to be replaced. Bumper not so much of a big deal, but TB and WP I'd rather not mess with. It was last done at 136k.