Timing Belt and Water pump replacement

[bsle7]

I noticed there have been a lot of threads on timing belt replacement and water pumps lately. I actually just did mine this weekend, and learned a couple of things. Someone over on Yotatech did a great writeup on doing it on a 4.7 Tundra. My 2003 4.7 was essentially the same.
Tundra 4.7 (2uz) Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement - YotaTech Forums

A few things I would add. If you don't have a chain wrench and and don't want to buy one, You can just remove your radiator and any impact gun should fit in there with a short 22mm socket and the crank bolt comes right off. Also when you are putting the timing belt on if you put time timing belt tensioner in, but only tighten the bolts about halfway, you will have just enough slack to get the belt on the pulley, and you can then tighten the tensioner bolts the rest of the way.

 

[ninefinger]

Thanks for the link to the write up. My timing belt kit is arriving in the mail today and I was looking for a post with any gotch-ya's to look out for that aren't described in the manaul (ie coolant spewing from the throttle body heater hose). I probably won't tackle this job till September but I'll try and remember to post my experience when I'm done.

Mike

 

[ninefinger]

As promised here are my comments on my experience of doing the timing belt:

I needed a stronger impact gun to loosen the crank bolt - my 250ft-lb rated gun wouldn't do it. I ended up getting one rated at 500ft-lbs (probably optimistic - Stanley FatMax) but it did the job.

The A/C compressor doesn't need to come off at all (contrary to the Factory manual) - you only need to remove the 2 front bolts - leave the rear one in place (the 2 in front attach to parts that need to come off - ie the fan bracket).

I removed the radiator 1) to access the crank bolt with the impact gun and 2) to give me more working space. (the coolant was drained already so not much extra effort there)

Now for comments on the condition of components (I did this at ~70000mile / 112000km):
A) timing belt - no cracking of the rubber but a very minor amount of the reinforcing cord is starting to fray on the edge
B) tensioner pulley - this bearing is dry (no grease left in it) and it rattles just a little bit. Definitely was on its way south, could have lasted alot longer or failed really quickly. Also has rust and metalic dust around it.
C) Idler pulley - looks and feels good (still has grease in it - light hydraulic / seal drag)
D) Water Pump - bearing is smooth, has small trace of dried coolant in the weep hole, probably was ok to leave but I had the new one anyway.

All in all I'm glad I did this job now versus next year, based on my findings.

Mike

 

[762x51]

Thanks for the info guys, I am getting ready to tackle this job in the next few weeks and the pointers will defiantly help out. :thanks: