Time Belt Pulley Mark Accuracy...

[Adamdmc]

Fear not folks. I set the crank at "0" and verified TDC and both cam sets set per the FSM by cam gear marks and pulley marks. Engine started and ran smoothly, for a few minutes at least. Now it smokes like a Freight Train, but that's a subject for a different thread. Bottom line is I must have screwed something up. I just wanted to post an update on the timing.

 

[brillo_76]

Fear not folks. I set the crank at "0" and verified TDC and both cam sets set per the FSM by cam gear marks and pulley marks. Engine started and ran smoothly, for a few minutes at least. Now it smokes like a Freight Train, but that's a subject for a different thread. Bottom line is I must have screwed something up. I just wanted to post an update on the timing.

Oh bummer. What color of smoke do we have now.. I guess will stay tuned on a different thread.

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[Adamdmc]

I've got a dark smoke coming both from the tail pipe and from the side of the engine. Oil is seeping out from between the head and the block. I haven't determined yet if it is a warped head or just a cheap head gasket. Right now, I suffer from Analysis Paralysis. You know, fear of making the wrong decision. My options are:

Try the donor head again with a new head gasket and add some RTV.

Take the donor and/or original head(s) to machine shop for repairs. Then install with new head gasket.

Buy a kit, after deciding which one to try, and do the thread repair myself on the original head (off the block) and reinstall with a new head gasket.

Spend the $450 for a re-manufactured head from Rock Auto and install that one with a new head gasket.


Money and time are equally important. I don't promise to strictly follow any advice given, but I would really like to hear opinions with sound reason.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Get the reman head from rockauto or have a shop go over your head and replace the valve stem seals. You can get the head gaskets and headbolts from YotaParts. I’ve used them for two head replacements and both times I was more than satisfied.

If you replace both heads they make a kit that comes with everything required. Including the knock harness.

Do not forget to run a tap through the head bolt holes in the block.


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[Adamdmc]

Other than just doing it because I'm already in there, is there more of a reason to go ahead and do the other head? I guess what I'm asking is, if there is any kind of mismatch in wear, will it cause a premature failure?

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[19963.4lsr5]

If you are planning on keeping it for a while do both heads and get it over with. Your already mostly there anyway. It’s just the headbolts. I had a spare set of heads so my head guy took care of the heads and then I ordered the head replacement kit with all the parts and seals needed.

You can keep the exhaust manifolds connected to the crossover pipe.


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[MaineRunna]

The outer ring of the crank pulley has probably rotated a little from the inner ring and that is why the marks are off. You will be using the marks on the actual crank sprocket when you install the new belt, not the pulley and plastic cover. Also you can fix that stripped out spark plug hole in 10 minutes with a spark plug thread insert without removing the head.

 

[Adamdmc]

Well, I finally got it all back together. Since I knew that everything was good to go with the exception of the spark plug threads, I decided to just get the insert put in and roll out. Now I have a new problem, a break cant be had. It has a bit of a slip. Not as regular as a cylinder missing every time, but more intermittent. It seems to smooth out while driving, so it's not a dealbreaker, just want to get it right. Any suggestions?

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[Adamdmc]

Sorry that I'm posting so many times, but this should be it for a while, at least. I have found the problem. Apparently some bonehead (me) didn't pay close enough attention when installing the spark plugs and one of the grounding tangs got buggered. Now that I've got that sorted out, she's purring like a kitten.

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[TheDurk]

Sorry that I'm posting so many times, but this should be it for a while, at least. I have found the problem. Apparently some bonehead (me) didn't pay close enough attention when installing the spark plugs and one of the grounding tangs got buggered. Now that I've got that sorted out, she's purring like a kitten.

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My tip for installing plugs: Use a 18" length of 3/8" fuel hose or similar instead of a wrench. Allows for a delicate touch and makes it virtually impossible to cross-thread or the barbarity pictured. Get the the thread started as far as you can, and then switch to your wrench to final tighten.Cross-threading in an aluminum head is easy to do with a plug wrench and the consequences are painful.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I have the magnetic spark plug sockets. It helps. Plus spin it in by hand until it gets tight and use the ratchet to crush the washer and you’re good to go. Doing it cold helps. Plus I usually add a little goop to the threads to help in removal even though NGK says not to do it because it effects the torque.


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