Time to pull the 4.7 out :-(

[alia176]

Well, i have had a head gasket leak for some time and been limping along by dumping in a bottle of the Head Gasket fix by Barr's. Two weeks ago, things went into catastrophic mode on a 100deg day driving home. The top radiator hose over pressurized, popped off and the engine shut down due to all kinds of pinging.

I had it towed home then stuck the inspection camera inside 1,3,5,7 and saw water puddles in 5, 7. #1 looked like steam cleaned. Only #3 was black and dirty. When I get home today, I'll inspect the passenger side of the block and see what it looks like inside the cylinders. I'll remove all spark plugs and crank the engine so that the standing water comes out of the cylinders. I'll also use compressed air to push out the water if needed. I need to figure out how to transfer the pics from my boroscope to my phone, but the pics don't look pretty :-(

I know I can do the head gasket job while the engine is in the vehicle, but I need to address the oil pan leaking issue so i might as well pull it and enjoy the process. The oil pan reseal project involves lifting the engine by few winches then laying under it for the actual work. I hate laying under my rigs to do anything!

If the heads are toast/cracked, I'll pivot as necessary. She has 450xxx miles so my expectations are low. It'll be what it'll be, as they say. I did the timing belt earlier this year, but everything else is still original. I have a great local engine rebuild shop who did awesome work.

I'm going to use this thread as a way to keep track of items, and ideas. I bought my daughter's 3.4 HG kit from this place so I'll get the same thing for the 4.7. Here's their genuine kit for $528 Head Set- Toyota Land Cruiser & Tundra V8 4.7L 2UZ Genuine Head Gasket Set (1998-2006) 04112-50400

they have a cheaper option, brand name is Stone Head Set- Toyota Land Cruiser & Tundra V8 4.7L 2UZ Head Gasket Set (1998-2006) JHS-10451-US for $323.

Thankfully i can reuse the timing kit. I'll need to create a list of the usual hoses, knock sensor harness, and whatever else that are needed.

Engine has DT shortys already so that's GTG.

I'm not sure what else is needed but lmk if you have ideas. The tranny and tcase are bone dry, but i'll replace the tranny input shaft seal. Engine always ran strong with a little bit of startup smoke due to the valve stem seals being worn.

I'll do a compression test before removing the heads get removed and see how the #s look.

Thanks.

 

[Runnin on E]

This one says genuine Toyota, you might be able to save a few $ I did not compare them with shipping so.....

04112-50400 Genuine Toyota Engine V Gasket Kit

 

[AuSeeker]

While you have it apart, I would rebuild the starter solenoid since the starter is buried under the intake and hard to R&R, very seldom do these starter motors die, when they stop working it's usually just the solenoid contacts.

 

[rdruss]

Please keep us posted on your progress and findings, Thanks.

 

[4R005]

With engine out and with lots of room I'll check conditions of :
1. that U joint of the intermediate steering shaft that connects to the input pinion shaft of steering rack. 2. replace UCA bushings unless they are still good after 450K miles. 3. High pressure line from PS pump to rack. That fitting connecting line to rack is a ***** to get to. 4. cooling lines from tranny to rad and from rad to aux heat exchanger ( in front of rad ). I lost my '05 tranny when rust eat thro line and I did not noticed. My bad.

 

[alia176]

great inputs, thank you gents. I'll address some of you in this reply.

all hoses in the power steering system have been replaced when the rack was rebuilt. Great call on the steering shaft UJs though. This is the perfect opportunity to address it. I'll stick it into my spreadsheet.

someone mentioned replacing the UCA bushings. As in upper control arm bushings? What has the UCAs from the suspension got to do with an engine pull and rebuild? Just busting your chops!

In any case, all suspension bushings are less than two years old so we're all good there. Also, I live in a rust free state so none of my hard pipes are corroded. It's a good mention though as the time would be now to do the job if needed.

Solid call on the starter solenoid rebuild. That's a no brainer. I'll stick it into my spreadsheet.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

You may have planned on this, but, the Cooling system might be suspect now that you've had stop leak in there for awhile. Thermostat, WP, water passages, and radiator could have restrictions built up.
EDIT: Toyota has a Summer parts sale going on in case you run into any problems.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Toyota has a Summer parts sale going on if you run into any problems.

 

[alia176]

You may have planned on this, but, the Cooling system might be suspect now that you've had stop leak in there for awhile. Thermostat, WP, water passages, and radiator could have restrictions built up.
EDIT: Toyota has a Summer parts sale going on in case you run into any problems.

Excellent feedback, thank you. You're 100% correct in that I need to flush out all of the coolant system in order to clean out that Gasket Fix muck. The radiator is less than one year old, and the timing belt+water pump is less than six months old. Still, I'll go above and beyond with flushing out that muck out of everything before reassembling.

My local Toy dealership has this gasket kit 04111-50180 for $290 and seems like that's the going rate with the online dealerships that I've hit so far, but i'll keep looking. This 04112-50400 kit is for Tundra/Landcruiser 4.7L which has extra stuff that I won't be needing.

Hopefully these p/ns help others when they're doing this fun job! YotaShop doesn't have my particular gasket kit so i'll get it from the dealership.

This weekend i'll pull the plug, and crank the engine until all water is out of the cylinders. Then i'll do a compression test (wet and dry), then start with taking shit apart for a big pull.

But first, I need to deal with the 80 that has a broken ring gear up front. Right now I'm driving Beastie in 2wd (part time conversion) for two weeks. Replacement 4.56 R&P from Cruiser Outfitters has arrived so i'll need to get going on that asap.

It never ends......

 

[alia176]

a quick update:

nothing has been done other than to pull the spark plugs, use a borescope to confirm the head gasket leak, then spray some fogging oil and reinstall the spark plugs. Summer is just too hard to wrench on this engine when I'm too busy camping in the 80 series!

I'll update when something useful happens in this project.

 

[alia176]

It's time for an update. I disconnected the entire tcase and transmission harness in prep for the engine extraction, and that's when I decided there's no f'ing way I'm going to go that route. Separating the engine from the trannny was going to be way too much effort for this guy. It's a tight fit and my body ain't gonna like that abuse. So, last weekend I reconnected the entire harness back up (15 min), then started on the lower oil pan resealing project.

So, i removed the leaky lower oil pan, resealed it up then reinstalled it. That was pretty easy. The only different I did was to apply the sealant on the upper oil pan vs on the lower steel oil pan. Maneuvering the lower oil pan with sealant on it was too much of a PITA for me so I went a different route. I did loosen the front diff axle tube so that it flopped around some and rested naturally at its lowest position. This allowed a tad bit more vertical room for the lower oil pan to be spun around, then tilted this way and that before coming out.

Tips:
- one of the diff mounting bolt is a 12mm hex head so i bought one from Amazon. I don't think you'll need to remove this allen socket nut but I did it for the hell of it. It mounts the rear end of the diff to a swivel mounting thing. Doing this made the front diff a tiny bit more floppy which allowed it to rest against the pass LCA. Up until this point, I had to use a large C clamp for woodworking to clamp the pass CV axle to the pass LCA. Every little bit helps as you know!

-Also, remove both diff and diff tube supporting arms. These are 21 mm bolt, and 19mm nut up top. Easy peasy with a rattle gun. The torque on this hardware is stupid high so prepare for that fun times.

-Another tip is this awesome "tube squeezer" tool. FIPG from Toyota and my RTV sealant come in a toothpaste like tube, and using this tool with one hand while applying the RTV on the underside of the engine was pretty sweet. FIPG from toyota comes with a winding tool like a can of sardines but that requires the use of two hands and it's tiring. This tool from Amazon is badass. Mine is Valco brand made in the USA.

Anyway, i'll start on pulling the heads off of the engine this weekend. The DT shorty headers will stay attached to the heads as they're too much of a PITA for me to remove those hardware. The downpipes have been disconnected from both headers.

 

[alia176]

Toyota valve regrind kit (basically a head gasket kit).

This is an extensive kit from Toyota and it has everything needed for this job. The beauty is that this mess of parts is just one part number! 04112-50180, cost $290. I made a spreadsheet of all parts needed for this project, and some of them are coming from Amayama in Japan. The little white metal washer I'm pointing to is my reminder to ask the Toyota parts counter guy. They don't think i need this washer for the 2uzfe project.

Third pic shows the crankshaft bolt, some exhaust studs, and the knock sensor harness.